LorenS

It often just refuses to connect via Bluetooth. My phone, tablet, whichever can see it, not connect. Close app, try again. Go into menu and select "Connect to Adrenaline" or whatever it says - fail. Turn off Bluetooth and turn back on - fail. 30 minutes later driving down the road try again - fail. Randomness occurs and suddenly it's connecting. It makes the Valet mode for theft deterrence a stupid choice, because YOU may be stuck until you disconnect the Quad to drive home. The unit has you running wires all over Gods green acre under the hood, not sure why there can't be one more run into the cab for a hardwire connection.

I went to 27 decimal places to see, but of course have no idea if it would actually act on that or just round off to nearest integer.

You can find a broken Adrenaline, or two tin cans and a pile of dog crap, and it'll be just about as good. I try to be very optimistic about it on this forum, but the connection issues about have me at the end of my rope. It's a good thing today it was under the hood and not riding on my dashboard, or it would be somewhere along the interstate this evening.

So far it's worked well for me on factory reman injectors (~40-50k miles on them). However, I have not tapped the wire or even turned the CANbus up high enough to cause any haze. It's so much more responsive when I have the CANbus on, compared to not but right now am still playing with timing on the "super secret" mode to find the best timing addition for fuel mileage. Next tank I may turn it back up to level 3 so I can enjoy myself for a few hundred miles, then go back to Economy mode. That's what I've got. I put a screw-on filter/screen ahead of the DDRP after removing the in-tank sock. I run 3/8" fuel lines, except it's 1/2" from the filter to the VP44. WOT still in the 14-15 PSI range and once I back off again it's back up around 18-20, measured at the VP44 inlet.

This may be true at low engine load. If you start at 16 and then set your Low PSI Timing Reduct (LPTR) to something reasonable, then above the Light Throttle Load Limit the Light Throttle Timing Advance (Cruise timing) is not used, and it will back the timing down below 16. If you stab the throttle at 0 PSI and have the LPTR set to 5*, then I would think you'd be down to around 11 degrees, and as boost is built the timing will again advance.

The Adrenaline will certainly get you by until you acquire dedicated gauges, and yes you will need an old phone or tablet. I like the phone method because I have a phone holder that mounts to my old GPS mount, so it can ride on the dashboard and be plugged in all the time. I have basically a stock truck and like the Adrenaline. When I turn up the CANbus (not tapping the wire) a little it's a noticeable improvement in performance, especially while towing. I've never turned up the fuel very much and am still very happy with it. No smoke to speak of, maybe just when I stab the go pedal.

But the cruise timing is set to Zero to get this "secret" tune to work.

I assure you it still works. I have my Level 1 set to 100% so it's basically stock. When I flip back and forth on smooth ground between Level 1 and 2 I can see the timing jump to what is expected. Now, it may be that Adrenaline ignores the 1500, 2000, etc. settings and just scales exactly like I have it set. But entering settings above 0 for those RPM levels doesn't disable the tune. My truck would run like crap if it only had 4⁰ of timing at 2k RPM! Drive over 400 miles today, part of it at 80 MPH and still managed 18 MPG. And that's with a big fuel leak from who knows where. Or whereS, plural. I believe when they say "RPM Timing Max", they mean this whole screen, not just the "Max" RPM slider, way over on the right.

Another benefit to the rather expensive Adrenaline is the number of gauges you can display. Things like IAT, fuel temp, timing, ECT, engine load, TPS position, and on and on. Plus the ability to data log, for diagnostic purposes.

This tank of fuel I'm running the Quadzilla in the "super secret" mode where it only adds timing to what the ECM is commanding, and it's based on RPM range (1500, 2000, 2500, etc.) I believe if you set 1500 to 2⁰ and 2000 to 4⁰, it would add around 3⁰ at 1750 RPM; probably not a linear function. So far, doing my normal commute the mileage this tank is far better than usual. This "tune" also allows for the CANbus feature, so if you get bigger injectors you can get them to fire a shorter pulse than stock at low PSI, and as boost builds let them fire a longer percentage of stock. This is the easiest way to "tune" and see some real benefits using the Adrenaline, without much worry about being a tuning wizard. EDIT: I'm in level 2, so CANbus fueling doesn't play a part in my tuning, just timing.

I think the trick to avoiding "other people's problems" is just patience, but that's way easier to do where I am versus a sparsely populated region. Of course, also more competition for the good buys. I bought a used Deere 2150 a couple of years back, it's in the 45-50HP range. The tach didn't work right, but was otherwise very well taken care of, and was a trade-in unit for someone that just wanted more modern bells and whistles (AKA more stuff to break). My dad's 5210 has the cab with radio and A/C, bucket, front wheel assist, the Cadillac to us! Bought used, but he was selective. It, too, was someone that just wanted bigger or fancier. The old 2040 is like a 1978 model, I think. Babied its whole life, but lots of hours. The older two were made in Mannheim, Germany, the 5210 in Augusta, Georgia. All about the same size tractor. I worked at a Kubota dealership one summer, and I own a little 24 HP version that I bought cheap BECAUSE it was someone else's problem - dude didn't know his glow plugs weren't wired up! Of course, then it constantly overheats so I put on a new water pump and have radiator flushed, then pull the head and find it's trash. I'm very open to replacing it before it breaks hard; at this point I can sell it and still make a decent profit. Parts are just stupid expensive and limited aftermarket support.

I have pretty decent self control, but probably not that good!

I wonder if it's just a matter of taking a 4WD version and chopping off a couple inches. Would be a different part number, but basically the same thing. Certainly worth asking the suppliers!

With something like this, the need to have super accurate holes or brazing is eliminated. Surely the list price is some kind of fantasy, and the parts when bought by the bag would be less than $10 apiece, maybe closer to $5 each. https://midlandindustries.com/product.php?cat=Brass+Fittings&section=DOT+Composite+Body+Push-In&shape=&master=DOT+Composite+Style+Push-In+Female+Bulkhead+Connector Just learned they are about 8 miles from where I work. I will see if our company has an account with them so I can get an even better cash price. Anyone can run a can of spray paint, so I wouldn't even worry about that! Or charge $5 extra for painting, just for the hassle and dealing with people who would think it should have a Concourse D'Elegance quality of paint application. I assumed you could build them, but didn't figure you'd want to take the time to do so. Someone already in a production space can just whip things out a lot faster - no setting up, etc. The tools are always set up!

If you can find someone to make the little bracket like you have for your pressure sensors, that would be a great addition to the Store! Or have Vulcan make a kit, and send you a royalty fee for each kit sold. Tramec-Sloan makes a bulkhead fitting that would be AWESOME for this application, but trying to find a place where I can buy them has thus far proved to be a fool's errand. The part number is S766PMT-4-2. Sell that, a few feet of 1/4" airbrake hose (I assume it would coil up in a shipping envelope?), and a normal straight male connector (such as S768PMT-4-2) for the engine end, and a bracket all in one kit would make it easy to click "Add to Cart"!

If Jason's.json file was designed around stock injectors, that could be the problem. To what level do you have the Adrenaline set? The tuning guide in the articles section is a good place to start. You may also need to adjust the CANbus fueling "equalizer". Bigger injectors mean you likely need to start below 100%; I'm no expert on the matter, but would try working from 90% at 0 PSI, and go up 1-2% points per PSI to see if it clears up the smoke.

I'd say if you have a computer handy to see if a search through the parts list on this site shows a difference between 2WD vs. 4WD. I'd help right now, but it's hard for me to read it on my phone, and it's a big file to download!

Until I have an (operational...) spare vehicle, the wire won't be tapped! I don't have head studs, and no real idea how the transmission was last rebuilt - I'm guessing stock, as it didn't even have the common in-frame upgrades like solenoids, pistons, and "lube in Park" valves. It has those now!

For $7 plus shipping I think I'd just get one coming, just in case it is the right one. https://www.industrialinjection.com/product/woodruff-key-for-vp44-shaft-036/ EDIT: Good thing you checked before just buying an 036!

@Mopar1973Man @Me78569 I was rereading the Adrenaline tuning guide and was reminded of the "Secret" programming for setting all Timing parameters to 0 and running "Stock Plus" timing. I want to give this a try just to say I did and satisfy my curiosity. What is a good starting point for this? Should it look like the below? Is it far too conservative? 1500 2* 2000 4* 2500 5* 3000 6* Max 6* Does CANbus fueling still work with this setup? Stock head bolts, factory reman injectors, new turbo is HE351W.

I can hardly wait! And neither can the transmission salesman, I'm guessing...

The warning came on while I was still on the throttle. I'll head to lunch in a bit and hopefully will remember to do a little data log when I come back (when engine is all warmed up). Boy do I feel dumb, I guess my truck never hit 25 PSI before I installed the new turbo!

Driving in to work this morning I mashed the go pedal and let her run to test the new tune. The yellow warning band showed up, so I backed off. I 'swiped up' so I could see some of the other data, and ran again. But, can't watch the tiny numbers and drive, too! Is there a quick way to figure out which parameter is throwing the warning without using Data Collection? Just swap around what gauges are shown? Shouldn't have been EGT, and "boost" was less than 25 PSI (as reported by MAP sensor - no standalone gauge yet). Quad doesn't see lift pump, and pressure was good anyway.

Mosquitoes buzzing around yet? Our ticks are out in force already, but it was 70 this weekend.

Good question! I don't know, either. Depending on what they cost, maybe buy several different ones and try them? Lot of work but cheaper than a pump! Looks like it should be on the tag. https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/vp44-woodruff-key-identification.365023/