IBMobile

I have one as a spare under my back seat.

Some places you can't. It's BTU rating is just below oak. The tree is an invasive species. It is a fast growing tree brought here from Australia by the rail road to make ties from it. They found that it was not good for that because as the tree grows the trunk twists. I don't know how the free range chickens will win; looking at that would kill any pecker.

I finally got firewood for my wife's winter ambiance. My son and a worker went and got 4 truck loads of eucalyptus that the utility company cut so it wouldn't touch their high voltage lines. Two loads were cut last week and two loads were from 2 years ago so that will be ready to burn. Now all I have to do it get the grandkids over here to help split it. Another 2000 24 valve pulled up to get the free wood. My truck is on the left. My son Web (on the left) with Raphael unloading.

I've replaced the solenoids without removing the valve body. Unplug the electrical connector at the left side of the transmission and clean the area around it Remove the oil pan and filter. Remove the governor solenoid and transducer. Remove the 3 screws holing the overdrive/TCC solenoids. Now watch this video on removing the 3-4 accumulator housing; the top of the accumulator is where the wire connector is attached. The screw that attaches it is different than the others, don't mix them up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D-ctMbta0-I The O-rings on the connector should be lubed so it will slid into the case and not be damaged. Install the 3-4 accumulator per the video. Now install the new OD/TCC solenoids then the governor and transducer and plugin them into the wire harness.. install new filter then pan with gasket. The torque on the T-25 screws is 30 IN-LB and pan bolt is 10 FT-LB. If you can let the truck sit over night so fluid can drain down before taking the pan off. You'll get more fluid out that way.

What number grit sandpaper and what is the solution?

Is the shift solenoid the same as the governor solenoid? Have you ohm tested the solenoid to see if there is a short?

You probably have some debris stuck in the fuel pressure relief valve holding it open. You will have to take it off and clean it out. This is a common problem when the Fuel Boss system is first used and it happened to mine and others here. You my want to install a 120 micron prefilter before the pump.

Here's @JAG1's initiation into the group with his bear at camp.

Me too.

You're right, there should be a way to keep the horn option for the alarm. Putting a switch in the black/red wire and running it up to some place on the dash would work. This would create an open/closed circuit between ,the horn relay and the central timer.

Thinking of selling...Go with 3 year warranty inexpensive batteries. If you sell the truck you've saved some money If you still have the truck after the 3+ years replace them again with 3 year batteries, you'll probably sell it by then.

When sitting in the driver's seat it would be In front of your left foot but on the outside of the firewall.

2 wheel drive front Hub Bearing HD2500/3500 Nut 280 Ft Lbs.

No, it's like what you've done to silence the alarm sounding the horn; this is just another work around. I think the only way to fix this horn problem, if the foil wrap doesn't work, is to replace the central timer module.

I gave this problem some thought and came up with cutting the wire to the central timer that grounds the horn relay.

Disabling Factory Alarm Horn Are you tired of the factory alarm horn going off with 3 honks (tamper alert) when unlocking the door or at other inconvenient times? The horn sounds when the central timer module grounds pin 85 of the horn relay. Here is a simple inexpensive remedy to stop the module from sounding the horn. You cut the wire to the module; the horn will still work at the steering wheel horn button but not with the door locks or key fob. You will need a phillips screwdriver, small wire cutters, and a roll of electrical tape. Remove the three phillips screws at the bottom of the panel under the steering column and pull the panel off, this will allow you to see the central timer module under the dash and to the right side. by joeld79 Find the C2 connector; this will be the white one. You can remove it from the module by pushing the small tab, located in the center of the connector, in and pulling down. Now find the black wire with red tracer that terminates at pin 18 of the C2 connector and cut it leaving about 2-3”; this will allow enough wire if you need to rejoin it at a later time. Finish by wrapping the ends of the wire with the electrical tape; push the connector back into the module, and install the panel. There are no guaranties implied or expressed. Written by: J. Daniel Martin AKA IBMobile 12/10/2019 View full Cummins article

Try checking the connections at the PCM. All of these codes have the PCM in common. The transmission codes also have the connection on top of the transmission in common, For the P500 after checking at the PCM check the connection at the rear axle speed sensor and the connector for the cab at the outside fire wall , lower left.

I have to agree with @dripley about the P1688 code. I think that's the code my VP44 set when it died. You should run the Blue Chip Diesel VP44 diagnostic tests to verify if the pump is good or not. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests This is how I've wired my fuel pump using the ECM as the trigger with no restore needed.

@JAG1, Sorry to here about your troubles with the HP laptop and @Alexio Auditore's problem with a slow operating system. I'm working off an HP Pavilion for the last 2.5 years, I know HP = POS but a customer gave it to me new in the box as a tip. I think it is a Costco special for around $500. JAG1, you mite have seen it on the table in my 5er when were camping . I use it for internet research for both my business and trip planning, streaming video to my flat screen, and has my repair manuals with wire diagrams; zero problems.

Who are you calling geriatric? I've seen @Ed ke6bnl's truck when I was camping last October. It is one nice clean rig.

You will have to remove the front oil pan bolts to install the pump's mounting bracket. When you put the bolts back in be sure to torque them to 18 Ft. Lbs. to avoid any oil leak.

Muffler shop...wield in delete pipe... inexpensive...done.