Yankneck696

I am starting to repair Quadzilla Adrenalines. I also hope to reverse engineer & possibly add new functions in the future, as the board allows. Here's the deal: 1. You ship to me In the box, I want a full description of the issues & history. I will require the box, wiring harness & controller. 2. I will do my best to repair & load any tune you desire & fully test to level 3 (as I have not upgraded my trans yet). 3. If the unit is unrepairable, I will ship it back or part it out for you for a 25% charge after fees & shipping. 4. I charge $25.00 per hour (check those rated against any electronics repair shop) plus parts & will confirm an estimate before any extensive repairs. I have a belief that the board is capable of alot more than what we have in software. I have a good friend that is a .net/arduino/android hacker/teacher & has been in the field since the late 70s. Please PM me with any questions. Just FYI, I have Michael's permission to post this here. Thank you, Ed Grafton - - - Updated - - - Also, this will be kind of open source. I will post repairs to this thread. If you feel capable, I will assist in any way I can. If you would rather me do it, I will. If anyone has an Adrenaline that has been converted to a 4K box, I would like pictures so that I can perform the conversion or assist others in doing it. Ed

With my 2001, I kept getting a code about something with the lockup relay. I researched it & found the resistor trick. Might just be 01 & up. Never got the code again. The convertor functioned normal with the switch off & locked up fine while on with both styles of wiring.Ed

Tap into the orange/black wire on the passenger side firewall. Run that wire to your switch. Run the other side to ground. Solder into the ground wire a Radio 33 ohm resistor, part #271-1104. You should be done if your connections are all good, you got the right wire and you installed the resistor facing the correct direction. That is from post#9 from here http://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-24v-performance/55735-tc-lockup-switch-help.html There is no difference in the direction of a resistor. Just wire it up like that & leave the relay in place. Ed

Yes, with the switch off, the torque convertor functions as normal. Be sure to do the switch with the resistor (33 ohm if I remember right). That way the relay stays & it throws no codes... Geekage factor is fun...Ed

The stiff pedal could be an aftermarket clutch.Ed

Due to my complete frrustration, I am going to source out the connectors for adapting my Quad Adrenaline to a 2001 MAP harness. I am wondering if it would be worthwhile to order the connectors in bulk & produce them.I have called each & every supplier on the internet that formerly sold Quad products. Not even a used harness on the shelf.If there is no real interest, I will just order the plugs for mine. If there is enough interest, I will order in bulk & produce a limited run. Under 25 pieces would be in the $40.00 range for a plug & play MAP harness. Let em know what you think.Ed

So, I took a chance & bought an Adrenaline for cheap in the classifieds that was "Stuck on PL00". Figured with my electronic background, I just may be able to fix it. I was thinking it might have been loose connections or somethiing simple (for me that is). After trying it on my truck, it was as advertised "Stuck on PL00".Took the control pod apart & the black & white wires (serial data) were disconnected. I soldered them back on (along with redoing the red & green [power & ground]) & it now changes levels. The way I see it is that the wire is a bit stiff and it looks to me like this one may have been tossed around a bit.Now, to fully test the unit & enjoy the fruits of my labor, I need the MAP adapter for a 2001 ( have the old style along with the DATA link adapter).Who has one that they want to trade or sell cheap? I also need the EGT probe & 3 wire fuel pressure sender.I would think that someone has at least the MAP adapter sitting on a shelf somewhere....Ed

Check for boost leaks ( search here for boost leak checker)Ed

At either Autozone or it's counterpart, there is a selection of about 15 O rings brown in color. I think it was 5.49 for the whole kit. 2 O rings & a couple dabs of vasaline & the valve is all rebuilt. Google it.Ed

It'd be a bit more expensive to use air bags, but install is alot easier & they are adjustable to the load. Ed

If you are planning on charging a decent sized RV battery bank, some of the regulators have a "Ghost charge" lead. Also, how I wired up "House battery banks" on boats, is to use an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) that seperates the house bank when no charging happens.Quote from West Advisor: " Automatic Charging Relays (ACRs, also called Voltage Sensitive Relays) are a popular method for achieving the same goal as isolators, but they work on a different principle. Instead of using diodes to block current from flowing in both directions, ACRs use mechanical relays combined with a circuit that senses when a charging source is being applied to either battery. When a charge is being applied, the ACR closes; and when the circuit senses that the charge is no longer present, the ACR opens (after a short time delay to assure that the ACR doesn’t open due to temporary voltage sags caused by load startups, like a refrigerator turning on). Automatic Charging Relays have lots of other uses in addition to isolating the Start and House batteries, and we offer a broad selection now from Blue Sea Systems and BEP Marine. ACRs can be used for load shedding, pilothouse navigation battery isolation, and charge current limiting for a remote battery." They are adjustable for high & low voltage cutoff. They can also be used for an emergency "Paralell" switch to effectively use the RV/spare battery to jump start (WITH LARGE ENOUGH CONDUCTORS). Ed - - - Updated - - - Here's an article that explains the basics of marine charging systems: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/WestAdvisorView?langId=-1&storeId=11151&catalogId=10001&page=Alternators#.UUhqmVeGm3Y Ed

THere are several 3 stage marine regulator systems that also have battery temperature thermocouples. Check West Marine's website for reference. THESE SYSTEMS END UP EXTENDING THE LIFE OF THE BATTERY, SOMEWHAT. **Durn caploks** They are also very stable & have full RFI supression, as an interferance issue on the open ocean can mean fatalities.Ed

Sorry, mine's the FRRP pump, but I did find this: http://www.genosgarage.com/installation_instructions/FASS_DDRP02.pdf Ed

You can adjust the regulator on that pump. It might be in the instructions, or their website. Mine was a bit low when installed & I cranked it a bit.Ed

A VERY remote possibility id that the axle tube may have rotated. Check where the tubes go into the differential housing to see if they might have spun. It should be obvious. The most likely culprit is worn spring bushings.Ed

I have the DDRP on my truck. Block mounted & 18 PSI at idle, 15 PSI WOT. No prefilter (seems to be not suggested for this pump). All I have is an Edge EZ.Ed

Check out this thread- http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/41978-nv5600-fso6406a-6-speed-fuller.html While the 5 & 6 speed are nice, the regular breakage of them is pretty annoying. The Fuller transmissions will last alot longer & the clutch is good for about 250K. Clutch is also only $400 - $500. Put it in one time & forget about breakage. Also, it's the same weight as the 6 speed that came factory. Ed

The 2nd gear lockup was in one of the 20-30 trans threads that I searched on looking for info on shift kits. Someone had the info on what to plug with epoxy, I think...Ed

As for the torque convertor lock up switch, you need a 33 ohm resister in line with the switch to ground to avoid the codes & reinstalling the relay. From my searching, there is a valve body mod for the 2nd gear lockup, but I havent seen one for 1st gear, as of yet.Ed

When fueling up, I always touch each rim (including trailer) every time.Ed

By my understanding, the computer changes the timing in colder weather for emissions. Fooling the computer in cold weather bypasses that programming & gives you close to summer mileage even with winter blend. I did the 143* fooler & got great MPGs across the country.Ed

Some vehicles have specific bleeding procedures. One common one is to put the whole front end in the ari & turn steering wheel lock to lock 10 times, then refill, repeat. Also, check if the brakes are working proper, as they are on the same system.

MAny cheaper DMMs need to be set into the right range. You need the K ohm range.Otherwise, they will just read OL (Out of limit)

I have a 2001 LWB SC 2WD 2500 with an Edge EZ, stock trans rebuild (will be doing tow/haul shift kit). My right side leaf pack has a broken leaf & will need to be replaced. I will also be hauling a 21-24' travel trailer from Florida to Utah. Should I just go with a pair of new replacement springs, or is there a better option?Thank you,Ed

From my 5 years in the auto salvage industry, I have used SS numerous times. Late 90's Saturns were a prime candidate, as the rest of the car was just fine. I used it in my Dodge Raider (3.0) & ran it for 38,000 miles with no issues.That said, if ANY fastener goes into the water jacket, IT WILL SHEAR !!!ONLY use this chemical on an engine you plan on throwing away.You will have to go to an old school pharmacist or druggist to get it. Walgreens techs will look at you funny.IF you do use it, you MUST remove ALL antifreeze & keep flushing it for a while. Pour it in WITH CLEAN WATER, run it up to temperature, let it cool, top it off with water, run it up to temperature again, pull the plugs (injectors for us), let it sit overnight, crank a few times to get any water in cylinders out, seal the engine up, run it for a couple days, COMPLETELY flush out the cooling system (longer than you think) & put regular antifreeze. REPLACE YOUR THERMOSTAT.It will work with iron or aluminum & a combination of both.If you are buying a used vehicle & see a white residue near the radiator cap that will not scratch off, RUN !!! It has been waterglassed.Ed