What is the "BEST" engine oil & filter to use and why?

[leety]

I've seen a lot of info in this forum about engine oil but didn't run across any focused discussion on the topic.

 

If anyone knows of one please direct me to it, if there isn't one now would be a good time for one.

 

I'm planning to change my oil in the next few days.  My local parts shop recommended Delo 400 15w40 oil and WIX XP filter (see picture)

 

The fella at the parts shop also said something about using a thinner viscosity in winter.  I do go to where it's cold but it's not exactly cold in Los Angeles.  I'm hoping some of you that live in cold climates will know about this first hand.

 

Let me know if this is the oil and filter I purchase are suitable and/or if there is a better option.  Everything is returnable :-)

 

Also is there some procedural steps that would be good to follow outside of the the common steps - Does this drain plug need a new washer seal etc?

1) pull drain plug

2) change filter

3) reinstall drain plug

4) refill 12 qts/3 gals of oil

 

 

Edited June 23, 2018 by leety

[015point9]

More than 6 quarts and  I slide plastic bag on filter before removing

 

[GSP7]

Delo is the best. 15w-40

 

You need to buy 3 gallons , not 6 quarts. Mine takes 10 quarts so you have a 1/2 gallon left over for your next change

 

I also run delo 15w-40 in my gas chevy motor in my 1981 k20

 

. A lot of hot rodders run Delo in the gas motors as it is a Premium oil

 

I only replaced my drain washer once.

But old washer never leaked even when the rubber wore off.

I used to rub a very thin bit of gray permatex gasket maker on my old washer where the rubber had worn off, till I got a new one

 

I do the bread bag over the old filter when removing too

 

I use Fleetguard  LF3894 StrataPore, I buy several at a time. think I have 3 lett in stock

Edited June 23, 2018 by GSP7

[trreed]

Taking the intake hose off the turbo makes for easy access to the oil filter.  When you unscrew it, you can let it gently drop down to rest on the AC lines, and then can snake it out the top without spilling.  My drain plug doesn't have a washer on it.  

[leety]

3 minutes ago, GSP7 said:

Delo is the best. 15w-40

 

You need to buy 3 gallons , not 6 quarts. Mine takes 10 quarts so you have a 1/2 gallon left over for your next change

 

I also run delo 15w-40 in my gas chevy motor in my 1981 k20

 

. A lot of hot rodders run Delo in the gas motors as it is a Premium oil

I meant 12quarts.  I bought 4 gallons so I'd have some extra just in case.  I have a small leak.

15 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

More than 6 quarts and  I slide plastic bag on filter before removing

 

I meant 12 qts LOL.

 

Good trick I'll do that.

[JAG1]

I like to use one of those filter wrenches that are a rubber strap. I guess its called a strap filter, easy to get it around the filter  and better than the fight getting around the air conditioning parts near the bottom of the filter. Also I never tighten new filter more than just a little more than hand tight and it never leaks.

 

Be sure to fill new filter and spread some oil on the new rubber gasket. Also very very important to make sure the old filter gasket came off with the old filter. Once I had the old gasket stuck on there and put new filter on only to loose about 7 quarts on the driveway. It leaked and pumped that much out in just a few short seconds.

Edited June 23, 2018 by JAG1

[dripley]

I run these for a oil filter. Could not guote the technical data. @AH64ID recommended it. Got them for about $11 each from filtrpro.com. I get my fuel filters and soon air filters from them.I ran rotella for many years. Then heard a lot about Delo, got deal on some and been using since. The new CK stuff is supposed to be even better. I usually get the 2.5 gallon jug and it's a bit cheaper still.

 I have never done anything to my drain other than remove and re install

 11quarts takes mine to the full mark.

[Guest 04Mach1]

I'm sure your gonna get a lot of different opinions on this.

 

Anywho I run Rotella 5w40 synthetic and Fleetguard LF16035 oil filters on the 97 and 01. I change oil once a year regardless of milage which equates to about 12000 to 15000 miles. I came to this interval base on several oil analysis I had sent out.

 

My 07 6.7 3500 gets regular dino 15w40 Rotella and whatever Napa or O'Reilly's sends me for an oil filter every 5000 miles. The 07 has a service bed and sees more idle time and severe duty compared to the other 2.

[dripley]

13 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

I'm sure your gonna get a lot of different opinions on this.

That is a pretty accurate statement. There is more than one product out there that will accomplish goals.

 And just make every one cringe, I ran Fram oil filters and a K&N air filter for many years.

[Guest 04Mach1]

1 minute ago, dripley said:

That is a pretty accurate statement. There is more than one product out there that will accomplish goals.

 And just make every one cringe, I ran Fram oil filters and a K&N air filter for many years.

I still run K&N air filters because I don't see issues when the filter is maintained. It's when neglected and not re- oiled I see issues with dust getting through filter

[leety]

30 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

I'm sure your gonna get a lot of different opinions on this.

And that my friends is the point of the exercise!

 

There is rarely a singular correct answer to these types of questions.  The more info I get, the more data I have to work with in my analysis and decision making process.  We each have to do what we feel comfortable with and that's not always going to be the same thing.  This is a fantastic group, in that all of the opinions are backed up with the real world testing, which is where the rubber meets the road.

[Mopar1973Man]

Ask any hotshotter with a million miles.  Like @cajflynn . He used Delo 15w-40 and Fleetgaurd filters.

 

As for myself I typically do Delo 15w-40 and Napa Gold filters. Change every 7.5k miles. 

[dripley]

I suffered no I'll effects from mine that I could tell. Kept it oiled and cleaned it gently. I just found the BHAF more to my liking after learning about it.

The wife had a K&N her 1st Dakota. Got oil changed somewhere on the road and the folks there cleaned hers with compressed air and what ever liquid they used. Had to throw that one away.

[Guest 04Mach1]

I suppose if I were regularly in high dust driving conditions I would consider paper elements.

 

From my years as a Speedco manager with Baldwin and Fleetguard warranty departments drilling into our heads that paper air filters need replaced every 50k miles or once a year which ever occurred first because exposure to moisture, heat, and general elements cause media depletion and increase chances of dusting an engine. This applied to the power core air filters found on many newer trucks also.

 

I run the K&N because it's renewable at a reasonable cost. The BHAF is rather expensive when following manufacturer guidelines for service. If the truck was for business instead of pleasure I would be all over the BHAF.

[leety]

51 minutes ago, dripley said:

I suffered no I'll effects from mine that I could tell. Kept it oiled and cleaned it gently. I just found the BHAF more to my liking after learning about it.

The wife had a K&N her 1st Dakota. Got oil changed somewhere on the road and the folks there cleaned hers with compressed air and what ever liquid they used. Had to throw that one away.

My truck came with a K&N.  I have to keep it an put it back on to pass smog, but I prefer the BHAF.  The K&N left a kind of oily residue in the intake and likely in the turbo.  Not sure if that's such a good thing.

Edited June 23, 2018 by leety

[Guest 04Mach1]

3 minutes ago, leety said:

My truck came with a K&N.  I have to keep it an put it back on to pass smog, but I prefer the BHAF.  The K&N left a kind of oily residue in the intake and likely in the turbo.  Not sure if that's such a good thing.

The oil residue will not hurt anything. It just means the K&N was over oiled. It would not be enough oil to fuel the engine and cause a run away. The only ill effect with K&N would be either under oiled or torn gauze allowing dirt into the engine.

[leety]

Just now, 04Mach1 said:

The oil residue will not hurt anything. It just means the K&N was over oiled. It would not be enough oil to fuel the engine and cause a run away. The only ill effect with K&N would be either under oiled or torn gauze allowing dirt into the engine.

Good to know!

[dripley]

6 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

I suppose if I were regularly in high dust driving conditions I would consider paper elements.

I dont drive much in a dusty conditions but I do idle in one a good bit just being on the job site. Never noticed any dusty intake pipes that I have read about. 

[notlimah]

I use this oil

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/sae-15w-40-heavy-duty-diesel-and-marine-motor-oil/?code=AMEQT-EA

 

and this filter

 

http://www.filterspro.com/detail.cfm?part=2679568

 

based on @AH64ID‘s recommendation and has worked great for me.

 

[Sycostang67]

I run the Delo 15/40 and wix combo as well without issues.  One thing I found is that you don't have to completely remove the drain plug from these trucks to drain the oil.  The plug is designed to allow the oil to flow out when it is unscrewed a bit.  The first time I changed the oil on my truck I pulled the plug completely out and it was like a garden hose blasting into my pan.  It quickly overwhelmed the hole in my 12qt catch pan and proceeded to overflow all over my driveway.  Since then I have installed one of those quick release drain valves on the pan and I have upgraded to a 24qt catch can as well.  The drain valve is really nice when I'm getting a sample to send to Blackstone.