CSM

Good Job, Mike. You can't fix stupid, I agree. It would be nice to call in one of these for your neighbor... Heheh..

Odd

LoL.

Neat

No, he just left.

The pump is run off the cam lobe like an old car. Pretty reliable. There might be a boost pump In the back but I'm not sure. Unfortunately our resident 12 guy is gone.

For a stock truck, a 12v is hard to beat. It's kinda like an anvil.

I'm 99% sure the p7100 is static timing. Still a good pump.

I had this issue but it was wiring. In the door there is a jagged edge that can cut wires up. It is tough to find, since it is intermittent.

I'd imagine that part of the reason it sounds different is the static timing. I'd imagine that the VP44 can run a lot more timing overall than the P7100.

In many cases, yes. Caj Flynn (old poster with a million mile 2d gen) used the shift kits. I am not sure what kind he used though.

I have an older model fass 95/95. No idea on the direct replacement. I've been hearing many many stories around here of the new Air Dogs not being as reliable as the old ones.

Don't judge me, Cowboy!

Personally, I'd get a fass.

Ah, Dodge Cupholders. There are so many classic designs. Remember the old 1994-7 dual action one designed to either flip a mountain dew onto your right inner thigh and knee or bounce it vertically so it spills all down your radio and fills the CD slot with goo? How about the 98-02 model that looks super cool, fits up into the dash, but squeaks... creaks... and you only put one drink into because it is made of paper mache? I decided that I had enough. I went to Genos and ordered the center console cupholder I've always wanted. Let me break it down for you. This cupholder CHANGED MY LIFE! I am not sure what this says about me, my personal standards, or quality of life, but it is an amazing experience. This one piece of blown plastic has fixed one of the major design flaws on my truck. It really is the little things that really make a difference sometimes. I can overlook the faded paint, the hail damage, the shattered dash, and lack of 4 doors, because I now have a cupholder that works.

I don't have a 3rd gen... However, from hearing Wild N Free talk about it, it would appear that they made the 48 a bit stronger. Still not free from mods for performance applications, but they seem to tow well without mods. ETA: I wish I bought a 3d gen! Haha. But... I love the blue beast.

Thanks. It may not all be right, but it's a start. I wouldn't mind putting the article together. The primary weak points on stock trucks are: -Fuel system pressure and flow rate -Automatic transmission on modified trucks Once you get past those two items, it is essentially a performance, towing, and general maintenance discussion. In my opinion, the 47RE trans most of us have is a good transmission in stock form... for a stock truck. If driven cautiously a stock trans will last a long time. People drive it without thinking of shifting and disregard maintenance. The 47RE is essentially only an electronically controlled and beefed up overdrive 727 torqueflite. These transmissions were designed to have their bands adjusted and have the fluid changed. PS. I also want to add... Much of this stuff I've posted I've learned from Mopar Man and Wild N Free. They can do a sanity check.

Head studs are optional. In my opinion, not required for occasional 30-40psi runs if your head is straight,your cooling system works as designed and has good fresh coolant that isn't worn out. And as always, the nicer you drive the better it will last.

Typo on my phone. Should be drive line. The valve body will up line pressures and keep the clutches from slipping. The auto typically fails from repeated slipping of clutches and the converter lock up clutch. Slipping causes excess wear, more slipping, then you get heat, and then you shell everything with debris and burned oil. And... while the auto is apart, one should put a bullet input in for any long term heavy towing or performance mods.

I really like my 62/12. Spools fast, tows great, and is still a great daily driver. Plus, its twinnable!

If I recall... Reliability mods. Fuel pump & fuel px gauge, not a px light. Valve body for automatic & drive line. Temp gauge is a nice to have. Performance mods after the above. Clutch or good triple (or better) converter... up to full billet depending on power needs adjustable fuel box & timing box or fuel/timing box or programmer. There are many stack options. Gauges or monitoring system . Exhaust Injectors Turbo... Turbo and injectors go hand in hand beyond a certain point. RV275s do well with stock turbo. Tunnel ram, cam, more hard parts.

If it is leaking from the overflow tank/vent tank then it isn't a big deal. If you are saying it is leaking from between the aluminum radiator core and the actual radiator end cap, you will need a new radiator at some point.

Man. That stinks. Do you have any idea what it was?

Does the oil run through the rod?

Well. The second or third most neglected fluid is radiator... Prestone has corrosion inhibitors that get used up. It is possible that there is some trash flowing around making problems come and go. Based on having problems with freeze plugs I would suspect some corrosion. I don't understand what you mean by ac cooling the engine around though.