IBMobile

"A gerotor style oil pump draws oil from the crankcase through the suction tube and delivers it through the block where it enters the oil cooler cover and pressure regulator valve. When oil pressure exceeds 65 PSI, the valve opens exposing the dump port, which routs excess oil back to the oil sump."(page 9-929) So you shouldn't see more than the 65 PSI even on a cold morning start.

"MONEY" I see it all the time on the stuff I work on. Instead of do it right, say, adding a brace that's 5 MM thick they use one that's 2.5 MM. It's just thick enough to get out of the warranty period before it brakes. Use cheaper parts or no anti-seize, a buck here a buck there, and over 250,000 units produced a lot of money is saved. [*]

You want to vacuum test the purge valve, not the canister. The canister is a place where the vapor is stored. The vapor is later sucked in to the intake manifold when the purge valve gets a signal to open.

The code p0507 idle air control system, idle higher than expected. Causes: Electric throttle control actuator, intake air leak, pcv system. If the code comes back try disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for 10 seconds.This will reset all the self learned settings. Cycling key on for one sec and off for 10 sec three times. This may reset the idle air volume learned by the pcu. The code p1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system. Causes: Loose gas cap, poor seal in fuel EVAP purge valve, leak in fuel vapor hose. This code can be a pain, start with the gas cap. If ok vacuum test the purge valve, must hold vacuum on both sides. EVAP line needs to be inspected for cracks or loose fittings from the fuel tank to the canister, from the canister to the purge valve,and from the purge valve to the intake manifold.

Congratulation on the baby, on the new house and having a work shop is a good place to hang out and get things done. Your wife will have the job of her life in December.

No on the E-BAY. Went to a place near my house called Off Road Warehouse. I told them the price I could get it for on the internet and would pay cash so they matched the price.

What is your idle like, to high or to low?

I payed $300.61 + tax in May of 05 for a cheap stainless steel Magnaflow. I can see small rust spots at the tip.

I run the boost elbow with my edge. I hit 28psi wide open then falls of to 25psi as the gate opens. The elbow is just a fitting with a small hole on the hose side. Due to the lack of air flow with the small hole it takes a little longer for the higher pressure to build up in the actuator housing an push the diaphragm to open the wast gate.

Don't forget to check the valve guides.

Crack open a line at an injector and see if you get fuel spray when cranking, that will tell you if the vp is working.

My alter ego:evilgrin:

P0507 idle air control system higher than expected. P1546 A/C clutch status circuit low voltage. P1456 leak detected in fuel EVAP system.

Dripley, you'r right. [*] The PCM has 3-32 pin connectors. One of the PCM out put is "CCD bus (+/-) circuits for: speedometer, voltmeter, fuel gauge,oil pressure gauge/lamp, engine temp. gauge,and speed control warn. lamp." page 8E-19

If you have the factory manual go to pages 8j 18-20. All the info from the sensor go into the PCM and are then sent to the instrument cluster. Either the 50 pin connector at the PCM is loose/dirty, or the PCM is bad.The connector at the cluster is just a bridge for info FROM the PCM.

Sounds to me that you have power feeding the high beam and drive lights at the same time or the dip relay is stuck. In other words a hot (battery voltage) wire is feeding current to the lights. Trace the wire harness from the head lights and drive lights and see what they have in common,IE harness, relay, switches, ect, ect. Inspect the damaged area carefully. A test light, ohm meter, and wire diagram are helpful.

Might be best to pull the radiator out to clean it. The temp would go up when I pulled my 5er up 6% grade.

Wal-Mart oil for me. It's gone up here too. I bought 5 gal @ $8.88 just before a barrel of oil went to $150. Wal-Mart raised the price to $10/gal. When oil went down to $55 a barrel the prices stayed at $10. Now a barrel is hanging around $85 and the price goes up once more, go figure. [*] :banghead:

Check the rubber hoses in the system. Have a helper either a stick between the seat and peddle or person push down on the peddle while you inspect the brake hoses. Look for bulging.

Your mother and my mother must have taught at the same school. Now I get to watch my daughter go through the same things with her kids that she did to me. Things don't change, just the people do.

Just found this part of the forum. I've had a small Volvo repair shop for the past 17yrs in the San Diego area and have been ASE certified master auto tech for over 30 yrs. I would rather be camping, fishing, and hunting in the mountains but stuck in So Cal.

I 3ed the t-stat. A cheapo thermostat, 4yrs old, get it out of there. If everything else is good what's left. A temp sensor will either open circuit or short circuit and the CEL would come on.

I use the rubber hose because it can get around corners and behind things and right up to moving parts,IE a spinning pulley with out the hose smacking into the side of your head like a screwdriver could. As for the noise I'd wait until it becomes more pronounced. The wholesale people I deal with for a/c parts is 1-800-radiator. I know they'r in SoCal but I didn't see your location.

Try using 'vaseline' next time. I use it all the time to put turbo, radiator, and heater hoses on. A little in the hose and a thin coating on the fitting. I also use it to hold check balls and small needle bearings in place when I use to do transmission work.

On a fishing trip at Brigeport, CA. About 65' long and yes, you need a CDL in CA to tow doubles.