Doubletrouble

Typically that is what I do also. I like to just check things over at least a few times a year

I'm asked frequently why I consistently "tinker" with my truck even though it's running good, no maintenance issues to address usually, just want to flip the hood and stare in amazement sometimes. But, this time I spotted something while I was installing a BHAF this morning. The lower exhaust manifold bolt on the rear cylinder was backing out! I grabbed the tools and tightened her up and checked the rest. The upper bolt on the rear cylinder was about half a turn loose as well. All the others were fine. Glad I caught that!

I'm asked frequently why I consistently "tinker" with my truck even though it's running good, no maintenance issues to address usually, just want to flip the hood and stare in amazement sometimes. But, this time I spotted something while I was installing a BHAF this morning. An exhaust manifold bolt was backing out on the bottom rear cylinder. Had I not "tinkered" with the truck this morning I would not have spotted this and possibly lost the bolt all together. I tightened this one down and checked the others. The upper bolt on the same cylinder was about half a turn loose, the rest were good. Glad I caught that!

I finally pulled the trigger. The OEM filter had to go. It's been on there the 3 years or so that I've owned the truck. Filter minder wasn't showing anything but it was filthy anyway. So it was time for a BHAF. I had to replace the air filter anyway so why not upgrade?

I got my injectors from @dieselautopower they came with everything needed to install. I reused my injector tubes, inspect them before putting them back in.

Looks pretty good

I would do injectors first and soon. If those are truly OEM factory injectors they're way past their service life. Typically injector life is 100-150k miles.

Is it possible the impact on the door could have slightly pulled in the panel which holds the striker? And BTW, welcome to the forum.

Before long cash as we know it will be gone. All virtual money for us citizens, the elite will hold the gold and other precious commodities. More control from the elites. That's all it is. It won't change until something monumental happens.

Sure it was just "A" beer lol

I won't tell you to drive it or not to, that's your choice. But, I don't think anything will get better while driving it.

Yes, to avoid throwing an over boost code. I failed to mention I'll have to get a foolproof to avoid that. I also think you would have to remove the oem elbow to get full flow through the hose to make the controller effective.

Thanks! I have the 100hp injectors now. I want to get my gauges installed then increase boost. I'll look those up on ebay, I like that they can be adjusted. Most other elbows are either preset or have a tiny set screw that I wouldn't really trust anyway. I'm thinking with the injectors the added boost would compliment the extra fuel and maybe gain a bit of power when I'm towing the camper. No tuner here yet. Lol Also, at what rpm do you normally hit you max boost? Curious.......

@Tractorman, I was kinda thinking the same thing. Im wondering if it was installed maybe a luttle off one way or the other and once it warms up enough to change timing settings its in phase just enough to run properly? Definitely seems like a timing issue. The only way to change timing other than programming would be to change it at the keyway and gear I believe. I am just speculating since I have never removed a vp yet myself. In doing some reading while sitting here with my coffee. I found that the number on the key and on the pump must match. The key is mated to the pump during calibration and sets initial timing. If the key is mismatched it could throw the timing off enough to cause an issue. You may want to pull that vp and double check key/pump numbers. @Mopar1973Man might chime in on this theory soon also.

That's the first I've seen one of those. Hmmmm I need more info, anybody using one of these things? Do they just install in the boost hose that goes to the elbow?

That's the way mine installed as well. Even showed why in the video I think. The led chips need to be in a certain orientation to obtain the proper light dispersion to the reflector. So far I am happy with mine. They're bright, probably at least 3 times brighter than the plain halogens I had in there. I have not had any oncoming drivers flash me yet. On high beam they seem a bit to high, might try to adjust then down just a touch to see how it affects both high and low.

Did the driver make it?

Not sure what that is in USD but seems like the duty and other fees add up for you fast.

If his efforts to "fool" the ecm with resistors in the twmp sensor circuit does work then great, but why would the ecm vary timing so much below that temp?

I see a friendly competition in his future. Lol

Might have been.

Yes, I agree! We try to maintain a healthy, productive environment here. No bashing people for not knowing something. Nothing like that is acceptable here. Like @Mopar1973Man stated, there are NO stupid questions here

Not sure I believe it but I'd sure like to see it happen! We're they talking about maybe in 2024 and the next election?

@Brandon Cooper, you have come to the right place! Here youll find a lot of great information, experience and all around nice people to help you through anything from maintenance to major repairs. Welcome! Glad to have you.

I would love to come but unfortunately that's a very long trek from Ohio. If @Mopar1973Man makes it maybe we could plan a conference call or video chat of some sort.