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CUMMINSDIESELPWR

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Everything posted by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

  1. i went with oem cummins mains and clevite HD rod bearings
  2. my raptor 150 failed about 2 years after i bought it. it would fluctuate severely when i drove to the mountains (colorado) one day i heard it making this god aweful noise (bearings failure i think) and i replaced it with a fuel boss. 3 or so yrs later fuel boss is consistent and zero issues. i still have the raptor 150 ill eventually tear apart and rebuild if possible, use it for a transfer pump of some kind.
  3. So mike where did you get your current pump from again? and did it have a new board or used?
  4. what new pump? electric or fuel boss?
  5. pull the pan, turn the crank over and inspect the bores from inside. check for any rod play lateral and vertical. you can also check for wrist pin play too.
  6. listened to the vid again with headphones and it sounds like piston slapping in the bore, check the bores for roundness/wear or you might just be rebuilding to teardown again.
  7. i listened to the vid, its something dealing with the crank/rods/pistons. its a faster rattle than valvetrain. possibly wristpin bushing or conrod bearing?
  8. there is a setting for tire diameter, ive had the edge alert for high speed over 150 and i was driving like 80 or so. its for 1/4 runs etc etc in the edge. look around in the settings for defuel at x speed and bump it to max
  9. if you have any questions about rebuild, tips and tricks, let me know i just did mine 6 months ago. i will say this, the engine was easier to mate to the tranny than the tranny to the engine, 1st try in less than 10 minutes and the splines lined up and they slid together. basically i wasn underneath and directing my friends where the engine needed to go and how much, i lined up the gaps from the bellhousing and the engine, gave the driveline a bit of a twist and pop there she went.
  10. i have a juice with attitude, rv275 sticks and on setting 5 i can bury the psi instantly if i want. I have the juice to defuel and alarm @31 psi... I feel no need to go above that for my driving habits
  11. two switches, one on the accumulator, the other is on the outlet tube right at the back of the compressor. i recently tested mine and troubleshot by paperclipping the plugs to the switches closed which closes the relay, i got 12v to the clutch plug. i tried hot jumping the clutch directly from the battery and nothing so i get to replace the compressor
  12. appx 165,000 when mine went out. its how i found this site
  13. i had a similar thing happen, the carrier bearing got worn and walked the whole driveshaft forward out of the cradle.
  14. i removed the electrical LP on mine as there was a wiring issue, to prime the system i just ran a cordless drill on the fuel boss and it primed instantly being lower than the tank, ill rewire the electrical LP to be on a manual switch if i need to use it for any reason
  15. ive had mine on through 3 winters now and no issues, over 20,000 miles same belt the seller has his original one on for over 100,000+ miles on original belt. pay $600 once and be done. spare belts are $6 and i bought 2, prolly never need em
  16. i had a raptor and it failed after a couple years. i went with mechanical pump and wont look back again.
  17. timkens are very worth it and good bearings too
  18. i spent 5hrs beating my DS hub out it was bonded into the carriage badly. i ruined it by doing so, but anti sieze wont let that happen again! i tried all the tricks... nothing worked, cept beating and prying
  19. its either take the head off or get every piston tdc...
  20. i used larrys rebuild kit and mine still runs strong. i only had to replace the contacts and i still have the brush assembly to use new
  21. make sure when you rebuild the vac pump you get the seal sleeve to steering pump collet pushed in the same depth as before or the steer pump wont bolt back up
  22. ill be rebuilding mine soon and ill do a write up on it. there are plenty of youtube vids about it but im detail oriented and like taking good pics so ours will be good, overall its very simple as long as there is no damage to internal parts
  23. thats the one mike i bought the inexpensive tool from cpp and it worked fine and much less cost