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@Alexio Auditore You should have asked him to super size that fluid change. He might have understood that then asked if you wanted fries with it. I've worked in shops where they would hire a guys because they had some tools and were breathing, he would be gone in a month because of poor production and to many screw ups. You should talk to the owner/management about this guy. His work ethics don't sound like they are the best. He can cause thousands of dollars in property damage along with serious personal injury and even death.

How do you get it to shut off? Check for power at fuse #9 on the left side of the dash. There should be no power at the fuse with ignition off. This fuse powers the PCM (pin#1) and the ECM (pin#5).

But your the 'Good Troll of the North'.

It's great that you posted your experience and are informing others of the danger. A year from now this thread will be 5 pages or more from the front and I don't think to many people will see the warning so I took your advice and edited the article changing the SS-581 to the SS-598 and adding a note about the SS-581. Thank you once again for sharing.

Thank you for pointing out a possible problem with the SS-581 solenoids. When I was researching the solenoid I found that the later Fords used the EEC to trigger the solenoid and needed the diode where the early Fords that used the SS-581 had direct current from the ignition switch. If the SS-581 solenoid has a dedicated switching circuit, from battery to fuse to switch to solenoid, then if there is a spike it can not effect anything.

Do you have 12v at the black/yellow coming from the headlight switch to the front park/turn signal assembly? Also ohm test the black ground wire.

I don't have a diagram for a '97' but in a '99' those relays and the transmission are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module. Check the ground wires for the Powertrain Control Module. They are black with tan stripe at the C connector pins number 31 and 32. They ground at the right side battery. They go through a splice and a connector before grounding at the battery.

I think you need to remove the engine wire harness, do a full inspection and repair any splices before condemning/replacing any more components.

22.2mV (0.022V) is a good reading. Yes

The 14 psi at idle is atmospheric pressure where a dash mounted gauge will show 0 psi. When I put my code reader in live data mode it shows the atmospheric pressure also at key on engine not running where the dash gauge reads 0. The ECM has to take into account the loss of pressure as the truck goes up in altitude so that it can decrease the fuel for a better burn. So what you are seeing is normal.

I think these will help.

Raybestos Pro Series intermediate band http://aftermarket.raybestospowertrain.com/pro-series-bands

So, does your trailer has the euro 13 pin plug and you need to wire the truck or is it the other way around? Can you use an adptor plug? https://www.towingandtrailers.com/products/trailer-parts/trailer-electrics/13-pin-7-pin-trailer-converters/

What is the amp draw on the system when just recharging the batteries or are you building this for an add on latter? 40 amps seems a bit high for just recharging the batteries and need 8 AGW for that load size. .

The lock up clutch failed in the torque convertor. There was no metal or clutch material in the pan so it did not burn up; it just would not fully engage.

Here's the build sheet and I upgraded the torque convertor to a Goerend 15SS Air temp 91°F Transmission fluid temp 165°-190°F Line pressure, transmission in drive : no throttle stopped 85 PSI light throttle 2ed gear 105 PSI light throttle 3ed gear 110 PSI light throttle 4th gear 120 PSI @ 2200 RPM W/O throttle 1-2 shift 180 PSI @ 2800 RPM W/O throttle 2-3 shift 175 PSI @ 3100 RPM W/O throttle 3-4 shift 150 PSI W/O throttle 4-3 shift 150 PSI 100% throttle 4th gear TCC locked @ 70 MPH 160 PSI 0% throttle 3ed or 4th gear TCC locked down hill slowing 100PSI reverse gear stall test 330 PSI This transmission is putting power down that was wasted with a stock build. I now have the power to the tires to brake them loose or tow my 5er with the boat behind it up an 8 mile 6% grade at 65 MPH with throttle to spare. Thanks Jon.

Get those headache tablets ready.

The OD/TCC solenoids come with all the internal wiring needed.

We need pics of the 5er and hitch.

If you build a few more of those then a name change to 'The pig man' will be in order.

Check this out.

@Mopar1973Man had an ABS problem. He changed sensors and wheel bearings with no luck. He found the left front wheel tone ring bad/loose.

Is that £ or $. What makes it "Euro truck towable"?

Have you seen this?