2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I bought my truck 6 months ago with only 47,000 miles on it. It had sat for almost 4 years with a dead VP44. Before even starting or cranking the engine I changed the oil and filter. After running it for about 2,000 miles I started getting a very bad odor in the cab when I would stop at a stoplight or stop sign. Finally tracked the smell down to the engine oil. Starts getting that horrible stench around 2,000 miles or so. Any ideas on what it possibly is? Planning on getting oil analysis done as soon as I can get the trans problem taken care of and start driving it again.

I stopped by a Transmission shop a Custom TC shop recommended, and talked to Walter the owner This guy knows his stuff. He also uses Goerend Trans parts and TCs. He was working on a 48re and was showing me several tricks he does like machineing planet gear housings for needle bearings in stead of thrush washers etc. Showed me the TCS input shafts he uses etc I was helping a guy I knows son that has a Tranny shop, but he actually sucks compared to Walters work. Walters has a clean organized shop. Guys shop I was helping is a Mess. If a guy's shop is a mess, Tool left out everywhere, disorganised and laying all over the place and trash everywhere i…

Well found out the hard way on my way in to work this morning that when the fuel gauge says 1/4 tank it really means empty?. Never ran it down much past half always keep it topped up but was running late so I figured I'd stop for fuel tonight on my way home. No such luck. I was literally 4 blocks from my shop when it just shut off. Was like what the?? Tried restarting, bumping the key to check if lift pump runs. Check sooo made the embarrassing call to the shop had a tech come with some fuel to get me to the shop. I ain't gonna hear the end of this from my guys for awhile lol.

I know the previous owner didn't do this. He's the kind of guy that would buy a $300 crimper to do one crimp. So that means it came this way from the factory, or the dealer did this. My guess is that the dealer damaged the connector while removing the stock lift pump. This is the connector for the manifold air pressure sensor. Does anyone have an idea what kind of problem this would cause? I mean, if the truck runs, but doesn't have this sensor data, what would the truck do?

I found a source for VP44 connectors, and pigtails. http://americadiesel.us/ $13.20 for the connector shell $2.20 for each pigtail (I ordered 10, to allow for a few mistakes) $57 shipping My total was $92. Even with International Priority FedEx fees, that's still cheaper than other sources. It's a genuine AMP 965734, new. Our stock connector has two holes blocked. This one has all nine holes open, so I'll have to plug two. It did not come with the wire-cover back-plate. I ordered 10 pigtails. I was expecting them to be all one color, but I was happy to see that they randomized the colors for me. They are…

Hi there, I've searched Google, this forum, Cummins forum, and TDR without luck - if this is a dumb or repeat question I apologize in advance! The previous owner of my Dodge put the Autometer FP sender between the fuel filter and the line to the VP. The sender failed, I ordered a new one plus the snubber to prevent the premature wear on that part. Problem: the FP sender is angled such that the back butts up against the drain valve and the snubber definitely will not fit. I'm pretty scared of messing up the VP and don't want to tinker around without the advice/recommendations from more experienced folks! Can I rotate the sender/fitting so it doesn't stick…

Hi there. Had my Airdog100 installed yesterday and the mechanic went to put the fuel pressure sending unit in and broke the nut at the top for the ground! I was wondering if I could solder that and make it work or figure out a way to use it where it will hold together? Guess it's not that expensive but why order a new one if this one is fine. I will include a pic and hopefully you can see it good enough to tell me. Thanks guys!

I had all Chevy wiring stripped and tied everything into the dodge fuse panel. Now I just have to customize my dash to get dodge cluster in there. And put my rear bumper on. 208B7267-28B4-44D2-8B65-FA39AD1F0142.MOV

Anyone have a good place and price to purchase the Frantz filter system ...thanks

Well today while doing my oil change I finally gave up on my Frantz Filter. I've had enough. Back when I got it was rather easy to just change filters (roll of toilet paper) and go on. Well now toilet paper is so different from brand to brand and now the length is wrong, core size is different, etc. Just a big pain in my to deal with now. So I'm pulling it off and removing it permanently. I'll be looking towards a better solution in time with a remote mount base and a spin on bypass filter some wrote up in the past. The other thing is I'm tired of the leaking lid all the time no matter what I do I've always got oil oozing out of the can. I'm tired of the oily mess and fi…

A quick question... I'm installing the Frantz filter (under the truck on the rear of the front crossmember, upside down) and I'm wondering what is the best way to push the hose onto the barbed connectors. What have you guys done to make the easier?

Got my Frantz bypass filter installed. I am running the BHAF, so I mounted the filter in the same area screwed to the wheel well. I changed my oil and main filter at the same time. Had 10,000 miles on the oil and filter. Deborah tried to talk me into not changing my oil, but I had an aversion to that concept. Upon initial fire up it took a minute or two for the oil to start coming out the line to the oil fill cap. One it started coming out I was surprised at the volume. I assumed it would be less. My oil has never stayed amber color after oil change. It has had a dark tinge to it as soon as things started circulating after oil change. After a few days the oil is visibly…

Hi guys,Because of Michael's recommendation I went ahead & purchased a used canister, bracket & filter from Ebay. I need some info on what fittings to buy from the Frantz site. Michael, you used to have a picture of the return line going through the oil cap. I think I'd like to use the same. Any problems with that for you? What do I need for that? Also, I read on one of your postings that you used an outlet from the factory filter mount, what do I need for that?Is it less messy to change the filter with the lines on the top. Is that why you did it that way? I only have about 1,500 miles on this oil, I think I'm going just install it when I get my parts together…

Trying to decide which to purchase, the Frantz filter for 200.00 or the Amsoil bypass, 260.00. The amsoil dealer has a 1999 cummins and has run so far 90,000 miles with the last oil change. He bought the truck to test his products. He changes the filter and two qts of oil every 25000 miles and runs a oil sample once a year. So far everything is good. Any ideas...thanks :confused:

Anyone have firsthand experience with either? Whay can be said about either? Do they live up to the hype?

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I got a rusted one today thank got it went in my driveway in the morning before I went anyway Now did anyone do this ? the one went bad is right under the exhaust manifold and contacted the local cummisn dealer with an engine serial number etc and they said I must make sure I have three of the same size right under the exhaust manifold ? Can anyone help here ? I plan on taking the exhaust manifold off and replace all three if there is actually three but before I take anything off I like to have parts on hand.

So I have had a problem this winter with a freezing fuel filter. I put it in when I installed after market lift pump. The filter is a small plastic type with a metal mesh screen ( required by the lift pump manufacturer to have a valid warranty). Its located next to the starter between it and the frame rail. Never had problems before this winter. To solve the problem I have had to double the amount of anti gel as I have normally used and add # 1 diesel to keep it from freezing and stalling . Is there a different solution to this issue other than installing a heated fuel filter on the frame rail ? Thanks in advance JOHN

Well I finally gone in done it... I yanked out the factory batteries and replaced them with a set of WalMart Batteries. I was shocked I to find that the Group 27 batteries where only $89 bucks a piece and they are 850 CCA batteries. I was smart and brought my tools along and changed them right in the parking lots and wheeled the tired stock batteries in the store and collected my $18 bucks worth of core charge. I got to admit the charging voltage is a bit lower and the starter seems to spin much easier. But after getting nearly 10 years from the stock batteries it was time to retire them.

Probably not very intersting, but maybe it could help someone out. Hell I like cummins engines, I would probably kill some time looking at pictures of a guy tearing one apart, figure somebody else might. Reason for pulling it... NVG 5600 tranny went out the other day, so I decided to just go ahead and pull and freshen this motor up, dry compression is pretty high so I will probably not be doing anything as far as honing or new rings. Might, might not. Haven't decided yet. I WILL be replacing the rod and main bearings, all gaskets including front and rear main and head, and will be cleaning and painting it up with cummins apex red engine paint, part number #3885910 just fo…