JAG1

I have a high pressure pump and big lines all the way with F/P at idle is 20. Runs about 15 - 14 with the load up hills and about 16-17 on the flats. No hard starts, no funny colored exhaust.

The 216 code showed up before our last trip south hauling 3,000 lbs. That was a 2400 mile trip. Just got back from hauling a little more than 3 k on another 1440 mile run south. Code shows up again, but, the truck runs great.... I don't understand it .Thought we'd be stranded changing the vp along side the highway .What gives with these computerized trucks? Man alive.... fuel mileage is good too

Wow is right! My 92 CTD engine, W/ 360k, just went up in price But the truck is still there so I'll keep it. A lot of Ford guys do seem unhappy. I notice they tailgate a lot when they get behind my Cummins. Why don't they just trade in:shrug:

Sorry about knocking down the Moogs... I just read about a couple guys sayin' to avoid them for a couple reasons.

Knowing what a job this is I decided to have it done so I do wish you a good deal of luck. I think a lot of guys would rather the Spicers made in America. They have the ones made in China also to compete with other less costly BJ's. But the ones made in the states are supposed to last a lot longer. I say this cause my stock BJ's lasted only 65k miles and if I remember right I think I heard the oems are Moog. There is a way to get lower BJ's that are greasable. You take off the zirk tip and put in a bolt cap so it clears the U joints. When greasing you turn the wheel till the U joint gives enough room to place the zirk back on.

When I put in my 1/2" draw straw in I cut those screens out cause they are not like a changeble filter. They do eventually varnish up and clog. So having an accessable fiter before the lift pump helps with changing and helps keep sediment out of the L/P. It helps to keep the factory filter cleaner longer.

This on my first gen truck you guys. I think it's a copper radiator. I should have mentioned this but did post in the 1st gen forum. Does that change anything?

How many of you guys have had success with hot tanking the radiator and resoldered or whatever they do for repairs and stop leaks?Should I just fork out for a new Radiator instead?

Interesting...... my truck is from the last of the second gens. Built in October 2002 it has a second ground going to the firewall:wow:. Want pics??

Huh.... interesting. Thank you Mike and appreciate all the answers. So just watch the pcm and ecm grounds real well. Clean emery cloth them each year right? Oh Mike, there is another ground from the PCM to the firewall. Its on the engine side of PCM.

Okay, so my only concern left is the lift pump activation relay..... Is there any benefit to getting activation from another source other than the ecm even though it is just activating a power relay? On a side note, I looked for the pcm grounding to the passenger battery. I have 3 cold air intake hoses and the stock air box in the way. I need the BHAF to eliminate that and be able to see in there anytime.

Would there be any advantage to running a separate heavy ground cable from the PCM to the negative battery post? Would it help/ possibly save the PCM in the event of any future electronic abnormalities?Second; How about an external voltage regulator using a mechanical type regulator. I say mechanical type because if it starts acting up all you need do usually, is emery cloth the contact points. It is also has a feature of being able to adjust the voltage simply by adjusting the spring screw.Third, is it possible that the ECM Could avoid future damage if it did not have to run the lift pump and/or the AD Raptor relay? Asking because I would use an oil pressure switch that would kick in the AD Raptor pump without the relay.I thank everyone for any thoughts. Maybe going the wrong path, who knows?...... just need input from the experts.

Too bad it all came back. The only thing I can offer is to check all the wiring connections, grounding Esp. the computer ground to the firewall, and so forth.I don't know if the passenger side battery is like my 02, anyway look for two grey factory connectors on the wires coming off the passenger battery wires. I think one goes to the computer, but make sure they are clean and fitting tight. I eliminated the connectors and soldered them together with shrink tube when I heard of another guy solving similar issues that way. I also added a heavier ground cable from the computer to the firewall and have not had any problems so far. Knock on wood.

Hey, How is it goin'? Keep us updated. Remember to always get a second opinion before giving your wallet to a dealer. That's why we all try to help out around here.

I'm noticing a lot more people keeping a loaded pistol near the front and back door. I knew a guy that said he has a loaded gun within 10 feet of where ever he went in his house. I'm now keeping my gun where it's handier. It's always been unloaded upstairs hidden in a drawer. :lol:I'd like to invent a trap.... come home and find you caught some of these guys.

Did they put in a new solinoid plunger on the rebuild? I'd bet they did. I think your problem is still with the starter and/or connections to it somehow. Could it be from what you test as good cables but with a lot of battery draw the starter slows down from a weak spot in the cables. Test your battery voltage before and after an attempted start. If the batteries are drawing down very fast there is a short inside the starter.I think it's still the starter to be honest, but, don't go pulling it on my account anyway, till you check every thing connected first.

Flagmanruss, thanks for the good ideas, thoughts. Some good reading and gets one thinking about different types of security.

Okay..... I got a question for you. I own a gun too, but, am interested in how you would handle this particular situation, happened at my place the other night. I live on a dead end road behind the other small ranches. I drive thru one on a easement road which makes up about 2 tenths of a mile to get to my house from the road.Okay, so about ten pm. a strange car drives in very quiet. They stop behind my rv and sit there. They did not know I was inside the rv. I open the door and try asking what place they are looking for. No answer, they just drive off hurriedly with my dog chasing the car. Trying to get back to sleep, about a half hour later this same car drives in again, very quiet and approaching the house and rv again.This time I opened the door and yelled out, 'who are you people'! They peel off with long patch in my gravel leaving a big cloud of dust.:mad:Within seconds I get in my truck, get out to the straight away and go about 65 and barely caught which way they went at the main road. I was too far behind to catch up to them. This means they had to be doing about 80.What would you guys do? Myself, wife and daughter were upset about this and couldn't sleep well that night. Were thinking alarm system with cams and a gate (expensive). I'm thinking a paint ball gun might be handy but, then your inciting them to pay you back sometime.

When it sat for three years was it out in the weather? Might drain off some fuel and look for water and algea. Try getting a sample off the bottom and Change your fuel filter(s)That's a good name for my wife..... ' Miss firestall'...... Don't tell her .... she'd make darn sure my truck would never run again.

CSM, Do you know where this guy went with his tools? Or his name perhaps?I bet Cummins might know about these tools and has them. Thanks for the tip.

That's not bad at all and how long do you go between oil changes?

draught, What brand of synth are you using without the leaks?

Does anyone know what the VP44 requires in Gallons Per Hour fuel flow on a stock engine? Doing a search gives conflicting info with nothing available from Bosch.Filters are rated in flow amounts per hour, not the psi.Mike, you said 45 GPH is enough, forgive me for beginning to wonder about all this, but, even our stock filter on the engine may not be rated for enough flow. Look at the restrictive banjo fuel system. It wouldn't be the first time I could be wrong on something like this, But why isn't this information available on a Google search from Bosch?Some guys are saying we need to increase the size of the return line too.

Slow death perhaps. Then does 'Doctor Nelson' prescribe heavier doses of 2 cycle on this one?

MnTom......I respectfully disagree as the synth jeep had many many more leaks than all the others I looked at. The one I bought was very clean. The guy using the synth said he was using Mobile 1, if that means anything.I have a dino oiled 92 CTD w/ over 360k and no driveway drips. I know cause I park over expensive concrete drives every once in awhile and get asked every time.