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The power for the solenoid comes fro terminal 87 of the transmission control relay.

The PCM grounds the torque converter lockup solenoid via the orange/black (OR/BK) wire when commanded. With the key on there should be battery voltage at the PCM connector C2 pin #11. If you ground the OR/BK wire the OD solenoid should be energized and torque converter lockup achieved. I don't see how the B+ terminal is involved with the torque converter lockup.

OK, rain fall 0.06 and windspeed gust 3mph. This weather station is .2 miles from my house. https://www.wunderground.com/weather/us/ca/san-marcos/KCASANMA411

Much ado about nothing here. Predicted 2"-3" of rain with wind 20-30mph. Advised: be storm ready, no unnecessary travel. Reality 0.02" of rain and wind gusts of 1mph. I'll be taking those 55gal drums of the 5er now.

My house is 11mi east of Oceanside.

Well, It's 9PM Saturday and not a drop of rain at my house just north of San Diego.

How about a bike rack at the front of the truck. https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/question-of-the-week/bike-solutions-for-truck-campers/

To find a specific noise I use a rubber hose about 5/16" x 3ft. You put one end against your ear and use the other end to search for the offending sound. The hose can go around conners and behind moving parts with no worries; if it touches a moving part, like the fan, it will be pushed aside with no damage to the part.

The red end to the elbow, the blue end to the wastegate. The manual controller's internal spring is very stiff. I shortened the spring to get a lower psi adjustment. About 30psi is the about the max boost a stock HX35 will produce.

From page 632 of the 2001 ram FSM: REMOVAL (1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. (2) Grasp the body of the door ajar switch with a pair of pliers and move the switch gently back-andforth while pulling it out of the door hinge pillar mounting hole. (3) Pull the door ajar switch out from the pillar far enough to access the wire harness connector (Fig. 3). (4) Unplug the door ajar switch from the wire harness connector. INSTALLATION (1) Install the door ajar switch to the wire harness connector. (2) Push the door ajar switch into the pillar. (3) Connect the battery negative cable

Which wire has 12V at the door pins (switch)? The way I read the wire diagram in the FSM, pages: 8W-44-3,4,5 and 8W-45-10, the switches ground the CTM and headlight switch.

The tan wire art the driver's door is the signal wire for the central timer module to sound the buzzer if the head/park lights are left on with the ignition off. The white wire at both the driver's door and the passenger's door switches go to terminal 13 at the headlight switch and are for grounding the dome light through the headlight switch. The black light blue wire at the passenger's door switch goes to the central timer module for door ajar in the high-line trucks. There is no power, 12V. to any of these wires.

Your door switch wire colors are correct with the black/light green wire at both doors going to ground.

I added an inline on/off switch with led light to my Pac Brake for more control. I didn't like the compressor coming on every time the ignition switch was turned on and also don't need the e-brake running around on city streets going red light to red light.

@Great work!wire diagram is spot on.

Should work fine . That's why there is a ground wire on the switch. You can always make a mock set up to test on the bench with a 12V power supply, a 12V battery will work. Test it before mounting it in the truck.

Red to battery power and terminal 30 Black to terminal 85 and ground White to terminal 86 Signal wire for fan motor relay to terminal 87 Do not use green and blue wire This will be a low amperage circuit used to energize a higher amperage relay used for the fan motor. Re

Go to the Dodge Cummins Articles, 24 Valve 2nd Generation section, then find the Part Number Lookup Tool as the first idem on the page.

Get a backhoe and a device that makes a small bang. Dig a hole with backhoe, make device go bang, fill hole.

I'm good to go with my set up. I'm starting to plan a road trip to Tennessee for April of next year. I'll leave the boat home.

U lucky man

"The spare tire wind up thingy" is the same for 1500, 2500, and 3500 Ram trucks. I grabbed an extra one of a 1500 a few years ago for a back-up. Thing is there is no rust in southern California so I don't know if I'll ever need it. I offered it to @JAG1 for his trucks but he has his chained up the spares under the trucks. The storage bin is standard in the "hi-line" SLT. PickYourPart in Wichita, KS. https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/inventory/wichita-1246/

My 2000 SLT has it. Bin, Storage; part number 05012913AA. Only available in a boneyard. https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-box-bin-storage~5012913aa.html

What if you get so old that you forget why you "place the roll in front of the instrument cluster display"?

Or it could be the cam on the steering column that cancels the switch. Used parts from a 1500 will work for replacements.