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Preferred U-Joints

LorenS
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Dieselfuture

Dieselfuture

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

 

Which part of why I was able to get my 1 piece driveshaft cheaper than 3 new u-joints and a carrier bearing installed on my OE 2 piece.  

Next time I need a yoke on rear end ( heard they go bad) I'm getting next size up and having Sadler powertrain build me an aluminum heavy duty driveshaft. With sealed Spicer joints. 

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Stanley

Stanley

Posted
Posted

Yea I still got some new non greasable joints laying around. I have ran those much longer than a greasable one, just for my forgetfulness.

Doing my joints here soon as well. Going non greasable again, but needing a good place to order the ball etc for the front carden joint? Oriellys any good? 

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Stanley

Stanley

Posted
Posted
31 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

NAPA. I got mine pretty good price for the joint ball.

I like napa, my good friend had a store near me then couple years ago he had to close down... there isnt a other one near by unfortunately...

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beren

beren

Posted
Posted

I will always go with the sealed from now on. I replaced my u-joints at 270,000 miles because I was replacing the carrier support bearing and they were 17 years old but there was not a single dry cap in the rear driveshaft. The front driveshaft did have a dry u-joint around the same time though. As said before they are slightly stronger because there’s no hole drilled in the center and the seals are far better because the greaser ones have to let the grease out but unfortunately they do let the contamination in as well

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dripley

dripley

Posted
Posted
43 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

It must take you 10 minutes to get up to speed for them lasting that long :lmao: 

With my MAP sensor issue, you are not far off.

43 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

:sofa: i know things slow down when they get older :whistle:

I know thats right. But after HG replacement, new injectors and what not, the truck will be ready to rip once again.:)

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