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Ground Reference VP44,ECM,PCM,PDC plus TC lock/unlock

W-T
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, rogerash0 said:

My Q is on IBM Mobile's grounding of the PCM, why not ground it as soon as possible to the chassis somewhere close to the PCM, instead of taking it to the battery.

I believe because with time corrosion we'll take the best of it, and going straight to battery will minimize loss of ground. That's why I put extra ground straps throughout my truck, to bond everything together. Although it was advised against many times now seems to be a common practice. Bonding.

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JAG1

JAG1

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3 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

My Q is on IBM Mobile's grounding of the PCM, why not ground it as soon as possible to the chassis somewhere close to the PCM, instead of taking it to the battery.

It is grounded already to the firewall as well as the passenger battery. Comes from the factory that way

 

On both my second Gens I upgraded the size ground wire from PCM to firewall. Next is to do all mods above and others written up by W-T.

 

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IBMobile

IBMobile

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, rogerash0 said:

My Q is on IBM Mobile's grounding of the PCM, why not ground it as soon as possible to the chassis somewhere close to the PCM, instead of taking it to the battery.

 

@Dieselfuture is right that If the PCM control wires are grounded to the body then there is a chance of high electrical resistance from rust, undercoating or paint, in any of the body panel spot weld, bolt or screwed connections.

 

By soldering the splices in the PCM grounding wire and keeping it routed straight to the battery ground, a good electrical bound is formed and 0 electrical resistance .                  

 

The PCM is mounted on plastic so the outside case is grounded (bonded) to the body (fire wall) with a ground strap. 

Edited by IBMobile
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JAG1

JAG1

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Drove home yesterday and got stranded with a 1688 error code. I even knew that my AC noise level was too high, but kept putting it off. MoparMan suspects that's what killed the communication between the ECM and the injection pump (1688) since I religiously use 2 stroke oil and keep fuel pressure above 14. Can't say for sure, but I might not be buying a new rebuilt VP44 if I took the time to do this important electrical upgrade. What makes even it worse is new diode bridge that sat on my work bench for months while I rested weekends from work.:kick:

 

All I got to say is don't be lazy and take care of your truck.

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JAG1

JAG1

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Was thinking about flat deck trailering it to MoparMan since the air conditioning also needs work. Not sure what to do until I get the VP from Pacific Fuel injection and do W-Ts' ground mods. I'm real gun shy on changing a VP. Things I do everyday I'm good at. Just not this.

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dripley

dripley

Posted
Posted

That does suck, but I understand the resting from work part, it his bit me a couple times. The job is not that difficult. An spare set of hands is helpful the first time but did it by myself the second time.

 My VP has 227k on it and I am awaiting my turn. All of that with 2 stroke and good fuel pressure and one lift pump failure. But I am hoping to get at least 245k for bragging rights with the man who got 243k.

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GSP7

GSP7

Posted
Posted (edited)

R & R ing the VP 44 is really pretty easy.

 

Not much to it

 

I had a old simple steering wheel puller like this for the front gear, easy as pie

 

17400000_gra_5891_pri_larg.jpg

 

grt-5891_w_ml.jpg

Edited by GSP7
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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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7 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I'm real gun shy on changing a VP.

 

I'll tell you why he's gun shy to changing the VP44. Last time I did the VP44 in his other truck was was quick to ask, "Where does this bolt go?" - CLANK! and it disappeared. After hunting for about 15-30 minutes we found it in the bottom of the intercooler. :spank:

 

I've got no problem doing the VP44 @JAG1 knows my average speed is half of the labor book. Not to mention the A/C problem he's been nagging me about for months since last summer if I don't do it JAG1 will be beating with the stick next. 

 

9 hours ago, IBMobile said:

That sucks, big time.

Why couldn't you break down near New Meadows?  I know a guy that would fix you right up.

.  

How fast do you need it fixed?  I know another guy that's a mobile mechanic but he's old and slow. 

 

 You always welcome for a wrench party here. It's always the old and slow ones that know what they're doing. (Sign of great wisdom).

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JAG1

JAG1

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I didn't mean for this thread to get side tracked... just want you all to know the importance of keeping the A/C ripple to low levels.

 

I dropped the bolt cause MoparMan is like lightening changing a Vp… I thought I was out of his way, but I can't move the speed of light. 186,000 miles per second.

 

GSP7, keep talking, I might just do it with some help my first time like Dripley. I'm afraid of loosing the half moon key when removing and replacing is all. If I did get it I will still go out to visit Mopar since I like to travel and hit the road. A mile down the road from Mopar is a resort on the river. So I can be fishing while Mike works on my truck. :thumb1:

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dripley

dripley

Posted
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17 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

 

 

GSP7, keep talking, I might just do it with some help my first time like Dripley. I'm afraid of loosing the half moon key when removing and replacing is all. If I did get it I will still go out to visit Mopar since I like to travel and hit the road. A mile down the road from Mopar is a resort on the river. So I can be fishing while Mike works on my truck. :thumb1:

I worried my self sick over that key but it said in the shaft coming out and going in both times I did it. Still need to exercise care wit though. My second I was by myself. Took my time with that one. Slow and deliberate. Hope you leave Mike some while your fishing.

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GSP7

GSP7

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IIRC isnt there a mark on the gear where the woodruff key is located, so you can get it up on TDC before you pull the gear ?

 Its been awhile since I did mine havent reviewed the procedure lately

 

.

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01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

Posted
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34 minutes ago, dripley said:

You can see it with a mirror in the opening after pulling the breather. IIRC that is. Isnt the notch for the key visible? 

Yes it is visible, it’s been several years since I did mine but remember using a mirror in breather opening to check, 

 

even if you were a couple degree off from 12:00. Just take note of orientation of key way when removing vp and when you install the new vp just orient the shaft to match up with the orientation of old vp key way. and a good dose of super glue can be some good insurance

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