Threadzy

I’m looking into those as well.

The front end parts on my truck are only a few years old. Moog. I put a 1” leveling kit on it. The front end is slightly off center. That’s why I am looking at an adjustable track bar. For the price of a Thuren or Carly I can live with it for now. 😆

Very true

I figured as much. Half the stuff at the parts houses are made in china. I went through 5 master cylinder’s from O’reilys in a one year period. All leaked from the same spot. The front tank where it sits on the aluminum housing. Put a Napa one on a couple months ago. So far so good

Does anyone run this track bar or one like it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/222670536407?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1xCqq0dyS56&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dXRtkXfnQY-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Ya I hear you. Ya the autos tend to give you a little warning before the AC noise takes out the Ecm or in an autos case pcm to.

Test for AC noise. Now that you’ve done the W-T mod it could be ok. Once I got my Nations alternator I still had the lock unlock issue with my transmission. Once I did the W-T mod I haven’t had any issues. I did the mod 5 or 6 years ago. It’s the high AC noise that fries the computers.

Test for AC noise from the alternator while the truck is running with no accessory’s on. Anything below .05 mv is acceptable. Above that replacement is necessary. I’ve been running a Nations alternator for years with no issues.

Why don’t you figure out where the drain is coming from?

Sorry for your loss.

Merry Christmas!

Glad you’re out and doing better. Take care Mike!

Happy Thanksgiving!

I took my rear sway bar off a few years ago once I put the Timbrens on. Pull my travel trailer with no problems.

I just picked one up at O’Rielys. Whatever brand they sell. Have had zero issues.

Like her hard drive! 😂

Looks great! We’re looking to upgrade in a few years. Once I retire.

I started taking the rear loom apart. I decided to stop. I went up to the plug under the drivers fender. Tested there. Nothing seemed out of sorts. Took the plug adapter off my trailer brake controller. With the trailer plugged in and the trailer lights on I got 7.5 volts. Applied the brake 12.3 bolts. Key on truck off. Scratched my head. Unplugged the trailer. Only had 12.3 when applying the break. No voltage with the lights on. Hmmm. Truck must’ve fine. Decided to buy a new trailer plug. Still had power to breaks when the headlights came on. Sooo I started looking at new trailers. 😍. The wife shot that down. So back to diagnosing. Decided to disconnect the green trailer light wire from the trailer . Everything worked like it should. Then I decided to just tie in the trailer marker lights. Everything worked as it should. Tied in the tail light’s problem popped up again. Thought there must be a short in the trailer somewhere. I remembered back in November I put some cheap , in Presidents Trumps voice , made in “China “ LED bulbs in. Took them out and put the stock bulbs back in and believe it on not everything Is working properly now. Because of those cheap *** bulbs I had to replace all the brakes on the trailer. and Rewired the trailer breaks. So be careful where you buy parts from. Been trying to figure this out for months. After I replaced the breaks last month everything was good. Heading back up to Roseville halfway there I turned the headlights on and oh crap. Finally just cut the blue wire to get there. For the trip home I wired it back up and left early enough where I wouldn’t need lights. Glad I finally figured it out.

Yes I have a plug adapter that connects my break controller to under the dash to the factory plug.

I’ve got to take my trailer plug loom apart. When I turn the running lights on the trailer breaks engage.

Check this place out Minton Motors inc. a salvage yard. Nothing but Dodge trucks. I believe they ship. I tried adding a link and it’s not showing up.

I don’t remember. I replaced mine with a cable actuator. Hook them up. If it doesn’t work swap them. Not going to hurt anything. There is a diaphragm on the passenger axle that engages it.

Those are the vacuum lines that engage the ,CAD, front axle.

No. It plugs into the map sensor and the comport in the engine bay. There is a couple more but those are the main two.

It’s due this November so 2021. The Quad intercepts the signal from the ECM. Then changes it to the injection pump. Nothing is changed in the ECM. If they see it I’ll unplug it. Should still pass the smoke test. They sure have been sending all my vehicles to star only stations.