IBMobile

Unplug the Edge EZ and see if that makes a difference.

How about the two ground wires for the PCM. They are the black/tan 14gauge wires at PCM terminals C1 #31 and #32. They go to splice S126 before going to the right side battery. Here is a link to what I did to improve the grounding continuity. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115

Have you seen this in the FSM? NO LOW GEAR (MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR ONLY) 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 1. Test with DRBT scan tool and repair as required. 2. Valve Body Malfunction. 2. Remove, clean and inspect. Look for sticking 1-2 shift valve, 2-3 shift valve, governor plug or broken springs. 3. Front Servo Piston Cocked in Bore. 3. Inspect servo and repair as required. 4. Front Band Linkage Malfunction 4. Inspect linkage and look for bind in linkage

If you need another view let me know and I'll get it for you.

I like he color combination. It reminds me of a 1970 Dodge Hemi Super Bee. i

My buddy has a 72-73 P/U with a 360. I'll take some pic today and get them posted on Sunday.

@JAG1 and I use a fuse on our charge leads. Yes, I carry spare fuses under the back seat along with the other spare fuses, spare belt, spare hoses, and spare Timbo apps; I keep the spare tire under the bed. The fuses are not that "spendy" https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-Nickel-Plated-Fuses/dp/B07WLWVZBH/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.9FO_d7aRNEcZEswxEveToxpqTkwZPNUZ9OmptAnJJl9bsa9NNvs-9WH_6ipPNSGHAx4bAPaUiqqw-0Y-OfOgyk-jQ4t4ZlMbAF4TKwloFp9stxERb7pgLEcGUrRaIjNzIxCvrQO7vCZ2aFUn8kanURucLaokdQ_4z85Qc9d6M0DpVzJUMIQXrQRvMrcB84p0EEtvVdQEjEYYntbR3nc5XsZJL7U_rKpZVKzBBYlQpIxvfwkvzBGTbMR-SaHBLVI1u37zSo73o5yrnfxK7DydkHwa80jbjkqN7O3oxJ7CWvk.PEAtm4uj2VqWrJa6LgPRtP_atj6I-Xs6zlwOzAgBkdM&dib_tag=se&keywords=anl%2Bfuse%2B150%2Bamp&qid=1709919512&s=automotive&sr=1-6&th=1

Very nice, clean and now you're going to be a truck molester when you get it home.

pics and info please; year and milage also.

About the same as I see with my Fluke. I'd call this an acceptable level. If you need to replace the terminals then do so otherwise wait till they are needed.

If you drove the truck with the alternator disconnected and it still does it then you can rule out AC noise. Most likely a failing lock up convertor disk. Test right away; a catastrophic failure could take out the rest of the trans with clutch material debris.

military spec top post battery clamp

If you take it to a place like O Reilly auto parts they will only be able to volt/amp test the alternator. It's best to take it to a shop that rebuilds starters and alternator for a more Indepth test; call first to be sure they can do that type of test.

I think that apps is worn out and you can't teach an old dog new tricks with a reset. Go to the Mopar1973Man store and see if Mike and help you out with a new Timbo apps In my truck I've done all the mods for the charging/PCM/ECM systems along with new alternator brushes and diodes. The AC voltage measured at the B+ terminal on the back of the alternator is ~ .025-.03V. The truck has never had a convertor lock/unlock problem. If you're going to pull your alternator for a bench test, then it wouldn't hurt to pull the batteries, at the same time, for a load test.

This was tried a few months ago with you, me, and @Doubletroublelogged on. I could get the audio but no video at that time. I think with every ones busy schedule trying to get more than a couple of members to participate is like herding cats. One on one face time seams more feasible for a Q N A.

Yes, the yellow wire supplies 12V to terminal 86 of the starter relay when key turned to start position. I think you found the problem in the ignition switch.

Power all the time at terminal 30, good. Power at terminal 86 when key is turned to the start position, good. Terminal 85 shows continuity to ground, good. Terminal 87 is grounding through the starter motor solenoid. good. Since you have been starting the engine by using a wire direct from the battery to the solenoid the starter motor is then assumed to be good. Using a jumper wire briefly connect terminal 30 and 87; the starter motor should engage. If yes, then relay is bad. If no, then there is a problem with wire/connectors between terminal 87 in the PDC and the starter solenoid.

This is the relay when not energized. This is called a NO relay or Normally Open relay. In this application terminal 87, when energized, sends battery voltage to the starter solenoid.

Key on or off there will be battery voltage at the fuse and terminal 30 of the relay. With the key turned to the start position there should be battery voltage at terminal 86 of the starter relay. Check terminal 85 of the starter relay with an ohm meter for continuity to ground.

Those are peas you were walking on.

This should help

Have a wonderous day

Good to hear. Take your time on that road to recovery.

May good health envelop you, spurring a quick recovery.

Same thing happened to me. Brakes got smoking hot coming down a grade between Banff to Jasper Canada. About 6k miles later I was changing the right wheel hub when visiting @Mopar1973Man.