2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Can anyone tell me what this is? I was tracing the rats nest of wires I inherited and found this. That spring extends behind the accelerator pedal. I might add I'm almost positive this truck was born an automatic and now has a G56

Got my injectors in the mail Monday. They didn't come with crossover tube o ring. I think it's best to replace them right? I don't believe I should reuse the old ones?

I was told the VP trucks are brutal on FP gauges. My Stewart Warner needs some slappen' around to get it to behave right. Only 5 years old and an electronic sensor type, I'm disappointed.The pulsating is what is supposed to be hard on them but, how is that so bad on an electronic one ? I even had the Vulcan small orific to prevent that. Next weekend Source automotive is putting on a mechanical one. Is that what's best? What brand do you guys have that's lasted? Like to know a little bit on how they are made and what type is best for our VP trucks.T.i.a.

I ordered a vp44 gear puller off the snap-on truck the other day. Wondering what other tools you guys think I should pick up. I have plenty of tools. Im asking more about specialty tools I will need for working on a cummins. Thanks.

Morning Gents. Following is a YouTube link of truck going down the road. Speed dependent tick/knock. Started happening after I installed water/meth injection and wasnt smart enough to dial timing way back. Since symptoms manifested I've redone valve lash, retorqued exhaust manifold bolts and both hotside turbo mounts. I'm not sure where to go from here, truck still has power, rod bearing on the way out? Really appreciate any insight. https://youtu.be/YgKtf61n9iE

You all need to take a look at this... http://relentlessdiesel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24 I'll let the pictures do the talking. First one is a customer of mine who bought the ~$3000 kit to make biodiesel in his garage. He drives an '03 Common Rail Dodge. He ran BioDiesel exclusively for 6-7 months. He has dual fuel filters on the truck. He quit running it because of the cost of replacing the filters offset the savings in fuel. They constantly plugged up and required changing. The picture is of his Fuel Control Actuator valve we had to replace. This part is a component on the Bosch CP3 injection pump. This is after all filters and heading straight i…

Just curious as how you all use your block heater. I am of the mind set that the more you use something the faster it will wear out so I try not to over use things if not needed. So that leads to: Is it better to leave it plugged in all night or possibly for a day or two at a time or would it be best to just plug in an hour or so before you fire it up? Any advantage to either practice? This morning the outside temp is 9° so I figured on plugging in an hour before start up today just to aid in warm up and easy cranking. It should start fine without it but I know it will be easier on the engine with a little heat in there.

Truck ran out of fuel at quarter tank, no lights prior to, and when I got some fuel in it and started, I had a cel shortly after for p0341, and p0230, and the tach doesn’t work, rest of cluster works, and tach works on the tuner screen, also seems to make a weird noise under the hood kind of in the front cover area, Sounds like some kind of knock or something IMG_0669.MOV

Yesterday I noticed a few drops of something on the pavement under the engine towards the rear. After driving home I also noticed a fuel smell once I shut the truck down and got out. This morning I went out with a flashlight to inspect and didn't really see any wet spots other than on the rear of the cylinder head on the passenger side. It's a little damp there. I'm thinking maybe the banjo bolt for the return line? Looks like it might be difficult to get to, anyone know the size off hand? Do I need to remove it and replace the sealing washers or do these commonly vibrate loose from time to time? Also, while inspecting I saw the the center section of the fron…

So this is my first diesel. I've had it about a year and am getting to know it pretty good, but one thing I've always wondered about is my second overdrive's effectiveness with my high gearing. I've got a Unitrax/Gear Vendor/Laycox divorced overdrive with an auto and 3.55 rear end gears. It all came with the truck when I bought it. I know that when I'm driving in double overdrive it seems to run fine and smooth, but it also runs at pretty low rpm. I think around 1500 at 70. I'm generally on relatively flat freeways, so it doesn't seem to stress the drive train, but I wanted to get any input you guys have on this. Is it hard on the truck? A good thing? It's really nice t…

Good Morning all, well it seems like every 6 months or so this issue returns, i just slayed that dragon last night and its really getting old. my battery clamps are not going to take much more of this before needing to replace them so here is the low down on the recent findings, the Ground on the primary battery has the acid build up, the other three did not. the problem was only presenting itself at speed between 40 and 50 (in the past, this would happen at any speed above 40mph in OD) i have a switch that i can use to kill my alternator (story for another time) so i killed it thinking it could be related to the alternator and the heat we been having. nope is…

I've got a 2002 2500 5speed that's developed a vibration or a miss under light acceleration. This all started after the wiring fried on my relocated ddrp. I've said since repaired the wiring but sometimes the truck acts like it has either a leaking injector line or its getting air in the lines. However its only noticeable at 30 mph in 4th gear putting through town. I dont have any codes except for a p0177 and I know there's no water in the tank or lines. One last thing as soon as I accelerate or downshift to raise the rpms it goes and away. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I read in a thread on CF that the plastic style drain valve on the water separator that comes on Airdogs does NOT drain water; and that Pureflow has recently switched to a metal drain valve in order to solve this problem. I was wondering if any of you had heard of this, and if it's a prudent move to get a new water separator with this new style drain valve on it?

On Dec 9th 2020 I bought a water pump from O'Reilly's and installed it in my pickup. All was good until last night when it went out. It leaked enough coolant out that the radiator fan airflow splashed it into my alternator and caused it to quit charging. My Edge Juice with Attitude said I had 11.8V when I got home. I found my receipt for the water pump and it says it's a Murray CP7145 and it doesn't fit my 01 Cummins, even though that's what O'Reilly's gave me. The pump they gave me fits a 98 and older 12V. A Murray CP6148 fits my 01 and it has a different pump blade design. The 98 pump has a curved plate on it while the 01 style pump doesn't have …

I drained my fuel from my fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets because I needed to fix leaky sump and mount Airdog pump in better spot. When I got ready to pure fuel back in noticed rather large beads of whatever (water, dirt, etc) mixed in with fuel. Finding micron sizing stuff on line, I ran fuel thru coffee filters (supposed to be around 20 microns). The fuel still didn’t look good to me. I then removed Airdog pump from truck and hung it in the fence and with long wires and a remote 12 volt switch and have been running fuel thru the Airdog filters. Airdog says one if its filters is 2 micron. I believe that filter is the one with a water drain valve. Fuel now looks …

I know the oil pressure sending units and readout are not the best in the 99 dodge rams. Mine is fine when running but drops to 0 at idle. The engine sounds perfect so I assume it's the sensor / sending unit. My question, does using fully synthetic affect this at all? I wouldn't think so but thought I'd ask.

man, this thing is AWESOME, so many different parameters can be shown, i found out from it that my TPS needed to be reset, so, i did that....also, for w/e reason, at idle, the MAP thing shows like 30, i don't know if that's good or bad...:confused anyway, here are some pics of where i mounted it and a couple vids of it in action... LOVE that fuel mileage... :hyper :D vids..... gotta wait about a week till i get to around 1/4 of a tank so i can calibrate it all the way right....

good day gents. new to site, so far seems pretty informative. thanks for that. 01 2500 4x4, auto. new to me since 2013. heres the list of issues i believe to be having; engine knock delay in shifting to OD tc lock up hunt. trans slips on left turns(sometimes) so.....with engine knock....cant remember when it started, but its been at least 9 months. noise is constant thru rpm range. i list this as a trans issue as i cant/hope not/ see the engine knocking for 6 months without failing completely. oil pressure indicator working and in normal range, 40psi at idle...thereabouts. even after driving around. ive read flex plate failure is common...perhaps…

Hello everyone I am new with dodge cummins and might be little slow of understanding few thing so please be paintent with me. I recently purchased a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins and discovered that the block was 53 and that it was cracked. So I said no problem, and I went and got a 2001 long block for it. Upon changing over the wiring harness from my 99 to new 2001 I descovered that the 2001 did not have a crack angle sensor. Check on the 01 crank found that there is no wheel for the sensor. Now I know that 99 had a CAS but 01 and on didnot. My question is how do I midigate this problem. Do I change the crankshaft or there is an easier way to do this. Please help.

Could I please get some help. Ive trying to get my 01 6 spd manual started after sitting for 2 years now. I got the fuel problem fixed. turned the key and nothing. new batteries fully charged. Are there still neutral safety switches? something else I could be looking for ?. TIA