2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I just purchased an 01 2500 6speed 4x4 Cummins and I’ve noticed after driving it for a few weeks now that if I start in 1st gear, let up on the clutch a couple inches it quickly engages and gets moving no issue. If I start in 2nd gear, it starts to engage at the same distance from the floor but as I keep letting the pedal out it doesn’t seem to grab any more until I get to the top of the pedal travel then it grabs fully and takes off at the last little bit of clutch pedal travel. Starting in 2nd there isn’t any pedal travel after the truck is fully in 2nd gear. Also at rest there is an inch or 2 of free play in the pedal, I can lift up on the pedal with my foot as it is j…
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Pulling my motor, need to unhook the condensor so that I can come straight forward with my motor, minus the oil pan. Can't lay the condensor to the side because the bottom line is hard all the way past the air filter box, can't bend that stuff... So it needs to come off and to get it off I need to evacuate the r134 charge without freezing my skin, frostbite, maming myself, and etc... Any good methods?
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Afternoon while replacing my head studs today to some ARPs I noticed some water in the head stud wells. It doesn't look like coolant as it's clear vs green and hardly mixed with oil. Of the 8 studs I've done two of them had this water in the hole. There is no real smell and is does have a slight viscosity but dries up like water would vs that "oily" feeling from coolant or oil. See the video of me using a clear straw to extract the liquid. I've read that our studs do not go into any water jackets, I've also read about finding condensation/some water while doing head studs but this seems a little much. The obvious answer is a head gasket but I'm not seeing any …
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I'm having torque convertor locking/unlockin problems. It happens between 40-55mph. At first unlocking was very fast, maybe one second. Next day unlocking lasted couple of second at time. I know something about ac noise, can it really cause that or is there something else wrong?? Any ideas where to start?? Brake light switch, output shaft speed sensor?? Thanks in advance!
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Was surfing the site yesterday and ran across a comment stating that it is not recommended to flush out the troque convertor when changing fluid?Why would that be a problem?
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Ignition won't ground out have to pull fuel relay to kill engine dash lights stay on with key off already changed ignition disconnected alternator pulled starter to see if contacts hung up idk what to do I gotta get it fixed by tomorrow
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Anyboday know what size socket I need for the Differential pinion nut? Hit a tire last night that was in the road and one one the steel wires took out my Diff seal.So now I'm stuck in Madison,WI.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
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Truck will not start, fuel pressure @ 4-7 psi, flow after 30sec. app 8 oz. This will be the fourth pump. [*] :banghead: The last two were the "campaign" pump. I've read the thread "fuel pump issues" but the last post to it was March of 09. What is a good pump that will give me 17 psi, last for more than 50k miles, and not brake the bank?
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Couple items I am having trouble with. Have an 01 with 190,000. 50hp injectors and a newish DTT Assassin lift pump. Original VP as far as I know. I do run 2-stroke at 1oz/gallon. Ever since I installed the assassin lift pump I have been having trouble with consistent fuel pressure. For those that don't know the DTT is a mechanical fuel pump that drives off the harmonic balancer, so in theory, as rpms increase so does fuel pressure. I have yet to see this happen. Right now I will idle at 17psi and drop to 10psi when I get into the pedal. I changed out the fuel filter a couple times and when I do the problem goes away for a day or so, then returns. I was curio…
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So a bit of a rough day today. I went and picked up a 350,000 BTU heater out in the middle of nowhere today for my dad. I was headed home (about 5 miles from the guys house I bought the heater from) and some guy decided he wasn't going to share the road with me. This was a pretty narrow 2 way road covered in ice. I pulled it over and went into the ditch where there's about a foot drop off into snow and an embankment with sporadic trees. The nice gentlemen didn't have the courtesy to stop, so I hopped out and broke the branches on the tree already hitting my hood. I then rocked it back and forth to get moving and plowed down the ditch a way through another tree (even folde…
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Just added a pint of Lucas diesel fuel additive to the crankcase of my 2003 Ford Crown Vic by mistake. What should I do?Mohok
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So, I'll be getting my truck back from the shop next week with a non-53 block engine and a stock rebuilt transmission. I've heard of people who claim they've replaced their trany within a year of new. What are the facts? How long does a rebuild last and what precautions can I take to extend the life? Thanks
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My truck is having a hard time starting. When idling the pump pressure 14. When going 70 it is 11. When trying to start it is 0. I now get the p0216 code and 1693 companion code. It is possible low pressure set off the codes so let's hope that is the case. The codes came a few days after the hard starting started. I have a new oem lift pump. 730k miles.
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Have trouble getting my old 2001 Cummins work truck to run. Truck ran great but was leaking fuel from drain plug on side of the fuel filter housing, so i changed it out. Truck was hard to start, then would run, but would die if i put it in gear. Did this acouple of times, then bucked and saw big cloud of grey smoke come out of tail pipe. Now truck is in what seems to be limp mode( iknow these older trucks dont have them) but truck will not go over 2000 rpm. Theres no more smoke at all, just has no power ,Thought maybe i had air in the fuel lines so ive tried first with the lift pump valve , and then cracked the injector lines, still nothing has changed. Totally stumped.
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Have an 01 5 speed , super chips, fass 150 running 15ish psi, 7x10s. Lately it's been running like crap. Smoking like a freight train through all the gears. If I ease into it into 3rd and 4th shifting about 2200rpm it just lays a cloud, same between 55 and 75 in 5th. Never done this before. No boost gauge or egt gauge so I can't tell if there is any change there. I've changed all my filters in the last 800 miles. Turbo has no play and my boots all seem good. My fuel mileage dropped from about 18 to 19, down to around 14 or 15, hand calculated. Any ideas? I've got smaller injectors on the way just because. But I'm not 100% convinced that's the issue.
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Finally got all my gauges installed. What is the acceptable range for the Pyro? It is an ISSPRO? I will be towing this weekend and just wanted to get an idea of what to expect.
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First time posting here but been lurking forever. I realized that there are more electrical gurus here after searching the posts, so here's my issue. And yes I'll be doing W-T's mod. My alternator is making a bunch of AC current after my grid heater relays stuck on last summer. I didn't replace the relays until this week so I didn't realize the ecm wasn't doing a preheat or fuel pump prime pre-start. I also remote start every morning so I didn't hear the fass fire off. So my questions. 1, I'm having my spare denso alternator rebuilt. But should I find a Bosch instead? They aren't subject to diode failure as easily. 2, Will the ecm continue to further…
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There's some plastic clips that hold the trans. cooler lines and keeps them separated and in place so they don't rub. The one clip attaches to an oil pan stud. During a maintenance inspection I noticed mine broke and the line is rubbing through. Got a new line and hose coming from R A. Anybody know where I can get those clips?
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Sorry Guys if this is beating a dead horse, Been trying all the serches with no luck.there was a good wright up on the cummings forum, I found it But,, I can't get it to open anymore,:shrug:I Have a pump coming from Jacob, just wanting to go over all the details. The little do's and donts.Thanks Ed...............
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Are they still in business? Tried calling twice and left messages, Friday and Monday. I also emailed them, does anyone have a better number that actually goes to the business not a automated answering service?
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