Haggar

Rogan and Kerley,I am in similar boat. My cruise is also not working (more like Kerley's...)Hope to have some time soon to look at it.... Hag

Dodgethis,The vacuum pump / ps assembly is very simple. Don't be afraid of it at all.I usually take the whole assembly off as 1 piece. So much easier this way. Take the intake tube from intercooler to intake off for clearance. 3 bolts hold it to the timing cover, power steering hoses, oil feed line to vacuum pump, and one support bracket on the bottom. (this bracket must be put back on as you install the assembly, so don't forget to slip it in place as you re-install the pump.)Take LOTS OF PICTURES. It will help when reassembling. A few of the bolts are specific lengths. Take pictures of where they go.You can then put the assembly on a bench. When you take the p/s pump free from the vacuum pump you will see the coupler. I still think it is the coupler. It drags and provides a bit of power to the ps pump, but when you need a lot of psi, the coupling slips. At least this was how mine was damaged. GL Keep us updated!Hag

Dripley,Looks great!! Nice work and write up!!On the temperature, have you ever verified that the dash gauge is actually reading without an offset? You might need to use another method of temperature measurement. This gauge is fed from the PCM. Have you had a scan tool connected to see what the PCM actually "thinks" it sees as a temperature input? If the PCM is "actually" seeing this temperature, you might need to pop the coolant temp sender out, and check its resistance to known temperatures. Also, according to my wiring diagram, the power for the sensor is "shared" with the power for the WIF sensor. If for some reason that is drawing too much voltage, the scaling of the coolant sensor will be offset.Hope you figure it out!!Hag

Sorry I didn't see this earlier... I think you will find that the vacuum pump coupler is damaged. The guys here http://www.fixinrams.com/ are great to talk to. He feels that severe accidents like this do damage the vacuum pump assembly. Pull it off and take a peek at it. I think that is where your problem is. He said that he has frequently had to testify to insurance companies that this happens. (The vacuum pump is what drives the power steering pump which makes your pressure...) Hope that helps, Hag

Rogan,How did you mount the 500s? Did you use the original dodge mounts or make a new one?I too am looking to add fogs, thanks for your input. I was just going to add stocks back in, but now you have me thinking.....Hag

Glad you got it!!! You have to share what was missing, or was it just a loose connection.I don't have an auto, but my brother does. Early in its life, the trans went schizo and it apparently was the shift solenoids. (was it a wiring problem???? apparently the auto wants to be grounded well...) Could be your issue also!Good luckHag

You might want to go ahead and complete the wiring for the DLC (data link connector) and use a scan tool to make sure the CCD bus is communicating. I can envision some crazy stuff going on. (a friend and I have contemplated a Cumminsaurus. Would be a neat project.)8w-80-11 and 8w-80-12 are the C130 pinouts (daimler could have gone ahead and given the names for each wire too on that list...) but anyway, you may have to go through one by one and figure it out. (I guess you have found that page already though...)You don't have your shields grounded at both ends on the injector pump data link do you? (this can create a weird magnetic field and cause incorrect voltages in the wires from the surrounding field.)what does the ECM do with the oil pressure sensor information? (what state is the fuel shut off signal during normal operation? do other ECM inputs effect the shut off?) Sorry I am asking more questions than answering.Hag

Gonna add my $0.02 here (and it is really only worth what you paid for it....) Sorry just not an auto guy.If it is not the wiring/grounding/voltage problem like Mike was saying, these symptoms also sound like the shift solenoid problems. So you may want to research that. (hmmm wonder if the shift solenoid problem is voltage related...)GLHag

Ron, I am looking at my 01 schematic. Right now the only LG/BK wire I see moves through fuse 9 and (page 8w-30-36) feeds both the PCM and the ECM with switched power (run and start). One of the guys really needs to chime in here, but I believe the 24v will start and run (at idle only) with neither the ECM nor the PCM connected. (look here http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44_diagnostics.html) I am thinking that when you apply the power to bring the PCM/ECM online the system becomes aware, and stops running due to other wiring issues or bad PCM or ECM. HTH Hag

Diamond,Mine is leaking pretty darn near where yours is. (I still hate to say it, the name we will not name) While frequent changes are never a bad thing, according to the techs at my local Semi shop, the 6bt appears to frequently lose the nameless item on the passenger front corner or drivers back corner. They also asked if it leaked more pulling a load. So I am guessing it does show up more than rarely.....Let me know how it goes. I too am wondering if I should have the head looked at and valve job done whist it is off.Hag

a 5 or 10 degree temperature change does NOT make a 37% difference in the mechanical portion of the system. (fuel efficiency, power production etc) (We can fight that out but let's start a new thread.) What must be happening, some of the programming for the fuel and timing curve of the motor is based on "operating" temperature. As we slide in and out of this window, fueling must be changing. Where is this window and what are the parameters? Sorry I don't know more about it yet, but hope to soon. Hag

Krj,No the adapter is not available by itself from cummins. (that is why I was saying call the guys at fixin rams, he will sell you just the adapter if he has one.) In fact cummins looks at the vacuum pump as 1 assembly, no parts in inventory except for the seal kit. I found that out as I needed the coupling half that was on the vacuum pump side (not the ps side) that was how I found Gould gear and electric. They have all the internal parts from rebuilds and such, and make the parts that are unavailable.You did something wrong if the vacuum pump and ps pump was not easy to remove... you take it out as one assembly and it is really easy. The hardest problem I had coming out, was removing the ps lines. Going in, it was remembering to leave the bracket on the block loose, and rotating it into position as I slipped it back in.That being said, I see no reason you can't go ahead and pull the upper intake and apps out of the way.Check the cummins price on the pump also btw. Again I would get a rebuilt from gould if I had to.Hag

Sorry I didn't see this earlier!!! Give these guys a call: http://www.fixinrams.com/ Without a doubt, one of the nicest and genuinely helpful people I have met!!! Drop a dime, it is worth it. Hag I am cheap, so I would not replace the whole pump, but just the parts that are bad.

"I'm dreaming of a white Christmas!!!"Not yet, but would love to have some... (of course I was hoping for a bit of rain from the tropical that has turned off shore....) Rarely do we get white stuff in front of Christmas. And usually just ice storms... you can have those...Hag

99,I put an answer on the other site too, but I don't think you clobbered anything in the TC, you just may not have the TC shifter adjusted properly.Disconnect the shifter and move the TC input by hand and make sure it will go in the different positions. if it does, then the problem is definitely external.Hag

Thanks for the picture Mike!I guess I have never had the 1/2 out.... Would have been surprised by the liquid!!!!Hag

There are 2 factory plugs in the manifold just above the lift pump. IIRC one is 1/2" NPT and the other is 3/4"NPT. That is where I connected the boost gauge. (the plugs are hex type plugs)Back lighting, I used a littlefuse "add a circuit" on Fuse 5 (illumination circuit) This allows them to dim with the dash.HTHHag

Fire,Glad the build went good for you. Sorry you are still having troubles.I hope someone will chime in, but other than the borgeson, there is only one other box that I can't quite remember the name... I swear it is like redhat or redneck or something like that.LOl it is Red head. Try them. It seems like some have had good success with them.Hag

The 6.2 takes the block heater in the freeze plugs. Super easy to add. No excuse for cold starting.... ( I am pretty certain you can get to at least on freeze plug. If nothing else add a heater into the lower radiator hose. That is super duper easy.)Plowing is not all torque, but traction. You can have all the torque in the world, but if the tires are slipping....it just doesn't matter.Definitely extra cooling to the 1) transmission 2) flow to radiator (at least watch it like a hawk) 3) power steering. (especially with the diesels, since it is providing braking and steering!!!! Add a cooler!!!! (you just added 1k work to the steering axle, is finger spinning free?) 4) watch voltage.... lots of lights and low rpms is perfect situation to drain batteries. Have fun with it, but don't go in cheap (meaning you can't afford to fix the truck when (not if) it breaks), you will just lose your contracts (unless they are really good buddies...)Hag

ISX,I have that complete harness out of the truck if you want pictures. I am in the process of going to a positive lock on the CAD. I left the pneumatic switch in the TC though. Let me know and I can snap you some pics if needed. Glad OP found the problem!!Hag

Talk with Mike on the Exhaust brake. There was a guy that had them on ebay inexpensive. I think it is a direct bolt on for your truck. (I believe you have the V-band type waste gate.) they were cummins kits for dealer installs. I can't find my purchase yet and don't see them. grrrr.Keep watching. There are some nice banks kits relatively inexpensive, the pac brake seems to be the most popular and probably the new ones, the best, but pricey. For your truck should be basically direct bolt on. Maybe some exhaust work. GL Hag

Dude, I want to say "awesome", but that doesn't sound just right, especially if taken without regard to context!!!I am glad it is basically just the clutch though!!I totally understand upsidedown schedules!Good luck!Hag

Mine runs about 60psi cold, and 40 when fully warmed up.I run a lubriguard product, but will need to verify the viscosity at lunch. (viscosity can make a very large difference in oil pressures both at startup and at running temperature.)Hag

I hope its the clutch for you, much less hassle.I have only torn the center out of one. Most of mine failed in ways that you couldn't release them. (so didn't make noise but fun putting the car in gear at the light with the engine off, and hitting the starter, starting the engine with it in gear and adding enough gas to get it going and not hop.) Springs falling into the PP, broken fork, separating clutch frictions.The separating clutch frictions was what came to mind when you first described your trouble, but didn't explain your loss of motion. Good Luck!!Hag

Wow. It might be worth listening to before you take it out. Is the noise in the tranny or the clutch. I hope it is just the clutch. That is the simplest solution. I would do a good visual through the PTO covers. You might want to look at the 5th gear retainer. (search nv4500 5th gear fix, or 5th gear nut.) Not sure about the dowel pin or 5th gear ball? Make sure you put the correct fluid in!!! It is NOT available at the zones. You will have to get it from a GM dealer, Chrysler dealer or order it online. Good Luck!!! Hag