LorenS

I sure didn't to get it out - like I said, it about fell on the floor! Didn't use one for reinstall, but probably should have. If by myself it would have been necessary. I bought a cheap spreader off of Amazon but forgot to grab it when I went to my dad's to use the lift.

I replaced all the carrier guts today. As I removed the bearing caps the whole assembly would've fallen on the floor - or my feet - if it hadn't been for the rear sway bar! So, she got new carrier bearings today, too. All in all pretty simple. Would've been fast, but those bearings are probably best PULLED off, versus pushed off with a press. Getting everything blocked up correctly was the time consuming part. And dumping in 4 qts of Amsoil 75W-110 was an exercise in patience, as well. Next time I hope to add an auxillary fill plug, and a sight glass in the factory fill hole.

I'm personally a zerk guy, even the lower ball joints which are a pain. It is important to make sure the zerk - and the end of your grease gun - is clean before injecting grease. Otherwise it's a grit-injection device. With one of these high-dollar gizmos life is better, especially if you have the lever-type grease gun. I have pistol-grip grease gun, so it's now a one handed operation. https://locknlube.com/

If you go to the CDC Commorbidities page it specifically lists the deaths as "involving Coronavirus". When you look at the death codes, some are abortion related, some are gunshots, accidents involving pedestrians and trains. Pretty sure if you're chilling in your mom's womb when a "doctor" kills you, that's not COVID related. Same with getting decapitated in a train wreck.

This is currently on my agenda for tomorrow. My spiders and side gears were pretty loose 40k miles ago so she's get those parts, too. Kit from East Coast Gear Supply: Looks like it's only an extra $50 for those parts versus just changing the clutches and steels. https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-284521-gears-install-kits-carriers-spider-gears-dana-spicer-gears-dana-80-d80-dana-80-carriers-spider-gears-small-parts.html

I don't know that I did, BUT that is because "Spirited driving" has become more of the norm often enough to affect my mileage. I love level three, but if I had giant injectors and turbo like Mopar1973man does, level two would be fun. When my Adrenalin is set to zero, I'm about as stock as they get. I have a set of injectors to go in, just need the time.

One of the gauges you can choose to display is MPG. I'm not sure how one goes about figuring out where to set that. If you start driving the truck enough to know how far off the factory overhead unit is, then I suppose you can tweak the Adrenaline MPG Offset. I don't bother with that gauge.

Likely because I've never dealt with the blower assembly on my truck, but I am failing miserably in picturing what was done. Also, the few times I've run my truck around -20 the last thing I needed was more heat in the cab. That may be because of the homemade winter front and blocking 2/3 the radiator with cardboard. I may have been running the 200 thermostat back then.

Level three has spoiled me, but I'm still otherwise stock. My CANBus fuel map is only about 17% but makes all the difference in the world for in town driving! I haven't noticed my mileage drop compared to level 2.

Based on Leety's photo, it appears to be a non-adjustable boost elbow. On my big monitor here at work there seems to be a hole drilled in the brass elbow.

I have the FASS pump. It also did this with the stock-style pump when put on the relay, and the stock-style replacement I put on because I thought the original was going bad when it wouldn't run the "two seconds" as stated in the FSM. I just checked a few minutes ago, and the FSM does not say if that 2 seconds is at 25% or 100% so I have to assume it's at 100% - the 25% seems to ONLY be while cranking. However, I just realized the relay isn't the only thing that changed, I also moved the lift pump to the frame and thus extended the wiring harness. Can't image that has anything to do with it, but perhaps. I do not believe I ever ran the stock pump off of the ECM without the relay, and I KNOW for an absolute fact that I never ran the FASS off of the ECM without the relay. I say that because that could have stressed the ECM circuit in some way (got hot and ruined a soldered connection, etc.) For the 2001s it says 2 seconds. I just checked it a bit ago. And, it USED to be 2 seconds! Only changed when I added the relay, extended harness, and relocated the pump. Same pump. And another brand new Carter I carried for a spare. I installed the FASS DDRP later. I haven't had my truck to a dealer, so shouldn't have been 'flashed' or whatever.

I know exactly why the USPS is so busy, they're like Cool Hand Luke, digging and filling holes over and over again. I ordered a book from Colorado Springs on the 8th, and I have every reason to believe the USPS received it no later than Friday the 11th but likely by the 10th. It left Denver on the 13th and finally got to Kansas City, KS on Wednesday the 16th. Keep in mind this is straight down Interstate 70. It sat there for two days, then drove south (the wrong direction) about 20 miles to Edgerton, KS. So far it has been to KCK four times, and Edgerton, KS three times. One time it apparently only spent 22 minutes in Edgerton. I live in an area where if I order something early in the day from Amazon, I may get it later that day. The Amazon facility is in or near Edgerton!!!!! Expected delivery date is Wednesday the 23rd. Un-f&*#%-believable .

Running empty, my K1500 Suburban got 19 MPG on one round trip from Kansas City to Madison, WI and back. Kept my speed around 65. That 42 gallon tank was nice!

If I bump the starter it runs, but it doesn't run reliably when the key is turned to "on". It's supposed to run for a few seconds, according to my manual. It did that before I installed the relay. I do not remember if that key "on" is the lower duty cycle like it is while cranking engine.

It's been my observation that since I put my lift pump on an ECM-triggered relay that the pump (none of three tried) doesn't do its normal startup routine. I hypothesize it's because the pulse-width-modulation signal from the ECM isn't reliably making my normal relay close. In a semi-unrelated internet search this popped up. It's a solid-state relay that fits the normal mechanical relay base. Hella part number: H41773001 http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/relays/mini-iso-relays/12v-spst/h41773001-931773987/ https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdownloads/HELLA41773001.pdf Thoughts? I expect most will be 'that's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist' EDIT: I see that the duty cycle is only 90%, but I don't know if that's at the max ambient of +125 degrees Celsius. Surely a lower ambient could boost that to 100% duty cycle. This is incorrect, I believe. The 'rated amperage' at 85C (185 degrees F) is 20 Amps. I guess the 'maximum ambient' of 125C is for when it's just sitting around on a shelf. Further edit, I read the 'base' is different than a "normal" relay, so some wiring switcharoo in the relay base would be needed. Easy to do, just something to remember. After all these edits, this may be a terrible idea! I've used these in my homebrew setup for a while with great results, but that's obviously not in an underhood environment: https://www.amazon.com/TWTADE-SSR-40-3-32V-5-60V-Solid/dp/B079BGGVYX/ref=pd_sbs_5?pd_rd_w=nfADM&pf_rd_p=ed1e2146-ecfe-435e-b3b5-d79fa072fd58&pf_rd_r=5QE4JEKCV24F2YA3MVS8&pd_rd_r=d231ae23-7cb1-4c3f-853d-c0c6ac98488c&pd_rd_wg=NqsDN&pd_rd_i=B079BGGVYX&psc=1

I went with the 8x.0085 VCO units. I run an Adrenaline so will tune to keep the EGTs low; if not, the Quad can back off fuel to keep the EGTs in check. I went with less than the 7x0.010 150HP injectors because if the Quad wigs out one day I don't want to be driving TOO big of a chimney. I am keeping the stock reman injectors which only have about 50k miles on them so worth $100 to me. I wouldn't say I'm pinching pennies on injectors, just "stretching my fun money budget". By buying injectors on sale I put that 'saved' money towards either keeping my injectors or buying the HE351W (also on sale - $450 + $20 shipping). I also have an automatic transmission that I don't want to destroy, so have not tapped the pump wire. I'm not trying to join the tire shredding 500 HP club, but am very intrigued by Mopar1973Man's fuel mileage results from going with bigger injectors with lower (pulse width? duration?) and higher pop pressure. Will it ever pay for itself for me? Almost assuredly "no!" Especially if I have to strip it all back off under a Harris/Biden EPA. But I don't golf, I don't travel or go to the movies, I don't collect guns or rare bourbons - a man needs a hobby, and this one is mine for now. I have a "brewery" in my basement (currently disassembled) that I used to use even though I will never save enough money on store-bought beer to justify it. Same kind of deal. Just to "see if I can", or for "the experience". I bought an Arduino Beginner's kit the other day on a whim after rereading Me78569's post about controlling a VE turbo. I have no dreams of replicating that project, but wanted the experience of at least playing with an Arduino and learning a little something. Just fun money.

Here is the link to what Blueox01 discovered for making this turbo work. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/17583-when-bolt-onisnt-quite-bolt-on/?tab=comments#comment-228910

Mine, neither, but a $450 turbo is in mine! Pulled the trigger this afternoon. Shipping to KC from Austin around $20.

I don't really know where those measurements are taken, but in the photos for that listing it looks to me like the compressor wheel is (58x85), but there is a lot of meat chopped out between the two. One internet search result for Application resulted in a forum where a seemingly knowledgeable fellow said the turbo is for an industrial 6.7L engine. He did not list a reference for such data, but then again I don't cite references when I state that Force = mass*acceleration or the sun rises in the east.

Not sure of all of them, but one big one is that the CW has that change of direction built in on the compressor side. BlueOx01 has an exhaust brake on his rig that needs the 5-bolt flange. I do not, but my 'new' exhaust is set up for the "snout" style of later trucks, not the v-band clamp so wanted to be able to bolt mine on.

No, but didn't sound too tough. Have to clock it and make a new means of attaching the waste gate actuator.

For those familiar with the turbo BlueOx01 installed recently, that turbo is on sale if you're willing to wait a while to get it. I am strongly considering it and thought I'd share. This is the 12 cm^2 version, not the 9. https://www.benzforce.com/products/pre-order-holset-he351w-4043980-4043982-he351

This is very good information, I like the concise format with basic description. Makes it easier to compare to any aftermarket options.

This has got to be 70% of the winter in KC. 28% above 32, and 2% below 14. I'll take the heated lamps! Hopefully not heading near or north of I-90 this winter... Knock on wood.

Whatever "OEM" heater core I bought from Geno's a few years ago ($149 ) does a fine job of cooking me out of the cab, too. Did not have adjustable arms, so I just lopped them off with a tubing cutter to get it through the firewall. Might they blow off if my engine gets too hot? Maybe. They haven't in 50k miles. I run a Stant Super-Stat, 190F ($8 at Rock Auto). Part number 46289. Watching the ECT on the Adrenaline (not the dashboard gauge), it holds temps very steady, slow swing of just a few degrees when cruising down the interstate, regardless of winter or summer.