JAG1

If one fence post helps, Then maybe two would do even better.

W-T is the only guy I know that flosses his truck. Lol, its beautiful! and very nice write up BTW.

Dieselfuture how is it that I see a canister filter what looks like its under the turbo? And fuel lines don't run along on that side Is that a filter devoted to the turbo? Thanks in advance.

Good one. I have been saving curved pieces of stainless for future heat shield work. Even saving old ss percolators to cut in half. Dripley, I'm glad you took that well..... I thought I deleted it on time before I got in trouble lol.

I have been thinking about this, but instead of a 'wrap' just do a heat shield. Somehow make spacers that hold the heat shield with an air space and anchor well enough to not rattle. I too was surprised how fast trans temps rose hauling the rv up a long grade, but did not know the exhaust affected it so much. Thank you.

Excellent W-T.

Good ideas and I thank you for sharing.

I know you will find the problem. Start pulling one fuse at a time and see which one stops the draw. I'm a bit slow on electrical but w/ a good volt meter there is a way to set it up to see the amount of electrical load or draw on the batteries. I think the meter has to be able to read amps draw or load and is hooked up between the positive battery post and the removed battery clamp. Hoping someone will chime in here, but with a proper set up Volt Meter you will be able to pull fuses and/ or relays one at a time and find it readily.

I'm usually paying real close to 20 bucks a gallon and use Pennzoil or buy a full case of 1 gallon jugs for a good discount at West Marine. Lately I'm using the brand that O' Reillys sells called 'Mystik' if not mistaken.

Don't forget a good mechanical fuel pressure gauge if you don't already have one. Then you can monitor fuel pressure to stay above the critical 14 p.s.i. level. Make certain new VP got a new computer on top. I always gave my oe VP heavier doses of 2 cycle. It ran 4 yrs with the 0216 code and never quit. Was just a matter of time so I had Michael Nelson change it. I still run a little heavier doses than most recommend w/o any problem. I kept my oe VP so I have another to get rebuilt if ever needed. Not to stir the pot..... I don't like the walmart brand of 2 cycle oil. I could be wrong, but it seems like its thinned down, a little less like oil compared to other brands I use.

Good question.

Especially if the guys running higher horsepower start causing more days in a year. You guys is funny

Seems like push starting a Cummins would be enough force to affect the earths spin. lol Seems to me in High school I remember push starting a car so many times that you could see the differential loose and spin when they let out the clutch. It seemed to stop when the drive line reached the end of its length and held it from turning any further. By then the old car had started.

Blue smoke at start is normal till it begins to warm up is what a Cummins rep told me. The white smoke happens to me when its below 30* or so but goes away in about 20-30 seconds. Thats on my 01 with 204k on the clock. There is a bit of a hard start on colder mornings where I have to let it crank for a second longer. I know if I used the grids it would start easier and probably not see white smoke. My worry is more the injectors since I bought mine a year ago and never knowing whats been done to it. Makes you wonder

Good job getting the fire extinguishers. More the merrier on those really. Dan don't forget to carry an extra belt and pulley for the tensioner, some 50/50 antifreeze, new stat. things like that. Stay safe Bud and will see you around mid April. W-T supposed to join us for a day or so too, will make for interesting conversation. BTW, Anyone interested in good fire/ conversation is welcome to join us in the California mountains.

I am sorry I caused any confusion, I get AirDog and Rapter switched around at times. Best just to take the male adapter off and look inside the inlet. I got two RAPTOR 150's 9 mos. ago and they both had the tiny screen which I removed. The regulator on the Raptors now use a different style regulator, no more ball and spring since I pulled one apart and looked at it. It has.... best I can describe... a slide pin and spring.

I don't scientifically measure. I just guestimate how much to pour in. The biggest concern is the injection pump was designed for the old oily fuel, had greater lubrication, so adding 2 stroke puts it back to specs for its design. I just take a sharp pointed screw tip and thread thru the little screen and pull it out. You don't need a dinky filter like that just a stranded truck waiting to happen. Put on a real pre filter that seperates water out too.

Isn't it only the Fass that has the return line? I might be wrong in thinking Air Dog and Rapter Lift pumps are the same thing. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Did you remove the sediment screen inside the inlet side of the AD 150? Those tend to clog. Best to have a pre filter before the lift pump. Water seperating is the good one designed for the suction side of the L/P and you can then change filters whenever you need. Just 9 mos ago I put in a new AD 150 on a truck that had the in tank lift pump. to make it more effective I changed the draw straw and all fuel lines to 1/2'' lines. It stirred up enough dirt in the tank to clog the pre filter in only two weeks. Stay above 14 psi and remember to put in the two stroke oil.

Dripley, you supposed to be out working on electrical not smearing the butter all over the keyboard.

Welcome to the forum. We need more sheriffs...two thumbs up for you on your new career. Don't forget the 2 stroke oil for the VP.

I remember putting in a new combination switch in my old first gen. I went for the least expensive brand and it only worked part of the time for flashers blinkers wipers. I know this only distantly related to yours, so Just a thought.

Yes I plan on doing this. For now both trucks have a straight down pipe, but it messes up everything under there that you normally grab to help your creeper move around,

I would do the same thing out there.... have a winter rust rig and then also have a cream puff summer rig. That's the way to do it. I know it's best to run the dormant rig once a week using a high idle kit and a battery minder.