Texas CTD

Nice! :thumb1:I hear they're pretty good pumps. Good luck!

Nice job, Mike.I did the same thing a while back, taking the tractor down the road, and then putting out some hay. But it won't let me upload it to my photobucket.

Same on the '98.

Info on the UltraGauge seems to be a little sketchy. (from what I've read)I'll probably end up getting the SGII. (from DAP )

I highly doubt I would need that anyway. . . Anybody know anything about the longevity of an UltraGauge compared to a ScanGauge? They both read codes, and they both monitor the same components, so I guess the best thing to do is go the cheaper route?

I finally have the extra cash. . . Scangauge or Ultragauge. . . ??? :shrug:Can't really make up my mind.

I'm thinking the valves were way off - the pump hasn't been messed with. 200K miles, 2nd owner, and to his knowledge, they hadn't been adjusted.

Speakin' of stock 12 valve smoke. . . My friend has a bone stock '96 auto, and he could lay into it, and blow solid smoke for about 2 seconds, then it would clean up. A few months later, he had his valves adjusted, not near as much smoke - just a haze.

That's a good thing.

Check over on the Cummins Forum. Occasionally there will be a guy with a set for sale.Also, keep an eye out on Cragslist.

ISX summed it up - couldn't have said it any better. . .

I was just thinking about sending a special "thank you" to Mike and the Mopar1973Man gang, and here you are beating me to the punch. Thanks Mike!

Updated the original post with a 4th link, providing some information on different turbo chargers.

I thought I was going to have to do the same thing. But I was able to force it out, then I got the grinder, and shaped up the end of the tank bracket, so now it slides in and out with ease.

Personally, I would step up slightly bigger than RV275's. If I ever upgrade injectors, I'm eyeballing the +50 HP DFI injectors, (quality injector that's dirt cheap) or +65 HP DAP injectors. (also great quality, and great price) I've heard a lot of people say that once you get over 75 HP injectors, you take a cut in MPG, but I think it goes back to how the person drives, because some folks use 7x.010's and gain in MPG. As I learn more, I might want to step up to a 7x.009, but I don't want to be blacking people out. (sure, I know, upgrade the charger, but I'm talking about cheap power, not an all out build)

RV275's are +40 HP.Some guys use 7x.010's (150's) and don't even sacrifice fuel mileage.I've heard the best injector for fuel mileage is between 40 HP - ~75 HP.

I think if that was the case, everybody would have this problem.

Is your drive shaft on the floor just so you could get the tank down?

How big of a hole?

Yes, I'd like to know. The problem is, new diesels are too dang quiet, so it's easy to put gas in them. You need a loud truck, and then you won't forget.

Just drop it slow, so you don't bend or crimp anything you're not supposed to. If you can afford it, I highly recommend replacing your fuel gauge sending unit while you have the tank down. I didn't, because I'm cheap, and luckily it still works. (and it's pretty dern accurate)

Parts list:(1) 15mm deeeep socket(1) 1/2" (or 3/8") ratchet driver & extension.(1) floor jack.(1) 2"x6"x~3' long board.I did it twice - once with an empty tank, and once with about 4 gallons in it. If a 140 lb skinny white-boy can do it, I'm sure you can.

If those are pre-turbo temps, then you're safe.

That's still a pretty big drop. . . I switched back to my 12 pitch crank pulley, and get anywhere between 9-12 PSI at idle - that keeps the pressure below 20-21 PSI, except when getting on it hard while shifting, but it still doesn't get very far past 20 PSI.

Nobody knows. . . Most people think they took what money they had and ran, before the EPA put the hurt on them.