LorenS

Most Goggle pictures of that part number, the studs certainly look like bolts. I found one photo I could zoom in and see they must be studs. They REALLY look like bolts!

With at least 100k miles on the injectors it would be a fine time to change them; if you've never set the valve lash that would be a good time to do so.

Ha ha ha! No, it sure won't.

You guys must have had better doctors than me. I lost 15 pounds after my knee surgery. Couldn't sleep, didn't want to eat. Meds didn't help, thankfully, as I know now they were opioids. Took a long time to get back to normal sleep (a cheap beer or two every evening helped with the pain), and I walked with an obvious limp for several years. Hard to trust a leg with any real weight when it has a tendency to randomly pop out of gear.

Nope. Just can't figure out why a fellow needs an automatic to downshift locked up, so would replace it with a manual transmission which ALSO won't downshift locked up. I'm fairly ignorant on the general subject so trying to understand.

I knew that'd be a cool trick, so why would we want an automatic to do essentially the same thing? Or am I once again wildly mistaken on what is being described?

I know those Gear Vendors units are expensive, but if I towed more often (but not real heavy) I'd fork over the money. The 0.69 overdrive is just ridiculous, as is cruising down the interstate in 3rd (direct). It looks like the upgraded gear train is only required for 3-2nd downshifts while locked up. Is that really that important? Seems reasonable to me that the torque converter could unlock (as commanded by the PacBrake) while the downshift happens, then the both the PacBrake and converter engage. Is it different than using the clutch on a stick shift? Do guys downshift under load without using the clutch?!

Dynamic's valve body sales page: https://dynamictransparts.com/dynamic-hd-towing-valve-body I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if this clears up any confusion 😆 Threadzy seems to have it figured out for autos.

I know Banks has a means of allowing use of an exhaust brake with an auto by holding line pressure. If I ever get to that point I'm going to contact @Dynamic and get his input - and likely converter and valve body, if not a complete transmission.

Here's the original thread for Blueox01's install:

The HE351Ws appear to be in stock, but we participated in the pre-sale so we get to wait for the slow boat from China.

@dripleyand I are expecting HE351W turbos from Benz Force one of these days, following in the trail blazed by @Blueox01. It does require a tiny bit more work in that you have to clock the turbo and tweak the wastegate actuator arm. Allows use of a future exhaust brake. https://www.benzforce.com/products/new-genuine-holset-he351w-4043980-4043982-he351

Perhaps a silly question, does the high idle ever enable due to extended idling when it's warm? Such as for A/C purposes. Reading through the TSB it seems it would not.

IAT can't drop below 80F if it never rises above 80F to begin with. Hence the bypass acting like the thermostat in the block. My commute to work is over 20 miles of interstate and my IAT doesn't reach 80 F. 37 degrees this morning, winter grille blockers, and a political sign to block off half of intercooler/radiator. Fuel temp around 50 - 60 F. Last couple of tanks have been below 17 MPG.

😂

Me, neither. But still seems like a good idea. If I did that, I wouldn't need a thermostat for my coolant, right? Just pull over every several miles and tweak the cardboard! I like the plastic political signs. "Vote for Harry Wanker". They're waterproof and small enough to not block the entire radiator. Can leave in there until it's about 50 degrees. It doesn't block my oil cooler. I live in KC, not Duluth, MN nor South Padre, TX so 1/2 coverage is good. Towing would be another matter.

Warmer IAT at low loads and cold days. Even with my winter front and a 30 mile interstate commute my IAT doesn't surpass 80 degrees. First few years had no intercooler, great mileage. My 2nd Gen has intercooler, but not great mileage. Essentially this is what the thermostat in the engine does, or the thermostatic control for oil coolers. If the fluid isn't too hot, it isn't sent to the cooler.

100's of Millions of carburetors and/or throttle bodies are offended.

I think Dripley would know all about that.

Just when I think I've come up with a logical solution to what's not really a problem, I see that Robert Bosch's company has beat me to it. http://www.dieselmechanic.info/common-rail/bosch-common-rail-system-intercooler-bypass.html However, I think mine would be operated by a choke cable, and maybe later an additional IAT sensor and a stepper motor.

"The inhibitory effect of ANA on the epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR) levels expressed on the EGF-stimulated prostatic cancer cells LNCaP, DU145, and PC3 was estimated by ELISA tests." Like a comedic line from a Saturday Night Live skit! Except it's from the first link you posted above.

Coupled with the Axel Foley "banana in the tailpipe" trick, it'd be great! Does anyone make a "manual choke" for our exhausts? That'd do the truck, too. Or a tailpipe diverter that's to a restrictive muffler, for example.

I guess it did, all the screws are in. All I really remember is that it didn't get removed from the truck and replaced the heater core over the dash, from the passenger seat. Of course the core was replaced after busting out the test of the broken dash and before the new went in!

I put the Geno's version in my truck. I did not remove complete dash nor the seats. Just laid the column down, then the dash rolled forward.

That would certainly be a deal breaker!