LorenS

A mechanical pump sure sounds good to me, but availability is more important to me. Having the electric fuel pump on the frame, it can die in the middle of nowhere and I can find a pump at any parts store in America that will work to at least get me home. A few months ago, no one I could find had mechanical pumps in stock. And if for some reason a guy wants a Fluidampr, I believe that rules out the mechanical pumps. With the electric pump on a relay instead of directly powered through the ECM, I don't expect any issues. I definitely would use a mechanical pump if availability was better, or cheap enough to carry a spare.

I helped my dad do this to his 05, just a couple months ago. Other than being very time consuming and a pain pulling the dash (wires everywhere!) it seemed pretty straight forward.

There are some really good tunes for sale on this site, and if you make a post after running a tune for a bit, folks can help you get it dialed in. The Quad tuning guide is a must, but certain threads have even more insight when/if you get into the fine details.

I had a work-issued 2015, and it was a great truck, but I didn't have to pay for the maintenance and repairs. There are lots of undeleted 6.7s around, but everyone I know who has one past the 150k mile mark gets it deleted. I don't want that hassle! I wish Gear Vendors (or similar) were a little more robust for trucks versus race cars - I see mixed reviews. I'd likely never use double OD, but splitting the other gears would be great!

I just REALLY don't want to go newer than December 31st, 2006. I don't want to deal with DPF, EGR, regens, etc., and don't want to deal with future crack downs on deleted trucks.

Me, neither. I tried an online VIN decoder to see if it's been converted for some reason, but no luck.

I came across this ad, and it seems high for pushing 200k miles. But, it also seems to have no rust. Thought I'd see what you all think. I have two sets of 3rd Gen wheels for my 2nd, so would swap to stock steel wheels. Weird there's no photos of interior. I may go check it out on Sunday if still available, try to get a better price. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/ctd/d/harrisonville-2007-dodge-ram-3500-trx4/7337248890.html

I often envy you manual transmission guys, until stop and go traffic for a couple weeks, with no distant drive to a job site!

Maybe more like an old insurance agent? But with a younger man's restroom break schedule, depending on coffee consumption. Now that I think about it, maybe I drive like a guy driving to a slaughterhouse - both when I go to the meat packing plants, and when I'm driving home to two kids under 6, and the wife who is (rightfully) eager to turn over the reigns when I get home!

@AH64ID I have zero luck with consistent MPG. I sometimes drive the same route, +550 miles round trip and the MPG is up and down 3-4 MPG. Always running "empty", and I go the same speed. I take into account the different fueling stations, when applicable - normally the same station, same pump when I can. MPG calculated by hand. Same trip, same fuel stations, same tire pressure, two weeks apart and the MPG is off by 3 MPG. Probably even the same couple of XM radio stations. I even note in my fuel log if I fight a headwind both directions, and mentally remember if it was hot one trip and colder the next. I drive what some would call conservatively or like an old man. Sometimes +/- 17 MPG, sometimes 18.5-19 MPG, but a couple weeks ago was 20.9 MPG. I'm jealous you can tell the difference in MPGs on things like diff oil across a couple thousand miles, I have no idea what my truck's issue is with consistency.

Based on photos from NAPA, AC Delco website, and Rock Auto, I believe the NAPA track bars are AC Delco Professional and are much cheaper on Rock. I am using one now, but only ~30k miles on it so far so can't yet speak to longevity.

Always have a tool bag in the truck for work.

I don't have a needle valve, just a 1/8" pipe plug in my repair kit under the back seat.

If all you did was open up the fuel line, you shouldn't need to bleed the air. Just do the key bump and the lift pump will push the air out. Once the VP44 starts trying to pump air down the injector lunes, THEN you need to crack the injector lunes and bleed.

My "snubber" is just a fitting with a really small hole in it. Like a small carburetor jet.

Is your toe set correctly, and the caster? Also, as I'm sure you know slop can be caused by many things. I have way to much in my steering and I know a good amount of it is the steering shaft. I also have not ever adjusted the steering box (nut and Allen screw, I believe) and it's one of the many things on the to-do list I forget to consult on days I'm already under the truck.

Stupid question, what is the purpose of the Hobbs switch? Also, are you sucking through an electric, rotary vane pump?

I used these tinned lugs in various sizes and perceived the quality to be quite high. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073Y8443Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title I borrowed a crimper and also soldered, followed with heat shrink. These terminals are similar story. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LLWKXV6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Maybe the speedometer hasn't been corrected for the 35s. GPS may show he's going 75 and not 65.

Silly question perhaps, but does dumping the fuel right into the filler neck significantly aerate the fuel? I don't have the deaerating style of pump. I know it gets aerated when I get fuel, but eventually the vast majority should leave. I have planned on doing either a remote draw straw, or a remote fuel return. Since I have bad 1/4 tank issues (6 gallons or more in tank!) I may go the Mopar1973Man route with remote draw.

I wonder if my DRP is heating the fuel. That style doesn't have a return to the tank, it only dumps excess back to the suction side. Coupled with return to the fuel basket, that fuel is getting churned a lot. Wil440's 5-7 is from a mechanical lift pump when the engine idles. At a higher RPM his pressure should rise until the lift pump's regulator starts to divert fuel. If a guy was to really lug the engine, this may not be a good approach. Driven at moderate RPM and higher, it should work beautifully. Last time I looked to buy a mechanical pump none of the regular sources had any. I wonder how much the fuel temp rises as it goes through the head, and does that passageway get clogged with asphaltenes in higher mileage, stock head trucks (particularly those abused by previous owners...). I need to check my return flow to find out!

For a given flow rate pressure correlates to restriction. Pinching off the return raises resistance so either pressure rises, flow decreases, or both. Simple DC electric circuit. I don't know the Cv value (K value in SI units?) of anything in the system, especially not that little 14PSID pressure regulator.

I drove 300 miles Wednesday, only shutting the engine off for a few minutes to refuel. Fuel temp reached 150 ⁰F with 17+ PSI. Air temp less than 80 ⁰F. No trailer, 70 MPH. I'll mention I also achieved a fuel mileage record on that tank, 20.9 MPG! The day before was another 300 mile day mostly highway and rural roads. My fuel still returns to the basket, though.

Having never taken one of these apart myself and the videos not stating directly one way or the other, I have to ask the most basic of questions. Referring to the photo with the zip-tie, if a guy were to remove the 14 PSID regulator and look in the hole, would he see the zip-tie? Does the regulator valve tie into that passageway or not? From photos it looks like it has to, but the pretty cartoon picture indicates it does not. I have enough leaks on my truck I'm not about to take my apart any time soon. And since my wife and I bought a new house I'm really in need of my truck (and time) right now!

Aren't there TWO pressure reliefs, one internal for the vanee pump set at a higher PSI and relieves internal to the pump, and the external one that pops at 10-14 PSID and returns to the tank?