Stanley

@Mopar1973Man Sounds like my issue.... ^^ Then I found this.... kinda my situation to an extent.

Well good news that's bad news. I got to doing ALOT of research and was finding info on people putting keyway in backwards. I have no idea how that would affect timing but..... All the keyway stuff I've ever messed with personally and at John Deere position didn't matter. So I stayed late at work got down to the keyway and borrowed my buddies bore scope. Sure as **** mine is in backwards, arrow out towards cover. So I am seriously hoping this clears everything up that I been dealing with. Gonna swap the key around tomorrow or this weekend. Gonna get an extra key just in case (044)... Can someone school me on how this positioning affects timing? Also now that I know ideally don't want to drive it like this but I prolly will have too, think I'll be ok???

Would yall run this stuff from wally world?

As in popping noise or pop pressures? The thing is it could be any fuel component? I don't wanna buy another vp44 especially a dragon flow. I could have it tested at Northeast Diesel but the down time...... My boss thinks the advance spring in vpp44 could be weak and cause the surge or "lope"... I have that black to grayish smoke - no white. And that raspy popping sound in the video. I thought about pulling injectors (6×18) and having my friend at Northeast Diesel check them out. Again the down time but alot less than vp44 testing. Dont know what to do and I'm really confused on the lope and grey smoke. Especially since I'm dealing with bigger (go fast) parts. Different than all the stuff I do at John Deere 🤪

Still haven't been able to use the cummins I sight yet, probably will have to source some connections though, not sure what all cables we have... I'm kinda surprised that not many people chimed in on my videos... Grey smoke not completely black and popping has me concerned. I have read some have clocked the vp44 off one tooth, I have very good faith did not do that but then again no one is perfect... I'd lay money on it though🤣 Might need a bore scope to check gears in the case...

Man this is some in depth stuff here!!! Gosh I wish I knew all this; or what you were even talking about

I'm totally down to get one! I just need to be smart and find out if I have a problem in any fuel component first just in case I have to replace said item(s). For all I know it could just be lean on fuel or timing or pop pressures... finding those out would make me a happy camper. I want to use my AC...😁 I'm also having grey smoke 🚬 too. Not black like it should be I'm gonna see about hooking up the Cummins Insight tomorrow and see what I can monitor. If I get something good I'll post it up.

I think I can agree on the quad from what I've read. I just would like to maybe get some insight on whats going on with my fueling and or timing currently, maybe give me clues on what I got going on in there since I have the world's of unknown going on lol.

God I want to figure this crap out. I have access to Cummins Insight at work. Never played with it/used it. Would this be helpful to use? What parameters can be monitored?

That's a decent jump in psi... I haven't dealt with or read much on the quad, I'll have to start though lol. I been trying to find the original owner to ask if in fact that's what's in it. Did you notice the raspy popping sound from the exhaust when I was getting on it? I have 5" exhaust, that's really not known to be raspy so I was thinking it could be something else, maybe related to fueling or timing, maybe as a clue? I wish I knew someone I could borrow a tuner (before I bought one) to check what added fuel/timing would do.....

Yes that clutch was a pita to drive... got rid of that and the comp box thinking that would help streetabilitly and mpg, but no I still get 11 mpg and of course the issues at hand. It did run like a bandit with the comp box... I just can't remember if I had this issue with it or not...I always thought the comp box did both aggressive timing and fueling depending on which setting? I don't have anything else on it beside what I got listed. I was seriously thinking about another comp box or something similar to really do some good tests with different parameters.

@Silverwolf2691 "Unknown fuel components" guy I bought it from years ago said this is what is in it... he gave me a set of injectors, lines, brand new tubes, and old valve springs as "spares/ take offs". Which all this leads me to believe it's all true but again I have no receipts on those items. It did have a sintered iron dual disc before I took it out, those are for some serious power.... it all adds up but I just can't be certain. Idk if it adds any thing to the mix- he did have a edge comp box hot on it too. I since took it off and sold it. Kinda odd that was on there cause I believe the dragon flow etc have timing built in all ready. Could it be that I still need timing added into the equation? I knew it would be hard to get it to clean up if any, but I figured showing it would atleast give insight on what I have or don't along with the "lope" It's as soon as you take any load off of engine pretty much it does that in the video. Really bad with AC and very small w/o AC. With ac on it will work its way from what's in the video to a much broader range and eventually kill it. Which is why I can't drive with my ac on in the hot weather, cause that's dangerous lol...

@Great work! Amazon states it doesn't fit Alot of things don't usually fit but WORK. Just thought it was kinda funny. Kind of a bump here, Hopefully the videos will show what I'm dealing with and trying to figure out. A reputable diesel shop which my boss used to work at, he called and asked, says it prolly my advancement springs weak and its basically sliding back and forth... Still trying to narrow down a pinion seal 🦭 Gonna order a track bar from DOR and send in my parts trucks steering gear 98'-1500 to @Blue-Top Steering to get rebuilt. I think I'll like the quicker ratio in town. Then my entire front end will be redone (all DOR) with the blue top. Not as important but I got a plastic welder, trying to figure out how to reattach my arm rest panel to door panel. Proving to be a bit difficult to make a stud on arm rest then melt back to door panel.

Lucky guy 🙂 We'd I received an air filter.... just part of order lol. And an email stating such finally... I wish someone would call me, I tried pretty hard to get them to. with no luck

This is ran with A.C. on max. It will kill itself sometimes, depends on what's going on really, but kinda random Does the same thing with it off but a *mini-mini version... Hopefully yall can hear the lope in this, I could on my phone... just a little test drive down a side road near the house. I gave it some throttle to show how much it smokes, due to unknown fuel system parts.... This one shows the tach bouncing, sorry for the camera moving around I had it set on the column which looked like it'd be smooth but not lol. What is it???? Pop pressures? Pump advance worn out just moving around? Pump bad? Controller? Also waiting on someone to cough up a rear sway bar mount 🤣🤣 & pinion seal ideas 😉

@Stubilly I just replaced my clockspring, didn't really pay close attention to the horn stuff, I was replacing due to intermittent wiper issue and no cruise. I only remember 3 connections, L&R cruise and airbag. I was in a hurry so I that's maybe why I don't remember a (horn wire) I thought I took some pics but I guess I deleted them after the job. Also had CTM issue - power locks stopped working, unplugged original checked terminals and swapped in another no change plugged old one back in replaced fuse and it worked. I've seen a couple instances where this has worked for others on certain issues, it just being a bad connection....

I would say horn pad, when going together did you force anything aside from just pinching the wire(s) with the air bag assembly? Horn pad is just connecting/completing the circuit of the beep beep. I could be wrong but I think it's just connecting to ground to complete the circuit. Atleast that's how the older trucks I've messed are operated - I have yet to pull a horn pad in mine yet so... So option A horn pad is out, option B you have pinch more than what you see and you are grounding out somewhere near your mistake. Maybe someone else here has messed with a horn pad and can assist, if I'm incorrect

I forgot to mention yesterday that I also found my all my anti sway bar bushing retainers except one rear one Maybe I'll go through everything in the shop for a third time All else fails, anyone have some spare rear anti sway bar bushing mounts?

Prolly would be a good idea, save some headaches for sure.

Well little update: Still no gopro video of my issues due to wind issues. So with some research and amazon-ing I found a "wind sock" for the gopro that supposed to help said issue. It's on now just gotta record something. I'm thinking it's fuel related.... something like the advancement spring worn out and just moving back and forth willy nilly. Also can't rule out injectors/pop pressures. Kinda sucks cause this is something I'd just have to guess and throw parts at to fix... More to come on this I'd say.... Interior is still coming along, got a plastic welder and gonna try and see if I can weld some plastic "rivets" back where the original ones were on the door panel arm rests. Since they were removed for reupholstery. I've tried some and it's not progressing well So I also still need to figure out what seal for my pinion I need... apparently there's like 50 different kinds

I can 2nd DAP, good people and good service! I would vouch for LMC and Genos too.

No that's just what one guy did to do his... totally doable without that craziness. Very true! I forgot to add that in, good catch, great info!

@sleezy it's not hard at all. Just take your time and be gentle, it's still all plastic lol. By taking the ducting off and securing it to the dash before install is almost a must, I'd say. I actually positioned my steering wheel where it would be flat against the seat and sort of wedged it down further in front of the seat to get what ever room I could. Remember where all your little screws go so you don't have any rattles etc... There's a whole bunch of those little beesterdz...

I too will be on the ball joint hunt soon and replacing leaking axle seal. I'll be lurking... I mean watching... for these choices...

I can't see pics either. I assume your talking about the little plastic deal on the shifter ball end that seats into the shifting fork? If I'm picking up what your puttin down....