Everything posted by JAG1
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ball joints
I just paid $1400 to get mine done. Just so you'll get motorvated to work at doing it yourself and save that money. I suggest getting the greasables since mine were dry and rusty at only 65k miles. I am hearing from several other sources to avoid the Moog brand:stirthepot: and get the Spicer brand the ones made in Canada not the ones made in China. It will say on the box.
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OK guys, my engine stalling when the put in drive is back with the winter fuel blend.
Anything different happen if you push the button on the end of the gear shifter? You know, put in underdrive?If you can get the truck rolling in first gear..... what happens when you drop it down to drive after rolling?
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1st I've heard using STP in diesel fuel
Mike owns a huge block of stock in the company that makes 2 cycle oil
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Worried about my VP44 or why is the engine starting hard?
This may not be of any value but, after you go for a run of several miles and shut it down in a quiet place, open your fuel cap slowly. If you hear a hiss or air sucking in while removing the cap that means your factory tank vent is clogged or partly clogged. This has happened on about 4 trucks that I know of.Source Automotive, mostly work on CTDs, told me they've had a few trucks come in with fuel tanks starting to collapse. This condition will make fuel flow difficult for the lift pump to start the flow of fuel.
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Hardly anyone can believe.....
Thanks to everyone really, all good thoughts.Trouble is I don't have the energy on weekends after working all week. Plus I don't have good BJ removers and I've kind'a never done it before. It can be a bear with 'bullet balls' hittin' you know where.I have greased the BJ's each oil change but sittin' 3 weeks at a time may have something there.I have taken some very rough roads for many miles with the camper on it. I'm going to the Lithium grease from now on, if that's the best to not get washed out in rain splash roads.
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Hardly anyone can believe.....
Yes, thanks very much. Gives the idea there must be something wrong to cause such premature wear. But, What:shrug: though? Thirteen hundred bucks:spend:so early in the mileage of this truck........ is the pitsAnyone have any ideas that might cause this?
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Hardly anyone can believe.....
I need 4 new ball joints and 4 new tie rod ends at 65,000 miles. About 20,000 miles is carrying a 3,000 lb camper on the back. Could that do it? It's unbelievable to me too.Anyone ever heard of that before?
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Modification
It would be a bad deal if the brake pads got oiled.
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Modification
Haven't you guys ever heard of mud balls?
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Modification
Why couldn't a guy just run a down pipe that splits off into four tubes. Run each tube to just in front of each ball joint for lubrication and longer lasting BJ's. Then the next time you got to replace them they are easier to get out
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Spicer Ball Joints?? Good? Bad?
Thanks for asking because I'm wondering why they're out so soon too. I carry a heavy camper with stock tires and wheels. Plus have a 2'' leveling kit on it. May have something to do with it. Wish mine went 145 k miles because I'm beginning to think this truck is like owning a boat between the shocks, steering stablizer, AD 100, Vulcan big lines, draw straw, gauges, deep dish trans pan. All needed justto make the truck reliable.
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Spicer Ball Joints?? Good? Bad?
Thank you. I don't like the OEM since they are wore out in only 65 k miles. Not much for miles on those. I was hoping to hear the oem's are moog, something like that.
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Spicer Ball Joints?? Good? Bad?
They'll be on my 02. The shop wants to use Spicer BJ's. Is that cause they're less cost, Or because they are good ones to use?Thanks for any thoughts
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47 re not shifting out of 1st as well as hard cranking after vp44 replacement
Let us know what AirDog says.... a month ago I installed the AirDog and today for the very first time, (truck is used only weekends) got a short fuel drainback to the tank. Shouldn't happen. I know everything was tight from before.
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47 re not shifting out of 1st as well as hard cranking after vp44 replacement
Just a couple things.... Have you checked for an air leak on top of the tank?Tank vent clogged sucking fuel back?Injectors tight?Hope you find it.
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Finally got TV in the Jayco
Congrats on that TV.I know there is somethin' to it..... being able to camp way out in the middle of nowhere and watching tv. Always enjoyed those cowboy flicks after a good Bar-b que.
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No engine light on and have trouble codes!??
Need more info Mike.....I have a Raptor pump running off the batteries thru a 40 amp relay. Does that make a difference? I just found out also that after charging one battery, drivers side, the other that's paralleled is not getting charged because I put the charger on the passenger battery for the heck of it and it's been taking a charge for a few hours now. Please help:pray: as I cannot afford a new ECM.
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No engine light on and have trouble codes!??
Truck runs smooth as glass, good fuel pressure at 19, 15wot, 65k miles and got trouble codes 1693 and 230. What's with that everyone? I'll clear the codes and report back. Thanks for any help. Update; I checked the code list and it does not mean a bad vp. 230 means incorrect lift pump voltage from the ecm. I'm hoping it's just dirty battery connections. Now cleaning all battery terminals, checked lift pump connections and batteries still unhooked with headlight switch on to get rid of residual electricity in the system. Hope I'm on the right track here. --- Update to the previous post... I hooked everything all back up and still got code 230. Could be that I just have weak batteries? I know the fuel pressure drops when the grid heaters kick on and I did go cheap on batteries when I bought them 3 years ago with not enough CCA's for the trucks rating.? T.I.A.
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Oil Leaks...
When my CTD had 30,000 miles on it I noticed some small leaks. I found the oil pan bolts loose and tightened them to specs. No more leaks since.
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HELP!! No BUS and gauges quit working
X2
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Oil composition to change!
I think we are getting manipulated more by an evil system. Think how much added tax revenue the Gov't. receives from us having to pay for new trucks and/ or new engines. All the companies involved will get increased profits and therefore pay more tax. :spend::spend:
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Oil composition to change!
How can zinc be a hazard when it is an important part of our diet. Without it there are all kinds of health risks.They already screwed with the oil quality just a few years ago, now this. Why don't they go out and pick up roadside trash instead of screwing up peoples investments. I worked very hard to pay for my truck.EPA is going way off balance now. If they are going to cause excessive engine wear, think of the cost of frequent engine rebuilds.A study completed years ago shows that the more goods and services an economy requires, the more the volume of waste and environmental degradation in the end. So the more the Gov't. increases the cost of living the more exploitation of our resources to pay the increase. EPA is therefore a bunch of dumbasses and do not know what they are doing.To think years ago I applied for employment at EPA...
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2nd Gen Auto Transmissions
I have read posts from transmission guys that a power flush is bad simply because all the dirt and metal filings get stirred up or broke loose. Which is bad for the trans because once they settle in you don't want all that stirred up. In another way it 'shocks' the transmission is the term one guy used. Lots of sensitive parts I guess. Another guy told me even between regular trans services it's good to just drain out a few qts. from time to time and add more. He said that's a very good thing.
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Front end popping noise?
I read the polyurathane bushings squeak a lot unless you put lithium grease on them while you install them. It's the same grease for boat trailer bearings that won't wash away from road spray.
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What to do if PCM's and ECM' become impossible to find...
I am sorry I gave you a bit of worry there. I did not mean to do that. Just sitting here thinking about the trucks electronics... I wonder how much they really cost because I suspect they are probably built fairly cheaply inside. I am hoping for an electrical engineer who owns the same truck will figure something out some day. Sort of like what happened with the Timbo APPS. A guy just tried an Apps from a Mustang that originally cost 35 bucks. Was better Quality and when hooked up, worked better and turned out more reliable. He now sells them with the correct wiring and connectors for the 2nd gen 24's for a lot less. The Dodge computers are designed to fail at some point. Simply because they are most likely not built by a company like Sony or other quality maker. There is another aspect to the electronics that I often think about. Read a long time ago on another forum...... A guy with one of our trucks had his computer go out. The Dealer said that he needed a new one, but, instead of buying one, he had heard of a guy that can fix them for about 400 bucks. When he went to this guy, he would not let him see anything of what went on inside the shop and what was done, but, the computer came back fixed in a very short amount of time. Asking what he had done, the guy would not reveal anything of what was done. I suspect there is some kind of money making set up with these things. Naturally, I could be wrong, but, I do think of that story often.