LorenS

I should be going to test drive the 2018 this evening. I showed up Saturday morning but they had lost the keys in the preceding 15 hours! My guess is the salesman accidentally put them in his pocket Friday night and took them home. Being 2WD, I hope for pretty decent fuel economy and I do plan to immediately purchase the EPA-compliant Green Diesel Engineering tune, which also tells you when it's doing a regen. I think this truck has the 3.55 gears. The CARFAX shows the original window sticker, but I'm lost as to whether it got the 3.92 towing package gears or the 3.55 gears that are listed later in the document. Speaking of tow package, it doesn't even have a real trailer hitch!? There's something under there that looks like a normal receiver hitch, but nothing to accept a 2" tube. Baffled by that. It may soon get a Curt class IV. And other things to make it more Big Horn or Laramie and less bottom trim level. The OBD Link units Mike has recommended in the past can turn on/off various Body Computer settings, though I may have to upgrade from the LX to the MX (or borrow the one I bought for my dad ). Apparently you can even tell the computer that you installed exterior LEDs so it doesn't throw codes!

That looks a kit to add fogs to a truck that didn't have them so the customer or dealer be guaranteed to have everything needed. For any trucks that didn't get the wiring at the factory.

Any update? I know this was a year ago, but I'm looking at a couple of 2016-2018 ecodiesel trucks. I need a commuter, and my commute coupled with my frequent longer trips should keep the emissions system happy.

That's an expensive mistake!

My thoughts after reading the TDR pages a few years back was to match the specs of a 1993 6BT, or on the "more power" theme maybe something like the now-discontinued Colt Stage 1 cam. But this is more dreaming unless someone experienced such as yourself said it's totally worth the money since it's that far torn down. For instance, for all the folks that knock the free spin hubs but don't have them, I can't remember ever reading from a guy that had them saying it was money poorly spent.

I got the speedy sleeve version, thanks for the tip on NOT removing the installation cone. I'll certainly look over everything as it comes off. Things like fan blades I don't feel like I need to order ahead of time, I can replace it after I've reassembled the truck. I would've regretted not replacing the front seal with everything out of the way, but taking off the fan isn't too tough without removing the front of the truck! Water pump same story, and it's fairly newish (60-70k miles). I've looked up behind my damper and it LOOKS okay as far as rubber condition, and it isn't too hard but I don't know what's "right", either. It's not like an old, cracked tractor tire tough as armadillo hide, that's for sure, more like a new truck tire. I may order a new stock version. My thoughts on the cam were more for getting more MPG by reducing overlap, getting back to a grind similar to the 6BT days. Also, not sure if cam bearings are anything we worry about. I think I've seen ZERO posts about them on this site. Thanks everyone for the recommendations!

Here's another one. With 345k miles do I put on a new damper? I assume it's stock. Being it's 21 years old I have to believe the rubber has seen better days. Or am I being paranoid, (likely due to my days of owning GM 6.5L diesels)?

Since this post is mostly about "getting to the next milestone", I'll stick it in this forum. In the not to distant future I plan to change out my A/C condenser and compressor. With the condenser coming out I plan to pull the radiator, intercooler (has bent mounting ears from Bambi damage) etc. and change the front seal while I'm there. What else is best done with everything out of the way? Perfect time for a cam, but don't know that I need one. Service the power steering? Vacuum pump overhaul, even if it doesn't need it yet? Timing cover gasket? I plan to have the truck down for a while, so I can make the list as long as practical.

For my headset I bought a BlueParrot 350-XT and it works great on the highway. I've used it with passenger window down, can't remember if I've tried it with driver's window down. Mind of pricey at $100, but worth it. Battery lasts a long time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017O672DA/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any update? Being intermittent sounds like a basic electrical connection problem. If a computer is smoked, it doesn't work at all. Now, the electrical connection could be a solder joint in the computer so still beyond a normal DIY (maybe for W-T, but not mere mortals!)

I use a type A lift pump, so that may be one reason my fuel gets HOT, like 160, on long runs, even empty and not towing. Coupled with fuel return to basket. Fuller tank of fuel only slows the temp rise.

that's impressive and shiny carbon buildup.

I'd dump it immediately and use in any gas engine before it gets loaded with soot. I wouldn't risk a camshaft, etc.

5 or 6 days straight with the rain here and dew point in the 70’s, I'd trade you for the 115 degrees, especially with dew point in the 50s. The one year I have zero garden. The compost heap looks awesome, though! Radish tops took off like weeds, so my get a lot of volunteer radishes next year if the seeds take. And the seeds from my kid's pumpkin from last Halloween are DOMINATING! Just growing in last fall's chopped up leaves.

Do the sensor outputs seem to make sense? Like coolant is ambient first thing in the morning, and 180-200 when warm? MAP rise when boost should be coming on? Is engine load at idle and in park/neutral above 0%? Preferably around 5-8%.

The problem may not be related to the lift pump install. So you have a live data reader of any kind? And at 175,000 miles if your injectors are factory, they may be getting weak and injecting too early. Coupled with a low engine temp and disconnected grid heater, I would think that could lead to unburnt fuel. A map sensor could be lying to the ECM and causing it to overfuel,same with an ECT sensor. This is where a live data reader would come in handy.

That's the way I've seen it described, but I also found an early post Nick wrote where it was described as being the full 5 degrees, but at half the max RPM (which makes the most sense to me, but I'm not a programmer).

There's a way to do this with the Adrenaline, too. "Super secret setting". I'll see if I can find it on this site or just check one of my tunes and let you know how to enable this setting. Okay, if you go into the tune and under the heading "Timing Parameters" set them all to 0. Then open up the "equalizer" and add a few degrees however you see fit. I did 3, 5, 7, 7, 7 on the RPM and Max settings. Remember, those settings are ADDED to the stock timing.

I would think that setting the Low PSI Timing Reduct to 5⁰ vs. 2⁰ should more than make up for starting the timing table at 15⁰ vs. 13⁰. That's what it is for, right, to retard timing to spool the turbo?

Okay, so it would bolt onto the HE351W. BlueOx01 uses his dually as a hotshot driver, as I understand it, so if he's very happy with the turbo I'm his application, I imagine most would be happy with it towing, too. Especially if coming from an HX35. I have one, too, and think it's great for daily driving.

Maybe I missed it, but what IS your application, as far as intended use of the truck? If your Jacobs brake bolts up to the HX35 like a PacBrake, then the HE351W would also work. Cheap at Benzforce.com. BlueOx01 is a hot shot driver and likes that turbo a lot. People more knowledgeable than me say it's similar to an HX35/40 hybrid, but modern.

I understand, I guess I just didn't expect to have to tow that light in 1:1 gear so as to not reach the warning track on EGTs. This is where a different 4th gear would be great, or a splitter like a Gear Vendors, etc.

I'm pretty confident that at those weights my truck wouldn't move, even on flat ground! I'm not sure of the history of that torque converter or stall speed. I'm not sure how else to get set up to aid the EGTs, other than tweaking my Adrenaline tune. I have reman injectors now, with around 50k miles of mostly highway miles. I do have that set of 125 HPish, 8-hole injectors put in which I purchased around Christmas. My HE351W should be fine, right? Guaranteed BluOx01 tows farther and heavier than I ever do and will! He has same turbo. Little tires, but overdrive is 0.69 and have 3.55 gearing. Just seems like 2600 RPM or so is excessive for the load I was pulling on flat Midwest terrain!

I suppose this is why I don't go camping. If I'm going so far away from home that I don't need (really want) air conditioning, then I likely boarded an aircraft - or at the very least drove far enough from home I don't want to drag a camper at 60 MPH or less. My truck is a genuine POS, I have no idea how you guys tow long distances and heavy. Two days ago I pulled a 16' box trailer not loaded heavy at all, was a beautiful 80 degree day, and EGT got to the yellow zone on my ISSPRO until I kicked it out of OD. 60 MPH and crazy (to me) RPM soon followed.

I bought a Donaldson B105006 and it fit really well in the space. This is my first go around with one. I figured the bigger the surface area the better. Not sure what the WIX/NAPA crossover number is. Edit: Nevermind! The 2790 is even bigger, according to IBMobile's article.