2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

OK guys when checking for boost leak do i plug off air horn when i pump it up to 20lbs it don't hold very long i bought tester looked at tube didn't find no good info but installed boost gauge it makes 20 when mashing skinny pedal down 4lb at 50 and holds it 6-8 at 70 holds it could i still have leak its a automatic thanks

Ok, so long short I'm at a friend's right now so certain things are limited. What happened- hit a deer at 50 top of hill ran it over lost control hit a tree stump and broke the steering gear. Limped it back to camp caught a ride into town got parts returned and replaced gear. Bled system got it into town had it aligned, got cold hard steering at start up next day ran to store made it half way back when the truck started clunking from the power steering pump, pulled over and at idle the thing was shaking itself apart. Shut down towed back to friend's. Now we tear the thing apart and find the power steering pump failed and took out the vacuum pump the …

Works good. I did not have to bleed injector lines. Fired right up , I just bleed air at the VP44 connect and the FP gauge before starting I used a snubber fitting from Vulcan for the mechanical fuel gauge, but it didnt work, The gauge needle is bouncing 10-25 psi I guess Ill have to get one off those needle valves. FP guage is steady at 17-18 PSI when I accelerate though. Cruising the gauge needle is bouncing like crazy Anyone else have a snubber not work

Hey guys my rigs been acting weird electrically lately it sat for 9 months while I was saving for a new turbo setup. Now that its up and running im having several what I suspect are electrical issues here are what I think may be the symptoms of my ecu going bad( rough idle at peak high idle rpm, lift pump not cycling when I turn the key on or bump it) I do have fuel pressure while the truck runs It takes longer to start now that I dont have pressure before start up. I've read similar threads but saw no resolutions The other issue im having is my od, it stopped going into overdrive by itself (lock up switch did the trick for a few months) now …

Well guys I finally got my hands on a quad adr so I’ll be joining the V2 tuning addiction soon enough. With the quad I’ll know have the option of doubling up basically all of the gauges I currently have. For the sake of simplicity and laziness, I don’t plan on doing except for the EGTs so I can have the turbo timer. With that, I’d like to try and mount my second egt probe post turbo but haven’t really seen much talk of that done on 2nd gens. Are there recommended places to mount these? Any downpipes that come with a port already welded in place?

I've got this goofy situation going on and was hoping y'all could check my thinking. I'm working on a friends truck that started and died the other day. I get up there expecting to find a bad VP. Instead, I find there is no fuel getting to the lift pump. (Yes, it is a block mounted pump. 300k miles on it!) So I disconnect the suction line from the pump and blow into it. I can hear bubbles in the tank. Now, I pressurize the tank. Barely any fuel comes out. I reconnect all lines, bump the starter, and blow into the tank as the pump is running to force prime it. No go. Should I be looking at a partially plugged line? Or partially plugged basket?

I have a 1999 2500 with manual trans and I added a Quadzilla XZT with a tune that has a high idle on it .I was coming home from work one afternoon and turned off the highway onto a residential street and my rear tires hit a icy patch and started to spin , the rpm's came up and it felt like the high idle kicked in and the truck tried to take off on me , so I pushed in the clutch to stop it and the truck just shut down. I coasted it onto another street and stopped and tried to restart and it wouldn't so I let it set for a few minutes and then it fired right back up . Is there a rev limiter that can shut the truck down or a relay that can trip causing it to not restart and s…

Long story short, I am doing the vulcan draw straw mod in my fuel module and i have to make a bracket to hold the supply and return lines in place. Is mild steel okay to use for this? It would be 2-3" from the bottom of the basket of the fuel module so it would basically always be covered in diesel (I don't imagine it would corrode). It would be incredibly cheaper and easier for me to make it out of mild steel vs aluminium or stainless. I'd enjoy hearing thoughts on this. While we're on the topic, they mention drilling holes in the side of the fuel basket, but this seems like it would be more prone to let fuel out than in. Is it necessary to drill the hol…

My fuel pressure line needle valve arrives monday Are you guys just running the needle valve only,,, for you fuel pressure gauge

picked up my familys 01 2500 that sat for a few years, installed a new DDRP lift pump since the stock in tank was dead, i prime the system all the way to the vp and crack injector lines but only am getting a little fuel out, how much should it be producing when bleeding the air out, after i close the lines up and crank nothing happens it just keeps turning over, any suggestions?

Here's what I followed to gain second gear lockup in my trans. My pacbrake controller will lock it up when it wired to think it's controlling a 48re. I can also command lockup with my mystery switch. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/573451-2nd-gear-lockup-would-nice-can-done.html

What is the benefit of a torque converter having a billet front cover or not? Im not questioning the internals of the TC as I understand what bigger/better components within the TC do but I’m just talking about the billet cover itself...

P0713 (trans temp sensor high) P1763 (governor pressure sensor high) P0753 (overdrive solenoid circuit) P0753A (shift solenoid A electrical) I dont know what to make of these codes. Are they painting some sort of picture I can’t see? It feels like it’s shifting alright... I am just about to put a new TC and transgo kit in the valve body

After 18 years of interesting CTD enthusiasts and transmission specialty outlets all contributing their method, or fix, to the well known TC lock unlock syndrome, I can no longer remain silent. Extensive review of many posts regarding TC lock unlock, the rerouting methodes, the add on filters for APPS and last, but not least,...the "tin-foil hat" brigade. I do realize that each individual or company that contributed to the vast amount of information on the web had good intentions and I must acknowledge that some of the procedures caused me to closely examine what these people were trying to do. I believe it is well known that even a blind mouse occasionally fi…

Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition i…

I have a 1999 Dodge 1 ton Cummins with 2002 engine showing 365K on the ODO. The starter seems to be spinning too slow. Voltage regulator was out on the alternator so that was replaced. Batteries were 4 years old and store checked them failing their testing so they were replaced. The starter speed hasn't changed with the new alternator and batteries. The question is, do I get a reman starter from O'Reilly or AZ, or rebuild the starter that I have? The rebuild kit would be a little cheaper but more labor intensive. Please weigh in with you opinions on the best way to go. Thanks, Les

Hey guys I got a few questions I just installed a compound turbo kit on my 2000 Cummins. My question is why does the small charger need to be set at 25 psi? The lowest I could get it with the Boost elbow is 32 psi when it starts to open, I don't think I can adjust the actuator because it does not have a nut on it. What would the harm be if I just left it at 32 psi? Thanks everybody

Hello will it hurt to delete air box just put air filter on inner fender. also opinions on spectre air filters with pre filter thanks.

Hello all, This has been going on for quite some time now. It's not too often that it bothers me but it's something I want to address come spring. Whenever I take off from a stop hard and i mash the skinny pedal to the floor the truck takes off but i hit the rev limiter and the trans wont shift out of first gear till i back off the throttle. It shifts great when I take off normal and if I mash it in any other gear its fine. I've had the bands and clutch packs replaced and they are adjusted properly. The pressure is turned up to 65 psi on the valve body. The TV cable has been set correctly. Is it possible I need to replace the solenoids insid…

ok fellows pulled hose of my turbo check it no in and out slack but up and down seems 1-4 inch found a garret 54 trim 0.60 turbo used for 300 bucks will it work on this 5.9 with 4 inch exhaust and 50hp injectors ez chip fass pump no nothing about turbos if not wheres ben place to buy one or info thanks.