Doubletrouble

I've noticed that as well. Some of the Cummins guys around here will even wave a hand at you kinda like when I'm on the motorcycle. It's sorta like a family you've become part of by having a Cummins. Some of the ford diesel guys around here though, if they notice a Cummins they tend to try and show off a bit and roll coal or run up the rpm's so the turbo makes more of that strange flutter that ford's make. They can show off all they want, when their trucks dies from all the build up of soot and constant flogging of the go pedal for no reason mine will still be on the road doing it's thing. My son's brother in law has a newer duramax and brags that he's done this and that to it and it has XXXhp and such. I told him mine is basically stock and will keep it close to that set up for along time (other than a few things). He is on his second duramax, I'll have mine long after he buys his 4th or 5th truck. Lol

Is there a way to mount one of those on the hood of my truck!? That's awesome!!!

Bad thing about semis is typically you don't have the acceleration to pass the dummies in front of you. I used to when I was an owner/op but company trucks now days are all governed, like now where I work they cut us off at 62 on the pedal and 65 on cruise. That would be awesome!!!!!!!

I'm not afraid of it, just don't like it anymore. I've been driving semi trucks for over 20 years, I've seen my share of stupid out there. I used to be like you, everything was a fun challenge. It's worn off now. Lol

I give you props @leety, I would not spend a single second in the greater L.A. area! For some reason weather it be the For Only Retarded Drivers as @Mopar1973Man mentioned or shear coincidence, nearly EVERY time someone does something stupid near me on the roads they're driving a ford. I don't know why that is but I've grown to be more cautious around ford's now. It's crazy. And regardless of what people are driving most are just plain stupid, self centered, ignorant, entitled, more important than me total prix! I tend to be very passive while driving these days just because it will get my blood pressure soring. I won't let them idiots affect my personal health like that. They aren't worth it. Rant over?.........maybe. lol

You would think they would make that bearing with a zerk fitting to grease it. I think they have aftermarket ones that have them. Anyway, I'll try that and check for temp. I'd still have to do near the same amount of disassembly just to replace the rubber isolator I believe. If I have to pull the entire drive shaft I'll clean the slip yoke and re-grease, change the carrier and probably paint it while it's out. I'd like to just replace all the U-joints while it's out as well but money is tight. I already have the paint. Lol

@NIsaacs, I'm thinking it may just be the rubber part that has deteriorated honestly. Won't know for sure until I remove it though. Unless there is a way I didn't think of to check the bearing while in place?

I tried switching to the "max" setting yesterday to try the recirc theory. It works. The vent temp went up shortly after switching which was expected. Then slowly got warmer since it was reheating the same warm cabin air. So, this does work, I didn't not however hear the a/c compressor cycle but it was a chilly 25° outside. Just thought I'd update my findings.

Yes it can be triggered by multiple issues. Mine came on when my 150amp breaker would trip and voltage dropped to low.

There is an oil pressure gauge in the cluster, I don't believe there is a light?

I'm thinking it may have been replaced before since one of the strap clamps on the rubber boot is now a hose clamp. A buddy has a press in his shop. I'll most likely press it on myself. I would rather do as @Mopar1973Man suggested but right now money is super tight. A cheap bearing will only be a bandaid for now. I will go back in the spring and change all the U-joints and replace the bearing with a better quality part. No point in having a heavy 1 ton truck with a weak drive train. Normally I wouldn't skimp on such a thing but at the moment my options are limited. No so sure the last one was installed correctly. Shouldn't the rubber dust seal be up against the metal seal at the end of the DS tube?

There is a Meijer store on the north side of Toledo, ohio that has 6-8 charging stations for electric cars. I believe there are probably more electrics around here though since it's mostly flat land in this area. In hilly mountainous regions I can't see them working out well.

@IBMobile, would that be the same for a 3500 then? Took me a minute to figure out how to use that look up tool. Not enough coffee I guess. Can that be replaced by only removing the front section of drive shaft or is it a must to drop the entire shaft t-case to rear end?

That would be my luck @dave110. I won't be able to do much with it until the weekend. Hope it's ok to drive a bit longer. I won't be towing or hauling anything. Just going to the inlaws for Xmas.

So a graphite cable.lube would be best. I may have some for my motorcycles. I'll have to look. Thanks.

Also looked them up on rock auto, they show 2 different ID measurements. Not sure which one I need. Don't think I can get a caliper in there to measure it.

The AD would be the air dog pump/filter system listed in your sig. I to am curious @dave110 how he would get a water in fuel.light with the oem filter deleted. Glad you made it home at least.

Did you make it home or are you stranded somewhere?

So, I've noticed a bit of a low frequency vibration lately, usually just after shifting in to 5th gear at roughly 50-55 mph. Today I got under the truck to check my suspicions and sure enough the carrier bearing is shot. Grabbed the drive shaft yanked on it to see the slop around that bearing. Has anyone used the cheaper ones from say O'Riley auto parts or advance auto? I don't want to spend alot right now since I haven't worked in almost 8 weeks so have to stay on the cheap end for now. They both list one for around $25.

Did you prime the system since you drained the fuel filter? Cycle the key 5-6 times to refill and prime? How long did you drive with the water in fuel light on?

Is there a way to.lubricate the parking brake cables?one seem to work ok but do have a little sticky feel to them.

That was another issue I had with the 1999 suburban I had mentioned earlier. The frame had some serious rust from under the front seats forward to the engine mounts. Terrible. Had to patch in some metal to strengthen it. First things I looked at in my dodge was the frame and checked to see if it was the infamous "53 block". Good on both fronts so I jumped on it. So far she's been a great truck, has some minor issues. It is a basic work truck with no options really. It was worked for the short 138k miles that were on it when I got it. I'm just working on catching up on some maintenance that should have been done. As far as I can tell the oil was changed and I believe the vp44 was replaced along with the lift pump which is now a fass ddrp. I feel I have a great low mileage platform to do pretty much what ever I would want in the future. My plan is mainly upgrades for reliability with a little extra power.

Yeah I believe it. I checked the tracking on my part, it left detroit yesterday at 9:40am, now all it says it it's in transit. Detroit is only 50 miles north. Good Lord! I could have drove there to get it and been back, had it installed and done by now!

Also, make sure your parking brake is fully disengaged. The return spring gets weak and will allow the pedal to hang a bit. Mine does this so when I release it I will bump it up with my left foot as I release to make sure it's fully seated in the off position.

I don't think I can go to space, I don't have the right stuff.