CSM

My wife doesn't do recipes other than for inspiration... Everything is "as required." Fortunately we have very similar tastes.

All, Anybody with old mopar experience? If so, feel free to chime in. I am going to be in a position in the next year to start work again on my long neglected 70 Cuda. I've owned the car for quite a while, and its sat in the barn at home awaiting (as my dad put it) "time on your part or interested grand-kids!" Well, I may just have time starting spring 2016 and I am not ruling out the kids... So, lets discuss engine options. Overall, the car is an original 318 auto sublime green car. I have the rest of the parts to finish the car into a power bulge and nearly correct clone of what a 6pack non AAR cuda would have been. See photo below of what it looked like when I drug it home. It has since been stripped and is awaiting patch panels and body work. It has been converted correctly to a 4sp car with all the correct parts. 8.75 489 case rear end and still has the small block K frame. I have several A833 4sp transmissions to choose from that I've collected, and plan on trying both the old ball and detent style and newer style out. I have the parts to build a 340-6 pack (non T/A block & heads). I have two third members, and plan on keeping a 2.73 around as well as keeping the 4:10s around for track use since I have both now. I will likely end up with 3.55 final drive. The engine block will likely be a 68 or 72 .30 over 340 casting with steel crank. stock stroke. Stock reconditioned rods. I plan on a set of KB Hypereutectic flat top pistons. I have a set of X heads as well as several sets of J heads that I plan on starting with and doing a few iterations of porting until I finally give up and buy a set of Indy or Edelbrock heads. With the factory heads, and allowing for the smaller chamber Edelbrocks later, I will have to run with a lower 9.4to 1 compression on the Stock 70cc heads, but will up that to about 10.2?ish to 1 with the 63cc Edelbrock heads. (all assuming stock deck height) I would like to push this to about 10.8-11:1 with proper quench and cometic gaskets in the long run. The cam I am planning on experimenting with and contacting a few folks. The car is not a daily driver and I want it to be in the power band between 3000-6500+. As the cam and heads are going to be a bit of an iterative and fun process, I plan on trying some different stuff out. Also, keep in mind it's a 4sp car with zero vacuum components. It even has a manual foot operated windshield washer pump. "would be nice" Items will be a new MSD vac & mechanical ignition setup as well as new metering blocks for the outboard carbs so I can easily jet them. So, all that said. Any thoughts?

Mines. I was planning on UDub but went to Mines. I've worked a lot in Wyo though for my day job (oil & gas), and love it there.

That would be Wyoming. The wind keeps the riff raff out. Unfortunately, I don't work in WYO. If only I had gone to UWyo instead of CSM.

I believe that the DRB tool at the dealer can look at the individual sensors. This is recalled from other posts, as I haven't tried diagnosing this problem myself as of yet.

Colorado is getting overrun, so yes. Quite crowded. So many dope smoking hippies, arrogant yuppies, and wannabe yuppies it makes me sick.

If you do need a sensor, I have a NIB sensor. Personally, i'd Ohm it, then clean it, then ohm it and see if it needs replaced then. It could just be full of crud.

Radiator clean? Outside air temp higher than normal for that load?

I'd really like to pull and inspect my motor and replace the seals. And mabe... gasp... p pump it. I don't like doing that much stuff in the body. I wish these trucks has swing fenders like the old 60s dodge L series semis.

Warranty?

I don't know but I have to ask. Why?

Nice! I hope you guys like it. I'm going to be in the market for a commuter car next year and the vw is on the list to consider.

Any codes and what is OK fuel px?

I remember going to MEPS for my first military physical at o'dark sharp. The Gideons were there. I still have that camo bible too. Lots of guys need that sort of interface with the word. Especially in basic training. It's a cool ministry.

Mike, I am glad you are looking at it as more than a public service. This site is a great place that you built to help everyone... as witnessed by your willingness to help others. HOWEVER, it ain't designed as your free contribution to society.

I am fine with the donations, and I think it keeps the rif raf out to be honest. However, we do need a simple and easy to find description of what membership levels are and what they get you on our front page, and either a link or another description in the donation box. Last time i donated it wasnt there or wasn't noticeable enough.

The hard stuff to find is going to be any original info on the van aiken boxes and some of the old obscure stuff.

If it ran really rough at 2500 rpm and was really howling I might believe that the air was the primary cause... Other than that, I agree with Mike and feel its something else.

Weird.

I'd consider pulling the tap from the juice and see if that changes anything. I'm stumped.

Glad to hear it. If you want, feel free to support the site.

I can't recall the fass prime procedure 100%, but if you look it up on their site you should find what filter to loosen. My fass didn't prime until I cracked a filter.

Have you primed the fass fully by backing the fuel water seperator of till there are no gurgles? It's messy.

Welcome. I just did a set of injectors per Pepsi71oceans video on here. It was pretty easy.