dave110

Mine is a FORD Ranger not a FREE Ranger.

As long as he fills me with beer and my truck with $2.39 diesel we're good. Maybe a chicken leg every now and then for good measure.

I understand what you're saying and have seen windshields go in. This is actually on my 93 Ranger but I posted here because a windshield is a windshield. Trouble is there was a rust spot in the cowl where the windshield mounts that was patched by the PO prior to the new windshield install and its not a perfect fit. I did the investigating I can see the gap where it is not fit right and leaking in. At this point I just need something to plug and seal the gap.

Can I move down there and stay in your make shift garage?

Just went down a little. Cheapest right now is $3.09. Our PA fuel tax is $.065 alone. But then we have such nice roads and bridges to show for it OOOps. I was a little off. Appears it went up again in 2020. We're now the highest in the nation for diesel at $.0741

Didn't know ARCO was still around. They went from ARCO to Atlantic here back in the early 80's I believe and then Atlantic went away too. Seeing all these $2.XX diesel prices makes me sad

So what do you recommend to fix a leaky windshield? Everyone says avoid silicone but all the available fixes I find, Permatex, JB Weld, etc. are silicone. If you have any suggestions where to buy it would also be helpful.

That's what I'd do. Sure sounds like an air leak to me. I'd suspect the manual LP or the draw staw. Tough to say which one. Clear hose trick would tell you if there's air in the lines.

Sorry to hear. I watched both my parents go similar to this way. You're both in my prayers.

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Codes are usually of little help with a dying VP. They'll tell you when it has died, or in the case of the 216 code it could go for years before quitting. Check BlueChips VP44 diagnostic page for some good reading if you have not done so.

I've been thinking about that ever since a member on here who seemed to be in the know swore up and down that these BHAF's we run are nothing more than a pre-filter in industrial applications. Thought about changing but at the rate I put miles on my truck will be rusted out or I'll be rusted out long before I reach 1/2 the mileage @dripley has on so I guess I'll leave it.

I was wondering how you edit other posters posts...........

Not once I got rid of that useless filter 'never' minder.

If you ground the middle pin on the NSS does it work? If so the switch would be bad if not it's something else.

Sorry for the confusion. I'll stop now

Mine in my PSD never moved even with a clogged filter. I'll never use/trust one of those gimmicks.

Do you need to throw your pants on the floor when you install a concrete counter?

The inside one isn't the problem for me. Don't even need to bend the chuck. It's the outside one that needs an extension so the chuck doesn't hit the wheel before it reaches the stem. I bent my chuck like that and still couldn't make it reach. Might try again some day if my extensions ever fail.

I'd say that path leads to Chick-Fil-B

Around here a Cummins seems to be worth at least 6k in any condition. Mileage not important. 5 speed add 4k. Chrome stacks add 1.5k. Big C sticker in the rear window add 500 bucks. Tow mirrors add 750. You get the idea.

Back when I was seriously contemplating a manual swap and reading all the threads I could on it I remember some guys getting away with the Auto PCM and either jumping or grounding a wire on the NSS to get the truck to run and then tucking the plug up and away. I think some even pulled the leads back up to the PCM and made the connection up there. It's too long ago and I just don't remember exactly. There's a thread or 2 pinned over on CF about manual swaps. Might be able to find it there. However if your LP doesn't run I'd suspect something else. Here we go. This is taken from a swap thread on CF. I have not tried it myself. Now for the wiring to make it all work. The only plug needed is the Neutral safety switch off the auto tranny. It is a 3-wire plug. The middle wire on the plug will have to be run up through the fire wall and hooks to the clutch safety switch. The CSS has two wires on it, you can attach to either one of them, and then take the other one and ground it on the firewall. Now for the other two wires on the Neutral SS, These are for your reverse lights. They go to the only plug on the nv4500 transmission. That's all the wiring it takes.

Should be easy enough to jump the NSS and see if that's the culprit I would think.

Sounds to me like the connection between the 'run' spot on the key switch and ECM is broken or disconnected somehow. That would explain the no LP run and the 1689 code. The ECM is not being told to boot. There's wiring maps here somewhere. Maybe take a look and start tracing out some wires That plug you show a pic. of. Where is that at? Looks like under the dash but not sure.Wish I could help more.

I enjoy seeing the updates. You do nice work, very nice.