CUMMINSDIESELPWR

teah they were when i tapped the keepers loose but it didnt take much, not enough to damage anything, i would be confident doing it with the head on as well, just take your time

i have a write up and video in the article section showing how to do the seals (with the head off) but its the same as if the piston was tdc

i pulled the entire engine out to redo mine haahhaha

pull the head already, have the head pressure tested and inspect the pistons. dont throw anymore money at.

interesting...

how positive are you that its coolant and not the banjo bolt on the back leaking diesel? just asking

does this happen from cold or after it gets to temp?

just fyi if you didnt know, put any additives in first so when you fill, it gets blended in the tank. putting them in after leaves untreated fuel at the bottom for the pickup tube...

id toss in a different pump, its the last thing to be changed...

just a wild thought... is there an extra copper washer in #6 by chance? just throwing darts now...

i dont remember seeing if a borescope has been used to inspect the cylinder and piston crown for cracks or holes burnt through. it would make sense if there is a miss or dead cylinder/partially dead cylinder.

im running 35's with stock rear and 2"spacer up front.

yup both correct

i run 35's on mine with a 2" level kit and i get rub on lower arm at full turn. you will rub a lot with 37's and either a lift or fender trimming by the door and spacers to not rub control arm

yup real pita

i think i have the moog uppers and greasable lowers, no issues with them after bout 10k+

when i rebuilt my engine i checked that very theory about the pump gear jumping, its very close to being able to but no matter how i couldnt get it to skip. i still stand strong on DONT TURN ANYTHING OVER until pump is back in place. im not saying it cant happen though.

is that on a shortbed? a longbed like mine the shock sits further back. thoughts?

i broke multiple tools and a press doing mine

even from bone empty? so you put the refrigerant cans in hot water sitting upright and let them fill? or let them sit in hot water then turn them upside down and fill

Ifhull lack of fuel flow through the vp causes over time a transistor to heat up and fail. below is what many say is the fix but none of us has tried it yet. at 3:45 on first vid he starts talking about it. then 9:05 shows the transistor that fries. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Efwk_lER2g funny thing is that his transistor has more wires going to it while the one below has less... the second vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUq-d_HbGu0 when mine goes belly up, i will attempt this repair as im very good in micro soldering and such. But i will remove the whole pump and not take it apart like the guy in the first vid did.

i had to replace my wet line during rebuild. i started refilling but i cant get the compressor to kick on. may have to manually trip the switches to get it flowing.

since you still have the bed off the frame, is it possible to put another full size fuel tank on the passenger side and mount it up? Given of course that i would have a stack out the bed of the truck. I am thinking of doing this one day to mine and figuring out the plumbing later for a AUX fuel tank.

johm, i sent you a PM. lets talk!

I listened to my truck yesterday and i can hear one banging softer than the rest and one banging harder than the rest. also #6 seems to have a tick or preignition tick before main injection. gonna have to take them out send them off to be torn down and cleaned then tested and calibrated. i may have debris from the rebuild making one drip or pi$$ if it continues ill replace the inj pump and be done.