2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey guys, I have installed the new Quadzilla high idle box (3 cyl/6cyl) sold by DieselAutoPower Mike developed years ago. When I hook it up as it says (IAT sensor and Coolant Temp sensor) I get the following codes and the unit does not work. I have verified both sensors are in fact working as well as the grid heater relays are both operational. When connecting them back to factory configuration and clearing codes, those codes do not reappear and everything functions normally with no further codes being thrown. Any idea what I could be doing wrong? Truck is programmed with a Smarty S03, 3 cylinder idle is active and does work properly…

Does anyone run this track bar or one like it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/222670536407?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=1xCqq0dyS56&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dXRtkXfnQY-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Been messing with link lx odb adapter .. seem to like it just can figure out the setting for the fuel mpg .. and the brake specific had to move it down to like 250 from 393 factory is to make it close to my hp rating.. and instant mpg are like 40-50 mpg which we all no isn't true I baby it I might get 17.5 mpg .. anyone have advice on fine tuning these display Screen_Recording_20250114_102928.mp4

@mace, I have performed the power steering pump and vacuum pump conversion that you brought to this site. I hope you are still perusing the site and will see this. The time and effort spent on this project (and the APPS relocate) has been very worthwhile. Much engine space has been freed up and the power steering reservoir is right where it should be for easy fluid check / fill. The reservoir is like the brake master cylinder reservoir – you can see the fluid level through the reservoir. An unexpected benefit is that this direct mount power steering pump outperforms any previous power steering pump that has been on this truck. There is no more …

Last week my vacuum pump went out. I swapped it by separating the ps pump and vac pump in the truck and just pulling the vac pump out (probably a mistake in hindsight). Once I got things back together I had vacuum but now no power brakes (hard pedal) or steering. I had a spare (unused reman) ps pump so I swapped that and went through the procedure for purging air from the system but I still have zero power brakes or steering. I also flushed the old fluid by routing the return lines into a bucket and noted lots of flow so I know the pump is pumping. If I do the purge procedure slowly and at idle only nothing special happens but some combination of raising the engine rp…

I mostly use my truck for longer trips, sometimes vacations with my truck camper and sometimes 2+ hour each way work trips into pretty rural areas. My long time practice has been to try to keep a pretty complete tool kit as well as some spare parts (heater hose, serpentine belt etc) with me. In general if I find myself needing a particular wrench etc while doing maintenance at home then I try to have it in the truck if practical. That said, with this Dodge I feel like my tool bag is getting kinda huge. This thing has metric fasteners, a few SAE, torx, etorx hex and that one darn 10mm 12pt socket needed for the starter. Plus on my last adventure replacing the vacuum p…

My new Mustang has spoiled me with its heated seats but unfortunately I can’t drive it in the snow. I found this universal seat heater at work and decided to give it a try. It was pretty easy to install as the factory covers kind of snap on. I didn’t even remove the top cover, just opened the bottom and had enough room to slide it up inside. There was plenty of space on the switch panel for the new switch as well. It works great, I put it on high and it heats up quickly. I usually drop it down to low after a bit though. It costs about $70 and took less than an hour to install.

I live in Canada. And because I do I got really tired of plugging in my truck during winter in hopes it’ll warm it up enough for easier cold starts. I recommend everyone running of these. Couple years ago I installed a Webasto coolant heater. I’m sure you all know how they work so I won’t explain it. I run an aftermarket bumper so I mounted the Webasto bracket to the old oem support bracket in the passenger side so keep it close to the engine as possible. I plumbed the water lines to engine via the water pump housing lower outlet (where the trans cooler fitting would have been if it was equipped). The pump is located up by the R/H battery and plumb…

Finally got the Spyntec free spin hub kit and Autometer pillar gauges installed. I’ve always hated the idea of all that hardware turning up there all the time. I rarely need 4 wheel drive . A lot of work, glad to finally check these off the list , I’ve had the parts for longer than I care to admit. It seems I’ve dislodged something in the process though. Cruise control quit working. The light comes on ,but no function

Mine is starting to crack.

If your seatbelts are stiff or slow to retract, I found this little trick online that really helped mine out. I was constantly having to force feed my seatbelts back into the retractors and it was driving me nuts. I got some clamps, pulled my belts all the way out and used the clamps to hold them out. I filled two medium sized bowls with hot water and dawn dish soap and let the belts soak overnight. The next day I changed the water and used a brush to scrub them a bit and then did my best to dry them with a towel. I left the widows down and let the belts finish air drying for the day. When I removed the clamps the belts were slow to retract from having the springs …

Greetings! I know this has been discussed several times here - I have read all that I can find, but didn't find the answer to my question. My ball joints are worn out, and I would like to convert to a T steering setup. I know plenty of guys have said their Y steering is just fine if setup properly with no lift or big/wide tires. I have a lift and big/wide tires. According to what I have read, the newer style T setup will bolt on, but the taper is different in the knuckles and the pitman arm. I have read there is an HD T setup for 98-99 trucks that will bolt in and have the correct taper, but I cannot find a complete setup like has been mentioned here before. Does anyone k…

Good afternoon. I’m in the process of hooking up Autometer gauges on pillar pod. I’d like the lighting to illuminate and dim with the factory gauges. What is the best way to accomplish that?

I have a 1998.5 and have owned my truck for 13 years and only activated the RWAL twice and it didn't work both times. I now have a ABS light on and changed the sensor on the rear end with on joy. I have had it to all of the dealers within 100 miles of my house and it appears that their DRB111s can talk to it but are not functional enough to read the abs module or reset the tire size ( all if them looked really beat). My first question is there a way to determine if the module in the dash is bad or the hydraulic unit under the hood is bad. The second question is only because I am leaving on a 5000 mile trip in 8 days and I would like to kill the ABS light on the dash and s…

Hi all, First, thank you a million for all the awesome tech advice from this forum. The best one out there IMO. Here is my dilemma...Long story short, I had the truck a couple years with no idea that it had security on it. I always used the button and key to lock/unlock. The other day I inadvertently armed it (and then set it off) when I used the power lock button instead of the manual button. I had a spare CTM so I tried it and that did not get it running. I tried unhooking the batteries and that did not work either. I read a lot about the VTSS since then and tried a lot of things. I suspect I put it into "power up" mode by disconnecting the batteries w…

Had my alternator spin tested at an automotive electric specialty shop, he said the alternator tested great under all parameters. The shop stated allot of people come in with specific specs they want confirmed. My question is what exactly are the specs I should be looking for.

I'm planning on adding some auxiliary lighting to my 98 & 1/2 2500 and while poking around under the hood I noticed that the existing fog lights (and presumably other lights) appear to use negative switching. For those who've been down this path before, do you think I should use negative switching for any new lighting or other accessories so that it's all the same? If so should I do this for the switches in the cab as well or just use positive switching at that point and use the relays under the hood to switch ground? I can do it either way but I have to admit that positive switching feels more natural to me. I'm just curious if either approach is likely to bite m…

After I had a stent installed in my heart Nov 8th, 2023, I lost some muscle strength in my legs, which resulted in my left knee (7 surgeries) not liking the heavy aftermarket clutch in my 01 Sport HO 6 speed. I traded it for a different diesel 4x4, but I just traded it for this 01 Ram 2500 Laramie SLT long bed 4x4 with 4-wheel disk brakes and 4-wheel ABS. It has an actual 195k miles on it from the vehicle record I paid for, which shows the same number of miles on the odometer. It definitely hits a lot harder than the other 3 Cummins 4x4 trucks I've had before. It It has the following upgrades. 1. FASS 165 lift pump 2.…

I finally got around to installing my Geno’s dash top and junkyard dash core. This also marks the near completion of my interior color swap. The only thing I have left to do is paint the overhead console. I also installed a new pioneer head unit I had ordered several years ago as well. It’s so nice having everything on the dash attached to something else. I used a dash core from a slightly older truck which only has the one driver side power port. I didn’t realize my airbag switch wouldn’t fit so I hid it behind the dash and got the other power port from the junkyard that properly filled the hole.

Drove the truck to work last week, noticed the truck vibrating at 60mph. It went away when I sped up to get on the interstate. When I left work I noticed it at 35mph and went away by 40. It was off and on at 60 on the rest of the way home. Under load or coasting didn’t seem to matter either. It doesn’t feel like it’s in the steering, just through the rest of the truck. I did check the rear drive shaft and everything felt tight. I had the front and rear shafts rebuilt and balanced when the trans was built about 50k miles ago. The only thing I know is a little worn is my track bar, was mentioned when I had the trans serviced last year. The heat has kept me from…