LorenS

Taking apart new turbos is WAY easier than fighting an old one! Removed exhaust housing to access the snap ring.

With my stock injectors, probably zero! But, I have some 100 HP injectors waiting to be installed some day. Blueox01 says it's great! I have an automatic, though, so who knows. Looks close to Mike's hybrid 35/40 as far as sizing, compressor a little smaller than the 40.

I just got my HE351W (not the HE51CW) in the mail today! @dripley should be getting his, too. BlueOx01 was the first to install this turbo, that I know of. Here is a link where this turbo is discussed, which also contains links to other posts about the turbo. @AH64ID addresses the "size" of the turbo, and applicability of this turbo. 70x60 turbine 58x85 compressor 12 cm^2 housing

This evening I finally fixed my high beams! Not surprisingly, when the fan ate my wiring last spring, it also smoked the fuse. HOWEVER - I did not know that I could have power at the headlights with a blown fuse, so didn't ever check it (them?!) until I read about this issue. After "the incident" I believe I repinned the connector, thus using the high beam as my power source for switching relay. See FSM for boring details...

Can you post a photo of how that mounts in the cab?

Very good write-up on not just the what and how, but also WHY! Just a note, the pistons and seals are now available on Rock Auto for about $5-6 apiece (2021).

@Mopar1973Man is there a write-up on your sensor mount? Interested in the fittings required, how assembled to prevent spinning, etc. For instance, is that a reducing bushing passed through the mount, which is held tight by the air brake fitting?

Stock timing is around 13.43° at 1499 RPM, right? Should we just start there, or is there a reason to actually go backwards from stock timing?

Last week we had a high of 0⁰ one day, and tomorrow close to 70⁰!

I still have 2nd gen brakes, but third gen wheels. Steel for winter, but the tube would hit my aluminum wheels if tube was to the wheel. I don't remember if offsets in front of rear, and did have to put on the shims. Wheel still supported by hub, not studs. I do. The best compliment I can give them is that I forget they are there! I share the enthusiasm, wholeheartedly! My HY-35 deserves retirement.

I had to whip out the angle grinder to fit Centramatics. One caliper must have been cast a few minutes before the whistle on a hot Friday afternoon and the call of an ice cold beer was just too strong. That was last resort after flipping inside, outside, front and back.

I wish I had some advice, but it sounds like you've already got quite a list of things to check. Best of luck, let us know what you find!

Very interesting.

I have wondered if the relief valve on the VP is affected by the colder diesel. This week's bout of negative temps is the first I've experienced with this pump on my truck. Also, the first time Ive had pressure over 25 PSI. Then it dropped to ten and waved up and down til settling in at the usual 15-16. Not sure how many miles are on my VP, only had truck for 63k miles or so.

Is this applicable to this style of FASS DDRP?

I notice in the CANBUS table, from 14 to 15 PSI the % jumps 5 points.

Yes. Makes a guy wonder how they sleep at night, charging a person $106 for a $40 filter. That's something you do to someone who deserves it, not the general public.

Here is what I just came up with for BHAF options. Donaldson is the only manufacturer with filter efficiency and the test used, and also the only supplier to give flow data so the day I switch they'll get my business. Once again, NAPA is trying to find the sucker born every minute. Is that meant for a 1940's engine?! Looks good for a prefilter.

Re-pinning was easy in my situation because I didn't touch the truck side; I changed the HIDs wiring harness plug. Guessing that'd be impossible on a bulb!

My internet research indicates that both the H7 and 9005 are single-filament bulbs. They probably aren't as good as our D2S retrofits, but are they better than the "stockish" lights? The stockish lights I put on my truck had a non existent cutoff, and errant light beams. Somewhere on this site are those photos. Those same properties didn't change when I installed the Morimoto 9004/9007 HID kit, they were just amplified. So, I wound up buying different (clear lens) housings, and not much changed. So, I then bought the rest of the pieces I needed for the D2S conversion. Quite happy with them until I replaced my radiator and forgot to re-fasten the wiring and the engine fan had a meal... Replaced lots of parts and I still don't have my high beams! No knock on the lights, I just need more time for diagnosing the issue. If a guy is willing to do the labor himself for baking off the lens, it's actually pretty easy and not much more money than fancy LEDs. But, I pieced the parts together from their 'seconds' and 'returns'. I don't care if the box is damaged, it's just going in the trash anyway. The downside is that if it's your first rodeo with this, it's best to set aside a whole day "just in case". I ran my old lights while I built my new ones, so it was no big deal and could do the project in parts when I had time.

I thought these were interesting. I wish there was a local place I could check them out. Not that I need headlights since I have the D2S projectors, but in case I buy another truck or to let others know about them. If nothing else, they may be awesome for retrofitting. http://www.anzousa.com/dodge-ram-1500-94-01-ram-2500-3500-94-02-projector-h-l-halo-black-clear-amber-ccfl.html For anyone like Styx with Too Much Time on their hands, here's (one of?) the federal regulations for lights. I certainly have not intention of reading all that, but thought I'd share! https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?SID=7d443eb75ceba033fed91e90f816b574&node=se49.6.571_1108&rgn=div8

Is this because it winds up being OVER timed, results in excess negative torque? Because I can't help but notice that when we're tuning our Adrenalines, we try to advance as much as safe/beneficial so that we increase MPGs!

Is that just due to the mounting bracket location, or other reasons? I don't know why, but I thought you were about to become a FASS dealer. Was it AirDog? Since the Amsoil "All In One" is the same price or less than the Wal-Mart 2-stroke oil I just use it. Or when out of town for months on end (thanks, COVID), I use the white PDS. Granted, the 2-stroke has a fuel benefit (BTUs) that the anti-gels do not (or at least insignificant). When I fill up in Minnesota or northern Iowa I don't need it for antigel since then know how to treat fuel. Buying fuel in KC then traveling north I think is a poor idea.

"It's not the heat, it's the humidity" 😆 82% RH is still pretty darn dry, absolute.

Our D2S headlights are NOT legal for driving lights in the USA. Scroll way down, near bottom. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/bixenon-morimoto-mini-d2s-stage-3-CRK-D2S?quantity=1