Ilikeoldfords

For one thing, the lift pump gets its power/signal from the ECM. Not the PCM. If it is using an aftermarket harness with the FASS pump it only uses the signal from the ECM to trigger a relay. There could be a problem with the signal coming from the ECM or the relay not switching right away. You might try changing out the relay and seeing what happens. If it is still using the stock lift pump harness, the pump is still getting all of its power from the ECM directly. Does your wait to start light come on right away or does it not come on until the lift pump primes?

While you are at it, you might have both batteries load tested. Make sure they are both disconnected from the truck though. Last winter I had a battery that shorted internally. It would drag the good battery down overnight. They both even showed a good 12.5 volts. The shorted one dropped straight to 1.5 volts during the load test. Note: This happened with both batteries less than a month old.

Well the van has about 160k miles and it has been actually flushed about 5 times in its life. Every single time it just turns to mud in about a year. Ever since brand new. Just kind of strange. The dealership even blamed it on the Dexcool. I believe you in that I dont think the coolant itself is at fault but it is weird.

When did they start doing the 2 key thing? Could have sworn Ford was the first. I am also not surprised that Chev had to push theirs. Typical.

It looks just like the new mustang looks just like the new camaro. They all have very similar front ends. I wouldnt mind owning one though. It would be nice to have a sports car with 4 full doors once in a while. They took the 2 keys idea from Ford I believe though. Ford came out with the Boss 302 Laguna Seca edition a few years ago. That also had 2 keys. One key was just the "standard" 302. The second key unlocks the beast.

My parents have a 2002 chevy astro van with the 4.3l v6. Every couple of years they have to do a coolant flush because the dexcool basically turned to mud. Is that because of the coolant eating through things then? The shops they used all called it Mississippi mud.

Just a quick question here. Wasnt Dexcool designed and used by GM? I thought that was always only used in GM vehicles. I know every GM product that I have opened the hood on in recent years all had a dexcool sticker somewhere near the radiator fill cap. Maybe I am just crazy?

I would really love to take the time and chase down some of the small leaks like that too. Mine never leaves a drop on the ground but the engine compartment is getting to be quite the mess. I know my pan gasket is weeping a fair amount and the tappet cover is starting to weep a bit as well. I changed the washers on the return banjo earlier this spring and that seems to have stopped any fuel leaks I had. I think its all just engine oil leaks now.

Yep with my tires I am only running 1800 rpms at 70 mph. Just about perfect for efficency as far as I can tell. If I didnt do do much highway pounding empty I would really look into going back to stock tires. I loose a ton of power it seems when I load down heavy. Them 35's and the high gearing really suck the torque.

You can easily get a fitting for the 3/8's line. That's what I did because I had already run the 3/8's line in my truck. I really just didn't see the benefit to running the bigger lines. Just about all of my pressure drop problems were related to running through the stock basket. Since the Beans sump install, even with the 3/8s line I only see about a 4 psi drop from idle to WOT when doing a WOT pull from stop to freeway speeds. Much better than the 12 psi drop before!!!

What transmission do you have? Just curious what kind of mileage you end up making with the comp. With my 6 speed, 35in tires, and 3.55 gearing I easily make 22-24 on the highway with the cruise set at 70. That was hand calculated with a GPS just to be sure. When out in ND, I just wanted to see what I could really make so I set the cruise at 65 on a 1000 mile round trip. Almost completely flat and absolutely all highway miles and I touched 26 mpg. I don't think Mikes 27 mpg's would be that far out of reach for me

Just curious here. What happens to the CP3 if to much lift pump pressure is run? I know on the VP's you run the risk of blowing the front seal out in the pump.

I will definitely go for a mechanical when the chance comes up. Both brands of pump make it really simple to run the electric pump as back up via a hobbs switch. If something happens to the mechanical pump it will automatically kick in the electric pump. Otherwise, the mechanical pump will always work as long as the engine is turning. Belts are cheap and easy to replace and I like the fact that the pressure will build with engine speed. You aren't at the mercy of the alternator to keep the juice coming for the electric pump.

Happy Birthday Mike!!

Should be amber on the front corners and front sides of the bed. Then reds on the rear and rear sides of the bed if that makes sense. No reds should be facing forward and no ambers should be facing the rear.

I knew that you are the original designer. I meant in no way to take that from you, I just referred the OP to Ed just because of the fact that he has been building them. Whenever I had an issue I was told to call him. Meant no harm

You might want to check with Ed Grafton (Yankneck). He is the mastermind behind the high idle/mpg fooler. You might just give him call, he should be able to walk you through any issue there is. This might be a funny question, but are you positive that it is a 24 valve? 1998 was the changeover period as I am sure you probably know. The reason I am asking is I dont see a signature. What are some details about your truck? Year, model, engine, transmission, etc.

The check engine light should not come on. I don't remember what the exact resistor that should be used is but for some reason the 68ohm doesn't sound right. You might double check that.

Nope. I drilled just ahead of it. I have heard of people having issues with it interfering with the basket in there.

Ok guys. I finally got around to installing my Beans diesel fuel tank sump this weekend. Low and behold, my bobbing fuel pressure gauge problems went away!! I have no idea what must have been going on in the stock fuel module but I don't have hardly any pressure drop anymore or the bobbing pressure. Before the sump, I could drag the pressure down from 20 psi to 10 psi getting on the freeway. Now it barely drops to 17 psi from 20. I don't know if you guys are running a straw of some kind but I am pretty impressed with the difference that the sump made. total installation time only took me about 20 minutes. The longest part was draining the tank.

Between the EPA, car manufacturers, and oil companies I think everyone is out to get us.

As long as you had the clear hose in line before the VP and the fuel had to flow through it to get to the VP, then the test was done right. I am sure you probably thought about this, but what about a bad tank of fuel? Could have gotten some water in it or something.

Definitely go for the steel wool. They dont like that stuff at all. As for problems with the under hood of cars and trucks, there is a trick a lot of people use here in MT I have learned. Everyone leaves there hood propped open about half way. Make sure your underhood light is unplugged!!!!! The critters will very rarely mess with your wiring, hoses, and anything else if the hood is open like that. I havent ever seen that trick done anywhere else but here.

I would try to get a hold of AH64I. Seems like he knows a thing or two about the Smarty software and building custom tunes. I am pretty sure he writes his own and they seem to run really well.

Cool thanks for that input there Mike. It seems like rock auto has some pretty decent pricing on shocks so I will probably go that route.