Junior's truck needs work... a lot of work :-(

[dodgedieselnewbie]

Hey all... My son bought a 98.5 about a year ago. He brought into a shop for something (can't remember) and they dropped a bomb ... but said otherwise... runs fantastic. I haven't been keeping up to date with things... So, I'm here asking for guidance/recommendations as far as making sure he gets/uses quality parts... please.

 

I don't know what a PCS BIG BORE GEARBOX is. Is this good? Is Redhead still a good or a better choice? Should he go with Dodge Off Road steering brace as well?

 

What track bar should he go with? Dodge Off Road? 

 

Shocks? Bilsteins still a great choice? Which model? Stock height...

 

Are all ball joints created equal?

 

Does this quote seem reasonable?

 

Ball Joint 2.00 109.48 218.96 K8607T

Ball Joint 2.00 72.98 145.96 K80026

Wheel Hub Assembly 2.00 202.98 405.96 515012

Stabilizer Bar Link 2.00 88.30 176.60 K7280

Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit 1.00 32.96 32.96 K7352

Track Bar 1.00 206.02 206.02 DS1413

Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve 1.00 43.55 43.55 ES2012S

Tie Rod End 1.00 103.59 103.59 DS1458

Tie Rod End 1.00 94.17 94.17 DS1459

Tie Rod End 1.00 96.54 96.54 ES3496

Shock Absorber 2.00 85.82 171.64 911103

Shock Absorber 2.00 83.05 166.10 911104

Multi-Purpose Seal 1.00 15.00 15.00 5131

Multi-Purpose Seal 1.00 12.57 12.57 710241

GEAR OIL 4.00 10.00 40.00 1

Wheel Stud 1.00 3.67 3.67 610-218

PCS BIG BORE GEARBOX 1.00 700.00 700.00 PSCSG852K3

Steering Shaft 1.00 252.37 252.37

 

REPLACE BOTH INNER AXLE SEAL, BALL JOINTS, 900.00

HUBS REPLACE ALL CONTROL ARMS 270.00

REPLACE GEARBOX, AND STEERING SHAFT 180.00

REPLACE ALL STEERING LINKAGE, TRACK BAR 180.00 AND SWAY BAR LINKS AND BUSHINGS REPLACE LR WHEEL STUD 90.00

REPLACE SHOCKS ALL AROUND 162.00

 

ORING 1.00 15.00 15.00 1

ROTELLA 3.00 16.00 48.00 1

OIL FILTER 1.00 12.00 12.00 1

COOLANT 3.00 15.00 45.00 1

ATF 2.00 6.00 12.00 1

Serpentine Belt 1.00 40.20 40.20 K080810

Water Pump 1.00 59.45 59.45 CP7145

Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.00 27.24 27.24 PS50397R

Rear Main Seal Kit 1.00 50.08 50.08 BS40650

Timing Cover Gasket Set 1.00 50.94 50.94 TCS45994

Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.00 175.32 175.32 VS50506R

 

RESEAL INNER TIMING COVER, OIL PAN, AND VALVE COVER, TAPPET COVER, WATER PUMP REPLACE 2,700.00   

DIAG AND REPAIR LOW PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM SENSOR 90.00

 

Looking at $5000.00... Let me know if you think anything is out of line and any suggestions you may have. Thanks a million!

 

 

Also... if anyone can recommend some place within an hour or so of the Phoenix area for him to take to for a second look......

Edited August 28, 2019 by dodgedieselnewbie

[dripley]

Shazam!! Hope he got the truck for 3 grand. That thing ought to be covered in every lubricant known to man. That is a huge list.

[wil440]

I'm in the uk and those prices look high even to me, I'd expect to pay around that but my cost would include shipping, import tax and vat.

Go to rockauto and check on pricing they will list the same numbers for things like tie rod ends, stabilizer bars and bushes/ball joints. 

There is 4 shocks and a total then shocks all round for another total  is that fitting 

[Bullet]

Doesn't sound like the purchase was well thought out...or that any thought was applied at all.  He should sell it and use a little more brainpower on his next purchase.  Otherwise he could save you thousands in labor by doing the work himself and hundreds in parts by shopping himself...just like all the other big boys do on here.  Good luck! 

[Dieselfuture]

I agree with all the above, to own one of these trucks you need to be mechanically inclined unless you have money you don't need. 

Best to shop around and do the work yourself, even if you have to buy some tools it would be cheaper in the long run and you get to keep the tools.

Experience is priceless.

If money isn't an issue then for shop prices it doesn't seem far off. Although it does look like they double charging for some labor. 

Buying parts these days is a crapshoot, I'd say stay away from the cheapest and probably not worth the money to buy the most expensive either.

Look at people signatures, most of us list what we use for major parts.

I'm running bilstein's for shocks and Spicer's for all my u joints and ball joints, so far it's working okay, others had crappy luck with them. 

I went with Timken front wheel bearing hubs,  bearings are fine but I do have an ABS signal loss coming from front left that keeps triggering my ABS brake light. Still not sure if it's pop or ABS module that's doing it as my old set had same problem. Weird parties as it gets colder out it doesn't happen as frequent, and in the winter time it doesn't happen at all.

Big Bore gearbox I believe is from a Chevy truck. I've considered going that route myself, so far my original box is doing ok. 

I would get an adjustable track bar if it's available for that truck or make one if not.

Personally I'd say it's time for your kid to put on big boys pants and join the club. Don't take this offensive as we do not know details were just speculating.

[dodgedieselnewbie]

Oh my goodness... My son (28 years old) certainly wears big boy pants. He has served our country for 7.5 years with the US Air Force and is now super busy working as a defense contractor.

 

I didn't come here for criticism, judgement, belittling or speculation. I came here for advice for him. He is more than capable but works a lot and doesn't have enough garage space. I would help him but unfortunately he lives 2200 miles away. 

 

Perhaps I came to the wrong place.... Have a great day!

[Haggar]

Newbie,

 

Sorry you are taking it that way.  I don't see anyone that responded, intended for you to take it that way.

 

That is a huge list.  Most of those things I have performed on my own truck, so someone else's truck needing it is not out of the ordinary.  But trying to think through a lot of them, takes some time.   We have all performed them but in smaller bites.

 

I agree that there seems to be a lot of double charging for labor.  

 

The labor of 2700 for the waterpump tappet cover and timing/oil pan cover seems high.   The oil pan is a pain.  and the tappet cover requires removing the injector pump.  but 2700 worth of pain?  ( i would really be surprised if ALL of those gaskets are really bad.  I think someone shotgunned that issue.  I would clean the block up and only replace the gaskets that were bad.)

 

The front end may need to be rebuilt, but it does not necessarily all need to be rebuilt at the same time.  

 

Some of it comes down to, is this your son's only vehicle?   This seems to be a list of "I want to drive this truck daily for the next few years, what do I need done?"  vs  "This is my secondary vehicle that I use ocassionaly, what do I need to repair to make it safe."

 

The suggestion that he perform the work himself is very valid.  Very little of this work is rocket science.  It is hard work (heavy, aggrivating, dirty) but just takes time..  Most of us could not afford to pay someone else to perform these functions. (we have more time than money....)  So trying to expand our mental view into that is hard.

 

I am also worried that there are going to be adders.....  I cannot believe that the front end is this worn out, but the brakes are wonderful. 

 

The front end repair seems the most reasonable.    I would probably have that done.   The oil leak, I would diagnose myself.  That is just cleaning the motor and watching for where the leak really is.  and doing a targeted repair on that seal only. 

 

HTH
 

Hag

[JAG1]

12 hours ago, dripley said:

Shazam!! Hope he got the truck for 3 grand. That thing ought to be covered in every lubricant known to man. That is a huge list.

It may be the shop is doing a major CYA. Getting the full list up on the chaulk board. It's okay as long as he is honest enough to say when they find this or that item didn't need doing. I say this because I find hard to believe that much work needs doing and believe oil has migrated to areas that don't need new gaskets at all.

 

How many miles on the truck?

 

last thought is that it has been my experience that the more you learn to do yourself, the better off you will be not having to do it again unless its at an exceptionally good shop.

Edited August 28, 2019 by JAG1

[015point9]

Other places in Phoenix ... 

When we were broke down in Yuma when rv'ing around the US and the Ram Dodge dealer would not do anything for us because it was not completely stock fuel line... not to mention a 2-week wait to get in.   i called Fass shipping department with zip codes of Arizona of who they shipped the most to.

https://www.swdiesel.com/

 

I have no clue if they are any good or not, just passing it on.  

 

A lot of your list is stuff even with my inexperaince could or have already done. 

 

 

 

 

[dodgedieselnewbie]

7 hours ago, Haggar said:

Newbie,

 

Sorry you are taking it that way.  I don't see anyone that responded, intended for you to take it that way.

Hi HAG! Maybe so... I was always taught to choose my words wisely and I feel a few of the comments are a poor choice of words and assumptions were being made. You have responded to many of my post in the past and always have good advice... thanks!

 

That is a huge list.  Most of those things I have performed on my own truck, so someone else's truck needing it is not out of the ordinary.  But trying to think through a lot of them, takes some time.   We have all performed them but in smaller bites.

Like I said.. he can perform a lot of the work even though some would be a learning experience. He does try to do what he can on all 3 vehicles he owns.. when he has the time. His truck is an extended cab long box.. he would park it in the garage and peck away at it when and if he had the time... but it won't fit :-(

 

I agree that there seems to be a lot of double charging for labor.  

 

The labor of 2700 for the waterpump tappet cover and timing/oil pan cover seems high.   The oil pan is a pain.  and the tappet cover requires removing the injector pump.  but 2700 worth of pain?  ( i would really be surprised if ALL of those gaskets are really bad.  I think someone shotgunned that issue.  I would clean the block up and only replace the gaskets that were bad.)

 

The front end may need to be rebuilt, but it does not necessarily all need to be rebuilt at the same time.  

I agree... I told him to get another shop to take a look and give him an order of importance.  I also told him to go back to first service guy for order of importance. 

 

Some of it comes down to, is this your son's only vehicle?   This seems to be a list of "I want to drive this truck daily for the next few years, what do I need done?"  vs  "This is my secondary vehicle that I use ocassionaly, what do I need to repair to make it safe."

See above.. not only vehicle.

 

The suggestion that he perform the work himself is very valid.  Very little of this work is rocket science.  It is hard work (heavy, aggrivating, dirty) but just takes time..  Most of us could not afford to pay someone else to perform these functions. (we have more time than money....)  So trying to expand our mental view into that is hard.

Time and space is what it comes down to... 

 

I am also worried that there are going to be adders.....  I cannot believe that the front end is this worn out, but the brakes are wonderful. 

Me either... I visited him in January.. saw and drove the truck for first time. It didn't feel bad to me when I was there. It's a super clean Arizona truck that is unmolested. Supposedly the previous owner was a mechanic.. I don't know what he did before he sold it. There is 270K on the clock... so I guess maybe it's just time. 

 

The front end repair seems the most reasonable.    I would probably have that done.   The oil leak, I would diagnose myself.  That is just cleaning the motor and watching for where the leak really is.  and doing a targeted repair on that seal only. 

I told him it doesn't all need to be done at once... as mentioned earlier.. try to find order of importance.

 

Quote

 

HTH
 

Hag

 

6 hours ago, JAG1 said:

It may be the shop is doing a major CYA. Getting the full list up on the chaulk board. It's okay as long as he is honest enough to say when they find this or that item didn't need doing. I say this because I find hard to believe that much work needs doing and believe oil has migrated to areas that don't need new gaskets at all.

I agree.. I saw and drove it in January and it didn't feel to me like there was that much going on.

 

How many miles on the truck? 270K

 

last thought is that it has been my experience that the more you learn to do yourself, the better off you will be not having to do it again unless its at an exceptionally good shop.

Definitely.. thank you

 

1 hour ago, 015point9 said:

Other places in Phoenix ... 

When we were broke down in Yuma when rv'ing around the US and the Ram Dodge dealer would not do anything for us because it was not completely stock fuel line... not to mention a 2-week wait to get in.   i called Fass shipping department with zip codes of Arizona of who they shipped the most to.

https://www.swdiesel.com/

 

I have no clue if they are any good or not, just passing it on. Thanks! 

 

A lot of your list is stuff even with my inexperaince could or have already done. Agree.. it's a time and space thing...........

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 28, 2019 by dodgedieselnewbie

[wil440]

16 minutes ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

 

 

 

 

Tell me to shut up if this is irrelevant as  I'm in the UK and don't know nothing of where you are at or whats around this truck as in parts/shops etc, you say the truck drives/drove ok last time you drove it ? does the truck have to have a safety check like here every year, here it's called an MOT (stands for Ministry Of Transport) check, this here is the dogs nuts so far as a idea of what is safe and what isn't, slightest wear in anything and you fail, bulb out you fail, oil leaks... you fail. you get the picture... you fail.  Although I will say in 2004 I did buy my 98 3500 from upstate New York and that hadn't had no checks for a long time, it was in about the same condition as your sons truck  suspension wise, our MOT is gov controlled so in theory no crooks... well the crooks just work to the letter of the law they cannot tell you wrong info, now this check lasts for 12 months ?? is it safe

 

If it is safe then maybe start easy on the drive, I cannot get either of my rams into my 35 x 25 workshop/garage due to the door/  roof joists being way too low... when my garage was built the owner/builder didn't know I would one day own it with 2 7ft tall trucks.... England.... Mickey Mouse cars..... Mickey Mouse garages.... Mickey Mouse repair shops that look at my 2 trucks as if they dropped of off Mars so I do everything outside as and when it suits me, don't know about England.... better names come to mind like wetland, coldland, I have a work van so if I'm working on it I do a bit at a time, it rains I quit and do something else, I'm building a house also, thing is I am a heavy plant mechanic so I'm used to wet and cold... not saying I like it just I can tolerate it if need be.

I'd get another checkover on it and then talk with your son and figure out what if anything he could do, That list would perplex me and I do this all day at work on much bigger stuff but as said by others break it down into bits, first thing I'd do is get it carefully cleaned off, me i'd go buy a case of brake cleaner, and clean off as much oil as possible, I wouldn't pressure wash it as again that Mickey Mouse got the job of designing all gen 2 electrics... he is a busy mouse as he also got design on all car east of the USA and all cars west too

Step by step and as I said earlier there are some numbers that I recognise from Rockauto certainly from the balljoint/ suspension bit, I'm only saying rockauto as for me the shipping to UK is ok....

 

 

 

 

[dodgedieselnewbie]

22 minutes ago, wil440 said:

Tell me to shut up if this is irrelevant as  I'm in the UK and don't know nothing of where you are at or whats around this truck as in parts/shops etc, you say the truck drives/drove ok last time you drove it ? does the truck have to have a safety check like here every year, here it's called an MOT (stands for Ministry Of Transport) check, this here is the dogs nuts so far as a idea of what is safe and what isn't, slightest wear in anything and you fail, bulb out you fail, oil leaks... you fail. you get the picture... you fail.  Although I will say in 2004 I did buy my 98 3500 from upstate New York and that hadn't had no checks for a long time, it was in about the same condition as your sons truck  suspension wise, our MOT is gov controlled so in theory no crooks... well the crooks just work to the letter of the law they cannot tell you wrong info, now this check lasts for 12 months ?? is it safe

 

If it is safe then maybe start easy on the drive, I cannot get either of my rams into my 35 x 25 workshop/garage due to the door/  roof joists being way too low... when my garage was built the owner/builder didn't know I would one day own it with 2 7ft tall trucks.... England.... Mickey Mouse cars..... Mickey Mouse garages.... Mickey Mouse repair shops that look at my 2 trucks as if they dropped of off Mars so I do everything outside as and when it suits me, don't know about England.... better names come to mind like wetland, coldland, I have a work van so if I'm working on it I do a bit at a time, it rains I quit and do something else, I'm building a house also, thing is I am a heavy plant mechanic so I'm used to wet and cold... not saying I like it just I can tolerate it if need be.

I'd get another checkover on it and then talk with your son and figure out what if anything he could do, That list would perplex me and I do this all day at work on much bigger stuff but as said by others break it down into bits, first thing I'd do is get it carefully cleaned off, me i'd go buy a case of brake cleaner, and clean off as much oil as possible, I wouldn't pressure wash it as again that Mickey Mouse got the job of designing all gen 2 electrics... he is a busy mouse as he also got design on all car east of the USA and all cars west too

Step by step and as I said earlier there are some numbers that I recognise from Rockauto certainly from the balljoint/ suspension bit, I'm only saying rockauto as for me the shipping to UK is ok....

Thanks wil... He would certainly be willing to do the work outside.. But it's 100+ in Arizona most of the time.. and.. I don't think his community would allow it. 

 

22 minutes ago, wil440 said:

 

 

 

 

 

[Bullet]

Sorry...I have a habit of stating obvious truths often without regard for feelings.  It keeps me unmarried and happy. 

 

It's hard to see the logic of purchasing a 21 year old truck that needs so much work when he has no time, space or knowledge to work on it (obvious truth).  He would do much better considering his time, space and knowledge limitations by selling it and purchasing another one that doesn't require as much work, time or money (obvious truth).  That's the best advice you are gonna get. 

 

Mark Twain said "It's much easier to fool somebody than to convince them that they have been fooled."  The sooner he realizes that this is not the truck for him and gets one that is...the better off he, and you for that matter, will be.  And then when he gets older like you and I and has the time, space and knowledge...by all means get a project truck. 

 

I not sure if others will agree with me on that but everyone on here will agree with me when I tell you to thank him for his great service to this wonderful country! 

 

[wil440]

1 minute ago, dodgedieselnewbie said:

Thanks wil... He would certainly be willing to do the work outside.. But it's 100+ in Arizona most of the time.. and.. I don't think his community would allow it. 

See I said I know nowt... 100+... just had to check what that was In C... 37c   we just had 3 days here of 33c our hottest bank holiday august ever recorded, shade just about bearable before 11 and after 3, full sun was 45c, we as a country do not do temps above 25c full stop, tarmac/ashphalt on the roads melt and runs down the damn drains.

Also we have no communities really so no one tells you what you can do on your own property.... I'll just read from now as my experience is irrelevant

[dave110]

My .02. I agree with Hag that the prices are not that far out of line assuming they are using decent parts. For me I would do it in steps, or get it done in steps, unless he has the money to spend and just wants to get it over with. Front end first. It makes sense to do unit bearings and seals with the ball joints since they all have to more or less come apart to get to the other one. I see it's a 98.5. He has inboard front rotors then. Might as well change them to as they live behind the unit bearings and don't slip on like newer models. Then the steering parts can be done later unless they are totally shot. Bluetop seems to be the preferred steering box around here. As far as the oil leaks, my truck leaks from the front crank, rear main, and oil pan. I'm in no rush to dig into that. At this point it's just a nice rust preventive coating and nothing major. But then I don't drive a lot either. A 200mi. trip is a lot anymore. Check out @dripley make shift garage he built when he did his head gasket. Might be a way for him to do a little weekend work by himself.

Your hardly a newbie. Anybody who's been on these forums for a while knows you have been too. Thanks your son for his service for me  .

Here it is

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/15885-daves-100-garage/

[dodgedieselnewbie]

2 minutes ago, dave110 said:

My .02. I agree with Hag that the prices are not that far out of line assuming they are using decent parts. For me I would do it in steps, or get it done in steps, unless he has the money to spend and just wants to get it over with. Front end first. It makes sense to do unit bearings and seals with the ball joints since they all have to more or less come apart to get to the other one. I see it's a 98.5. He has inboard front rotors then. Might as well change them to as they live behind the unit bearings and don't slip on like newer models. Then the steering parts can be done later unless they are totally shot. Bluetop seems to be the preferred steering box around here. As far as the oil leaks, my truck leaks from the front crank, rear main, and oil pan. I'm in no rush to dig into that. At this point it's just a nice rust preventive coating and nothing major. But then I don't drive a lot either. A 200mi. trip is a lot anymore. Check out @dripley make shift garage he built when he did his head gasket. Might be a way for him to do a little weekend work by himself.

Your hardly a newbie. Anybody who's been on these forums for a while knows you have been too. Thanks your son for his service for me  .

Appreciate the info! and... thanks!

 

[JAG1]

I wonder if the front puke bottle is overflowing? Mine looked like a big glop of grease (black lookin pancake batter ooze) was plopped in the engine bay instead of a Cummins engine. I  did the puke bottle modification to get rid of it, Cleaned up the engine real real good. At 218k miles no leaks after having to retorque the pan bolts to spec. Truck is perfect now. I would find it hard to believe that many gaskets are blown on a Cummins. Its got to be the puke bottle is the culprit or the offender in this case.

[dripley]

The biggest mess mine ever made was the tappet cover gasket. Looke like the engine was leaking oil from every where.

[Evan]

I stopped reading the list it just hurt to much to go on.

[Timd32]

IMO $5k for all that is a good price if it's a good shop, I agree the PHX heat index charge is not in there. Usually look at the back log they might have, you want someone with experience working on these trucks.

 

I'm not sure it would really need all that at the same time, and I find sometimes would be better to take care of some of the safety stuff first, so any steering issues that are really bad, brake fluid should be flushed.

 

I did not see a thermostat on there but a quality one of those should be added. Make sure they do a flush of the coolant not just a swap.

 

You could also go to a suspension specialist shop and get a quote.

 

Not sure if he has addressed any fuel system issues yet.

 

Sounds like it should be in decent shape no rust, most of the ones I see are in the starts with a $9k, and would need a few $k in upgrades and maintenance. 

 

If he plans on keeping it who cares what it worth, it's a good $5k spent.