LorenS

Why make the lift pump work to overcome the 14 PSID valve? If a guy put in an aftermarket back pressure regulator, he could also install a normally closed solenoid around that regulator and energize it only when running the lift pump in cool down mode. See sketch.

For @dripley! I've certainly been behind my fair share of Chicken Trucks on U.S. Highway 65. https://youtu.be/qg4psqXicRs

I hear you on that! Here's a link to where I list some part numbers, and one basic photo of my install on the frame. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/18093-donaldson-upstream-spin-on-screen/?tab=comments#comment-234399

My DDRP is on the frame with a spin on screen ahead of it. Works very well for my stock injectors and some Quadzilla Adrenaline CANbus fueling. Now if I would just take Mike's advice to move my fuel return out of the fuel module basket, I'd really be doing well in that department. Pressure is good, but fuel temp gets hot.

I've heard those referred to as "Perkipillar" engines. I thought that was funny. I considered this, just figured I've have smelled coolant at some point. When my old radiator started to weep at the side tank crimp I would smell it. I'd say it's likely the same. I always remove the radiator cap to check the fluid level there as well as the plastic tank, and it's always full. I have so much fuel leaking, however, that maybe it's masking the coolant smell AND might be mixing with the fuel so I don't really see it, assuming it is diesel. I really need to get my K5 running and licensed again so I can have the Dodge down for more than a weekend. Having children really cuts into my ability to get anything else done! Couple years and the boy should be able to help a little. My dad said that around age 7 I started to be "helpful" to put it nicely...

No. Looks like it's brand new. It's probably leaking externally, I just haven't found it yet. Everything leaks on this truck except brake fluid, t-case, and FINALLY the transmission. A/C, steering, fuel, oil from every gasket, both diffs, coolant all leak. Probably vacuum leaks, too!

That's really great, Mike! Sounds like in a few months the 5th Gen section might be getting some new articles 😆

I sure didn't think it should be possible, but I learned long ago that just because the laws of physics seem to not allow something, there's a wrinkle in the law I hadn't considered. For instance, if the 14 PSI plus water pump dynamic head could overcome turbo boost and push coolant into the intake. Especially if the failed head gasket acted like a check valve, thus preventing boosted intake air from ever pressurizing my coolant. I have a pressure tester but of course it's across town at my little shop. Will drop by to pick it up this week.

Yeah, when I looked at my arms I skipped right over bushings and knew I'd buy arms. The bolt was so rusted in the metal bushing sleeve that it wouldn't come out, even with nut off. Like a stuck loader arm pin. Couldn't press it out, the mega sized air hammer wouldn't touch it, either. Previous owner used it as a plow truck for a winter or two. My mistake buying such a truck! Thought I'd only drive it 1,000 miles per year, now sometimes I do that in a week!

Yes.

One of the worst jobs on my truck so far has been changing out the control arms, due to rust. All my dad's cool tools from working on yellow iron couldn't blast out a couple of those bolts, so bought new ones and out came the smoke wrench. Should've just started with that.

My truck has consistently eaten coolant since I've owned it, 65k miles or so. If it isn't leaking (can't see or smell it), is it possible for the coolant to find its way into the combustion chamber but not have exhaust gas get into coolant? 1/4 - 1/2 gallon a month, new radiator and obviously coolant last summer. Coolant looks new (not surprising considering how much I add).

If the problem could be the boost, I'd unhook the boost gauge and go for a drive before I dropped coin on a sending unit.

I don't even have a needle valve, just the Geno's snubber. Is the wiring/ground for your gauge in good shape?

I'd be looking at the fuel pressure regulator, filters/strainers, drive belt, etc. Of course checking with a mechanical gauge or other known gauge would be a good idea, too. Your sender seems VERY well protected. My ISSPRO sender doesn't have it that safe, with 60k miles on it. How many miles are on yours?

Glad you got it all ironed out and it's running good again. I don't run too high of RPM without warmed engine so can't say if that's normal or not.

Throttle Brake Parking Brake BOOM! 3 pedals. One hand holding my coffee, the other holding the wheel and operating the turn signal. :D

For the longest time I've wanted a 3/4 ton, square body Suburban with an ISB 4 cylinder and one of Fuller's automated manuals. FO5506B may be one of the model numbers that's close. I like to sip coffee and be a "steering wheel holder", not shift gears through every dinky town, or rush hour in big cities

My brakes must be awful, I'm pretty certain my truck wouldn't have stopped that quickly. Glad everything turned out okay.

Item #32 is the grommet, MOPAR part number is 04429451. Whoever is responsible for EACH grommet costing $20+ should be taken behind the barn for a "discussion".

Currently discs, as would be the donor axle. The listing says the axle is from a 2500, was that an available upgrade? I read that it was, but it wasn't what I'd call an irrefutable source of information, either. I think my dad talked me out of buying it since I don't actually KNOW that I need it. Of course I would think it would be just as easy for me to resell it later if I don't need it. If I didn't have so much on my plate for the next two months I'd drive the 4 hours round trip to go get it.

Has this been resolved? What did you find was the issue?

21.77 MPG seems pretty darn good to me! I know if I had a truck like that and wanted more power/MPG I'd be asking Apache John where I should start. I know you guys have emissions testing in ID, does that rule out camshaft change to something more similar to the 12 valve?

I once bought an S10 pickup at auction (video auction) from Oklahoma. By the time it was delivered to Kansas City, early winter had set in. That engine didn't have anti freeze for some dumb reason. Used a can of K&W block seal and put probably 80k miles on it before a pizza delivery driver blew a red light and totaled the truck. I got lucky on the repair, but I was told specifically to use K&W.

Danm, you should have told me, they had a BOGO today Drat!!