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How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal... View full Cummins article

Hello all, I’m really hoping y’all can give me some kind of direction here. Sorry, in advance, for the long post. Let me start by telling you what I’ve got and what I know. I’m working on a 1999 Dodge 2500. A friend brought it to me after swapping from a v10 to a 24 valve. The engine, PCM, ECM, gauge cluster, fuel tank and engine harness came out of a wrecked 1999 dually so the year models match up. I’ve double checked all of the connections, battery cables, plugs, etc. and everything is how it should be. I was told it ran before he put it in but that it also sat for a year between it being pulled and then put into this current truck. Now, it won’t start aka it will crank but not start. Batteries are both good, cables are good, starter is good, engine turns at a good speed. I have NO codes, on the dash or with a code reader. So I started with diagnostics. Fuel system relay is functioning. It has an air dog lift pump, pushing a consistent 14psi to the VP. It has a new VP44 on it as the old pump had a seized rotor and was only putting fuel to 2 injector lines. While I was changing the VP, I did a compression test and pop tested the injectors. Compression checked out. 4 of the six injectors would just pee out fuel, the other 2 would bypass to return without opening. So he pick up some new injectors. Here we are, back together with a new VP and new injectors…. Still no start. Back to diagnostics. I check ground and voltage to the plug on the back of the VP. Pin 7 has battery voltage, Pin 6 has a good ground. Plug it back in, check voltage at pin 5, no voltage at pin 5 with key on. So these three things are telling me that the VP is getting the appropriate signal and should be running. Next step is to Hotwire the pump. I Hotwire it and it fires right up and idles. So it’s an electrical issue… I understand that the MAP sensor, APPS, cam and crank pos sensors all play a role in a happy VP truck but I’m not sure where to go from here. Again, I have NO codes. Can someone point me in the direction of what else to check and how to diagnose it? Or if I over looked something?

I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9l that is stock other than a Predator mechanical fuel pump that I have recently put on. I have had the issue even before I've done any work to the truck of there being brief second of no power and then returning like nothing happened. I will be driving normal (Smooth accelerations) and every once in a while the truck will loose power and go back to normal in a matter of a second. I've always thought it was a problem with the stock lift pump on the side of the motor so i recently replaced it with a predator lift pump and haven't seen it run below 14psi. But even after I did so it still does this intermittent loss of power issue. It can vary from every other ride to weeks between cycles. I have no codes or lights on the dash and am starting to think it might be the VP disagreeing with me and wanting to quit. I have no tunes or anything going on with it and I tried resetting the APPS and nothing has changed it. Only other thing I could think of is air or suds making its way to the Injection pump every so often. Anyone have any thoughts?

The other day my smarty touch fell off the windshield mount to the floor of my truck after hitting a pot hole. I picked it up to plug it back in and noticed the connection on the back of the monitor had been pulled out by the android type charger connecting it the the control module. Not sure if anybody can give me any advice or tips but was wondering if MADS or Smarty does repairs? If anybody had anything to say please do because at the moment I can’t change the tune on my truck or return it to stock tuning meaning I won’t be able to possibly ever change tunes if I can’t get this smarty touch back working.

I have a custom CAN bus device (particle photon + CAN transceiver) plugged into the IHS bus on a 2018 Ram 2500. I'm attempting to find the codes to preform actions like: door lock/unlock mirror retract/extend start/stop engine I see all kinds of codes come across the bus, but have not zeroed in on exactly which ones I need. Does anyone have access to documentation on what the IHS codes are that can share? My purpose is to make my own remote control system (particle electron) instead of paying XM Guardian $250 a year for it. I figured I own the vehicle so I should be able to make my own electronics to talk to. I also was hoping to add functionality to my device like automatically retract the mirrors when I press lock or other similar items.

No boost and 100% transmission slip???? So I just changed my oil and fuel filters along with fixing an oil leak on the vacuum pump. To fixing the oil leak I unplugged the sensor behind the vacuum pump and the three wire plug next to the engine ID plate..... fixed the oil leak and re-assembled everything. While I was drive home, I noticed it not registering boost and the trans was at 100% slip. I foot braked it to try and build some boost. It start to build up but felt like it just fell on its face and didn't have any power. Still drove okay I tried resetting the app sensor no change. 01 2nd gen, BT iquad all the normal mods. Looking for ideas?!

So I thought I would pose a question today, since this is something I’ve been dealing with all day. What exactly does the offset key do in regards to timing? I’ve searched the inter webs and I can’t find anything more than a generic, “It works with timing the pump”, or “The key has to be calibrated to each pump”. What does it do? Is there a hidden ignition pickup or sensor in the gear cover that reads the key? Reason I’m asking is because my key is crushed (My F-up). I think at some point between 1998.5-2002, Dodge took either the crank or cam sensor out of the truck when built. I have an 01, and it only has one of those sensors. I’m wondering if the key is irrelevant on those later trucks not equipped with the cam/crank sensor (still can’t remember which one I have). Any clarity on what the hell that key affects regarding timing would be much appreciated.

Anybody here have any tricks to getting the VP44 out of the back of the case? Trying to get the pushrod cover gasket replaced. I have removed everything including the nut and lock washer on the end of the pump shaft and 4 nuts on the pump. TDC is set but that o ring is being a mother! I don’t really want to beat on it to get it out, and prying does little but separate it just a hair on the lower driver side (Only place I can get some leverage). Truck has almost 300k on the Odo, but the pump has been replaced at least once. That O ring in there is really on there good. Any ideas?

So I'm pulling the trigger on ordering a VP44. I got dead pedal 3 times yesterday and have had enough of that. I'm planning on getting it from DAP. Does anyone have any pluses or minuses about this or any other suggestions? I figured this would happen as my brother's ignorance with the VP44 is probably what lead to its premature death. With 2 stock lift pumps in it with no TCW3 and more than likely constant low pressure sound like a death sentence. He also used if for towing 2 to 3 horses and very little non towing. The silvermoose had a very demanding first 60k miles. This is going to be one expensive week. My tires will be getting replaced as well. They currently have over 50k on them and there is still a good amount of tread left but they are dated 2014 and are not behaving nicely. Thank and appreciate any input. L8tr D

I apologize if there is already another thread for something similar to this, however I’m looking for some help in tuning my 99 5 speed. My truck has some modifications and I just don’t feel like it’s at it’s full potential with the pre loaded tunes. It’s got 60 hp injectors and a silver bullet 66 turbo, was hoping someone could give me some options or a list of what should make it run the best. Any help is appreciated.

Hi, I am looking for a flashing LED or similar alarm kit to install by my fuel pressure gauge to alert me that the feed pressure at the VP44 inlet is at or below 10 psi. I want this set point because that is what Cummins specify is the minimum required and everything I have read indicates that below that pressure I am damaging the VP44. So far all the alarms I have found listed for my truck activate at 5 psi or less, I emailed three suppliers, two haven't replied and the one who did admitted that although his alarm kit is listed for my truck the 5 psi setting is too low to be any real use to protect the VP44. Thanks.

Alright, a lot has happened with the truck since I last commented on here. My truck is a 1998.5 slt Laramie(I have the pull out headlight switch), everything I read online says it comes with foglight wiring. I bought a set of 4 led pods, 2 fog light relays(as my PDC had the slots and 12v power running to them, I used a test light to check for power) I installed the 10amp fuse for the drl lamp spot as it was missing for some reason but was also hot. My trick has a plug in the center underneath the radiator. I went to the salvage yard and found a truck with some foglight wiring but it was 2 prong plug, and I found a truck with a 3 prong plug like mine but just the plug as the wires had been cut. I know I can just run them to the battery and then to a switch, but I want it to be as factory as possible. The 1998 foglight/airbag switch is discontinued so I was going to try and wire my low beam power to the relay which would then send power to the foglights when low beams are on. So my question is, is this 3 prong plug correct or am i SOL? And if it is correct what other fuses/relays do I need to install in PDC or fuse label in cab to send power to fog lights while low beams are on. I know I would have to splice atleast 1 set of wires.

Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.

I ordered towing mirrors off amazon last year. Got them in and installed them, I hook them up and tested both sides before putting everything back together. Both worked, Installed them, Passenger side still worked, but driver side didn't. Emailed company they sent out another set, error happened and I got 1 correct and 1 for a 2010+ sized mirror. Emailed them they sent out another set and they were correct. months go by and I didn't have the need to change the mirrors out as i already had them adjusted to where i needed them(folded down) I did some trading with a friend and traded him the mirrors that were messed up for a leveling kit and some cash. We took old ones off and up new ones on my truck. Tested before installing them everything worked great. Start the truck and turn it around in the driveway. My driver side works fine now but my passenger side on goes left and up folded in or flopped out. Im not a wiring guy and I need help figuring out why it has done this.

I need help with tuning my quadzilla 4K for my truck. Truck has 188/220 cam,103 springs,7x13 injectors, pushrods and studs and t4 manifold but I can’t figure out tunes for my setup it pops at higher rpms and sometimes even shuts the truck off. I have a brand new fass 165 set to 20psi and 15 at wot. Any help will be appreciated.

I know I know, I have alot of posts on different subjects but I want to get everything lined out of this truck. I still haven't messed with the oil pan gasket and I need a front timing cover and tappet cover gasket aswell. I am curious of how to wire up a relay for the headlights on my 1998 dodge. Its not a sport model it originally had the 9004 lights in it but recently got some aftermarket cleared lens with projector. It has a dual beam setup but still uses the 9004 plug. Works great! I am gunna do the high low mod and have both on at once by using the wire splice under the steering wheel and want to take load of switch aswell so I want to add a relay to driver and passenger side. How do I go about doing this.

Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pumps Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual. This is for your Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel truck with a Bosch VP44 injection pump. Fuel pressure Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. It should never fall below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorize fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc. This is undocumented maximum pressure is 20 PSI. Now take notice to the overflow valve is set for 14 PSI so excessive pumping of fuel does nothing for performance except create more heat in the fuel, which in turns reduces the cooling ability of the fuel and adds more stress to the lift pump. So a little extra fuel pressure is a good thing because it ensures the Bosch VP44 injection pump stays cooled and lubricated properly. However, excessive fuel pressure will heat the fuel and reduced the cooling ability of the fuel. Now always remember that the only lubrication the Bosch VP44 injection pump will see is the fuel itself so if you don't have enough fuel pressure it will cause damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump. It's like the same as running the engine with low oil pressure it will continue to run, but the damage to the engine will occur. On the other hand, the Bosch VP44 injection pumps, which happen to be about $1,200 to replace. Pressure Drop The amount of fuel pressure drop between idle and wide-open throttle. 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT is normal. However, 5 PSI or more pressure drop from idle to WOT is pointing out a failed lift pump, plugged filter, and/or plumbing restrictions. 2-3 PSI Is Normal Dropping more than 5 PSI is pointing towards a failed lift pump, plugged filter, or restrictive plumbing. Just to show you the difference in the stock plumbing which is 6mm ID plumbing and most performance pumps come with 1/2" ID plumbing. These pictures will give you an idea... The first picture is a Big Line fitting over the top of the stock plumbing. Then the second picture compares the stock 6mm ID steel lines to a 1/2" ID Big Line hose. The best way to show this example of restrictions is to let's say your house is on fire. You know your garden hose has 80 PSI of pressure, but the garden hose is only 5/8" ID hose. Your wife calls 911 and gets the fire department coming in the meantime you keep fighting the fire with your little 5/8" garden hose and losing the battle. The fire department shows up and pulls a 2 1/2" hose off the truck and charges it at 80 PSI and now winning the battle. Your fire is put out! What is so different? No matter what the size of the fuel line will dictate how much volume can be pushed through the fuel line. Like the story above the water pressure was the same at 80 PSI, but the hose size jumped from 5/8" to 2 1/2" ID hose and the volume changes are the size of hose. So the same thing applies to the stock fuel system. The stock banjo bolts and 6mm ID pipes are just too restrictive and cannot supply enough volume of fuel for that Bosch VP44 injection pump demands. This why I highly suggest you go up to 1/2" ID plumbing. Reasons Why Fuel Pressure Is Critical Let's take a look at a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I've labeled the fuel lines supplying fuel and return line plus the overflow valve. Now I know there is a ton of rumors on the internet of all kinds of minimum pressures for a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm going to say stick with the Dodge Factory Service Manual Specifications for fuel pressure. Now let's talk a bit more about the flow of the fuel. The lift pump supplies pressurized fuel to the Bosch VP44 injection pump the overflow valve regulates how much fuel pressure is held. Excessive fuel pressure is returned to the fuel tank. The picture below is of the bleed hole in the overflow valve this image was magnified x10 to show you how small the bleed hole really is. Give you an idea the size of the hole use a single strand of 14 AWG copper wire, and it will NOT fit the hole. The bleed hole is there solely for bleeding air out of the system which air will pass through this tiny hole rather easy but fuel will not. However, if you're looking for long life from a Bosch VP44 injection pump, I would personally suggest you adjust your minimum pressure to 14 PSI this will ensure the overflow valve remain open and a constant fuel flow through the Bosch VP44 injection pump and keep it cool all the time. Let me play out a simple scenario. Let's say my fuel pressure is roughly 10-11 PSI. I'm going to drive up into the back country approximately 40 miles with my Dodge Cummins towing an 8x8 utility trailer. Now the whole trip heading uphill into the mountain towing an empty trailer is going to be enough fuel flowing to the injectors to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump happy. However, I've spent the day and loaded up with firewood and now coming back down the mountain loaded. I'm using my exhaust brake and coasting most of the way down taking it slow and easy. At this point, the injectors are no longer firing so the Bosch VP44 injection pump is not pumping fuel out to the injectors. Furthermore, the overflow valve closes at about 10-11 PSI so let's say it did close. Now where is the fuel going??? Nowhere! It is pooled up in the injection pump and gaining heat and being broke down. You've also removed the cooling and lubricating of the Bosch VP44 injection pump so now it actually taking on damage. To give you a feel for the fuel flow coming from the injection pump with an AirDog 150 at 17.5 PSI of fuel pressure, I've got a video to explain that quickly. I've heard rumors of some people trying to develop a cool down system for the Bosch VP44 Injection pump but after making the video above, there is just no way to cool down the injection pump using the lift pump of even the AirDog/FASS series. The whole problem is the restrictions inside the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the overflow valve as seen in the video above. So the only way to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump cool is to keep fuel flowing through it at all times. So to keep the overflow valve open I suggest the 14 PSI minimum pressure. I'm currently at 136K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump and still going strong using a 16 PSI minimum pressure and an 18 PSI idle pressure. Here is a short video of stable fuel pressure from 55 MPH to 70 MPH at WOT. Here is another video done with idling, cruising, and WOT operation. Yes. I got a bit carried away and sloshed the fuel in the tank and sucked an air bubble and the pressure fell off. Cranking Pressure Test Here is a simple test on how to do the test for cranking fuel pressure. Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and then attempt to start the engine. Pay attention to the fuel pressure gauge during cranking. Be aware this test will trip a P1689 code and light the CHECK ENGINE light. Excessive cranking pressure can lead to difficult starting problems. Suggested Lift Pump Replacement You should replace the stock fuel system completely since it cannot supply enough fuel for even stock requirements without causing damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump or adding stress to the lift pump. The pumps I suggest are proven and come with a lifetime warranty. These pumps come with a full kit and replace everything from the fuel tank to Bosch VP44 injection pump. AirDog 100, 150, or 165 Raptor 100 or 150 FASS 100 or 150 FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.2 - 89 GPH) I don't suggest these pumps... Because they don't address the pump location, plumbing restrictions, or come with much of warranty. Stock Carter or Carter Campaign Pump (4090046) Holley Blue or Holley Black FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.1 - 40 GPH) AirTex Mopar's Notes: That was true for the DDRP Ver.1 However, DDRP-02 is rated at 89 GPH and will hold pressure. It is listed as a Stock replacement pump designed to perform better than the Stock pump, but not for Chips that add fueling. I place a Power Puck on my truck with the DDRP-02 and saw no difference in FP at either idle or WOT, (PP is a timing chip doesn't change the amount of fuel). That said the PP is currently removed from my truck as I overpowered my clutch both loaded and unloaded, back to the stock clutch is fine. Looking for a Valair possible DD organic, or SD Kevlar/Ceramic. It is currently in the stock location and giving 15 psi at idle and 10 at WOT. Information Provided By: rhagfo http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/404412-fass-ddrp-02-a.html#post4197714 Additional Information (About Performance Crowds & Fuel Pressure) I've seen several times where people will link back to performance pump builders and quoting where they say, "(Un-named) proved that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump." This might be true but there is nothing ever said about the life span of the pump at these conditions. So... Please do not follow these performance crowds into destroying a perfectly good Bosch VP44 injection pump. The fact still remains from Bosch the actual designer of the Bosch VP44 injection pump states that injection pump should return 70% of the fuel back to the fuel tank for cooling and lubrication purpose of the VP44. Being the only way a Bosch VP44 injection pump can do this is to have fuel pressure above 14 PSI to open the overflow valve. Then if the stock Bosch VP44 injection pump with an enhancement box say an Edge Comp on 5x5 can consume 15-20 GPH that means the stock 35 GPH pump cannot keep up with Bosch's design of 70% return volume. So this why products like AirDog, Raptor and FASS was created because they actually meet the demands of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then another fact that Bosch will let you know of is that diaphragm damage occurs from operating the Bosch VP44 injection pump at low fuel pressures. Making matters worse is that no Bosch injection re-builder will void warranty a VP44 injection pump with diaphragm damage. Dead give away that you had a bad lift pump or low fuel pressure problems. Please view the Bosch VP44 exploded view page to see there is no diaphragm in the Revision 027 Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Then the other fact is right from the Dodge Factory Service Manual has the minimum fuel pressures (picture at the top of the page). It even states the pressure that the overflow valve requires to open. Refer to the Overflow Valve Testing from the Dodge Factory Service Manual and see that the overflow valve should remain closed at 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI. So if the overflow valve is close by 10 PSI, then you extra cooling and lubrication just disappeared. So ultimately it suggested having a fuel system of no less than 100 GPH supply that can maintain a minimum pressure of 14-15 PSI at WOT. This will great extend the life of the VP44 because it keeps the electronics cooler longer and keeps the rotating parts lubricated properly. So please people let the facts and information from the actual designers of the injection pump (Bosch) and engine (Cummins) provide you proper information for your fuel system for your engine. Don't be swayed by performance shops claim of high horse output with little fuel pressure. As I proved right here doesn't work for the longevity of the VP44 injection pump... Another thing to bring up there are people that are increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI. Please don't do this. The return port leaving the VP44 pump isn't very big at all. The return port is on the left and supply is on the right. As you can see increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI put you at risk for shaft seal failure. Increasing the pressure above 20 PSI isn't going to improve the return flow. I say stick with the 14-20 PSI pressure range for seal safety. Additional Information (About Maximum Flow Rates) Here are some calculated flow abilities of the stock fuel system vs. 1/2" big line kits. This is not calculating bend, turns, offices just straight flow for open end plumbing and this is a rough calculation. Pipe Size Gallon Per Hour Flow Rate Gallon Per Minute Flow Rate 6mm ID pipe 75 GPH @ 15 PSI 1.2 GPM @ 15 PSI 1/2" ID pipe 570 GPH @ 15 PSI 9.5 GPM @ 15 PSI Use The banjo bolt Shrader valve to test for fuel pressure, Item 3 in the above diagram. If you have a 98-99 truck the port might be on top of the fuel filter housing. You can see the 90* bend fitting coming out of the top of the fuel filter housing in the below picture. Install a Shrader valve and test from there. I'm hearing of tales of shops, mechanics, or dealers doing the old hook up the fuel pressure gauge and only checking fuel pressure at idle. This is wrong. Because I've seen lots of cases where fuel line restriction, fuel filter plugging, gelling fuel and other thing causing fuel pressure to drop out under load. Like this video from a friend of mine, you'll see he's got awesome fuel pressure at an idle (where most shops gave him the green light). However, what the shops did not test for is WOT at highway speed, and you'll see in the video, he can pull way down to 0 PSI. Anything under 14 PSI is a concern... Anything under 10 PSI is a serious problem. As for having a gauge in the cab all Dodge Cummins trucks should have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because like you seen bench testing with an idle pressure is meaningless if you can't see the WOT pressure at highway speed. View full Cummins article

Sorry for yet another thread but I just upgraded quadzilla to V2 with cord i found in junk drawer XD. So now im wondering if there is a baseline tune for Economy, Towing, and Race for a 7x.011 sac truck? or close to that?

Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition in it, my father replaced it before i got the truck cause he thought that was the cause of the truck dieing(was vp44/ecm) so got new vp44 and rebuilt ecm. I believe it was the ignition anyways. I have the part and the box for the new one in it somewhere. Batteries are new and cable end are new with di electric grease slathered generously. It has a oreileys starter on it. It was put on truck when I replaced clutch as my original one was from autozone. But the shop I was at had an oreileys one in the box so we put it on.