2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Good evening guys! I went to go start my truck this morning it was about -4*C and it just cranked and cranked and cranked. Plugged in a code reader and got the code P0253 and the tpyical overboost code from the edge comp. Once the codes cleared, i turned the key back off, waited a couple few minutes, then attempted to start the truck again, started right away like nothing happened. let it idle for a couple minutes then hit the exhaust brake and let it idle for about 10 minutes, then shut it off and carried on my day driving my other truck as i had to be at the airport to leave for work. Side note, it would have very seldomly like once a month if that for the past 3 or…

Hi, I'm new to this site. Have a question about a transmission issue: Started almost one year ago, while pulling my 5th wheel RV. Had driven about 15 miles and it went into limp mode. Took to a transmission repair shop the following day and they replaced all the solenoids in the transmission. Problem continued, so took truck back to repair shop where they said it had thrown a code for the 3rd and 4th shifting solenoid (malfunctioned). They then replaced that. Problem still persisted. Repair shop then said it needed a new 'brain' or PCM. Took it to a Dodge dealer who replaced this part. Still having problems. Here is what is occurring: When it first started acting up, upon…

So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*. Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way. The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on…

Hello Everyone, My truck's two piece rear driveshaft was very worn after 172,000 miles (doh), so after speaking with a couple of driveline shops I selected one to build me a one-piece aluminum to replace the two piece. The shop required u joint size confirmation so after pulling the rear u joint straps, i measured the caps/width & came up with 1410 ujoints. The shop didn't seem phased that i had 1410 u joints (said could have 1350 or 1410) but surprised since I thought all D70's were 1350. I continued my investigation and after more web research concluded I may have a D80 Hybrid (like the manual trucks) based on the diff cover bolt pattern. …

So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*. Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way. The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on disassembly. Problems …

Started truck this morning, was the 1st time it was cold enough for high idle to work since getting it enabled. Ran back in the house for a few minutes, when I jumped back in and stepped on clutch I realized I had a CEL. Of course I'm out of town so went to oreillys and it shows p0237/map sensor. Any suggestions where to start? It is way down on power too

My high idle Mpg switch has worked great until today. If I put it on Mpg my iat temp on my scan gauge II reads -41 and I immediately geat a trouble code p0113. If I put it on high idle it does not high ldle anymore and the iat temp is -41 and a trouble the code p0118. what's going on here its not even been 2 years since I purchased the switch.

I luckily noticed starter motor solenoid wire boot/ insulation was rotted on a pretty new starter motor and the heavy wire was exposed. Could have shorted out on the nose of the solenoid. See photo in link http://www.fostertruck.com/grommet-cover-for-motor-wire-denso.html Im supprized that heavy wire is not insulated, just the cheap rubber boot. Damn ! I zip tied a plastic wire loom cover over it, temporary fix . Till I pull the starter and do a good fix I'm sure you other guys ran into this issue. Has anyone done a good fix remedy for this starter issue? Piece of heavy duty shrink rap?

Ok truck has 330,000 miles started noticing a howling noise at idle it's really pronounced at the oil pan when driving it only makes the noise when it's in gear between 1000-1500 rpm the noise is more pronounced when cold and not as bad when the motor is warmed up any help would be greatly appreciated !!

So a while back my truck started having a Miss while running down the road, it seems like it was worse when you would pull a load to begin with. After a while this mess began to be more of a nuisance and would show up sometimes only when you're giving it throttle and sometimes only when you're getting off the fuel. This issue has been going on for about 4 months and seemingly to get progressively worse and has gotten out to the point to where I can't drive the truck. I've cleaned the batteries make sure I have good connections at 12 volts in each battery and the truck will start fine and run for about 3 minutes and start stumbling and eventually stalling I've eliminated t…

has new gasket but it seems as if the bottom side closest to trans is leaking out of corner ? maybe they didn't clean surfaces good enough! any advice helps just seeking help thanks

Hey guys, So I'm finally getting close to ordering some DFI injectors! I spoke with Chris yesterday and after chatting about my truck and goals for a bit he recommended some of their 100hp .009 injectors. Now at the same time I'm also looking at rebuilding my hx35. I already have a rebuild kit from DAP, so I was planning to pick up a worn out stock turbo and rebuild it because I need a new compressor wheel as mines got a knick in one of the blades. Anyway, all this got me thinking that maybe there is a better option turbo wise. I have an edge comp right now and honestly, switching from the smarty had me disappointed with the lag. Smarty had zero lag, instant boost an…

My fuel system is laying on my carport floor right now. Before I re-install it I was wondering if there was anything else I might want to upgrade to make it better. Playing around on internet found a posting about cooling the VP with fans or fuel coolers. Mostly 3 or 4 people posting between 2005-2014. Seams like good idea in theory. But if idea is really good I would think there would be kits available or more info about them. I read somewhere (Blue chip diesel I think) that the most heat the VP is exposed to is the first 20 min after shutting off motor thru heat transfer. Any ideas about lowering temps in VP? Anybody have a ideas about cooling your…

Hello to the good people of mopar1973man.com! I am very new to this site as far as having a account but have been a avid "user" for some time now. I figured it may be time to settle in after the site change. Looking forward to helping where i can and learning a few things aswel! Anyways, on to whats fun and exciting Please allow me to unravel my situation. I have a 1998.5 Dodge ram 2500 5spd 4x4 (vp44, vin 6) that is throwing one ecu code. P0123. I have read the write up on mopar1973man.com regarding this code. The resulting symptoms consisted of dead pedal, intermitent throttle response, the truck reving on its own only when i touch the throttle. I have scoured the …

Having a problem my 01 dodge. It's started awhile back with what seems like a miss at idle after driving. It doesn't effect performance at all. Takes fuel fine just has rough idle. Have changed fuel filter. But the other day after driving I shut it off went to start it back and it would start then die. Lift pump cycles when keys turned on and also runs when bumping starter. Gauge shows 25psi when running but won't start. I let it set for awhile and it started right up and runs fine. This truck is basically stock except for Diablo power puck. Don't know where to start. No CEL. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Recently I became the owner of a 26' gooseneck flatbed trailer. Its awesome having such a piece of equipment. I can haul multiple pallets of pellets home from the store at once, haul the tractor around for side jobs etc. The heaviest load I have towed is 4 tons of pellets for our pellet stoves in our home. 8K pounds plus my truck that weighs 7100 plus the trailer I'm guessing is around 2,500 or so. Just rounding up to 18K pounds...my truck did "OK" up the grades. Steepest grade to pull going home was 5% for 2 miles. Started out at 65mph at the bottom and was barely doing 35 at the top. If I go with twin turbos it would purely and solely be for the added power for …

Hi guys, I looked through the topics on this forum and didn't find anything specific about this. I have determined that my Raptor pump functions only for the first 15 to 30 seconds after startup, then quits. I hotwired it to the battery and it works fine, so it seems to be a power interuption to the pump causing this. If this is true it doesn't seem that a relay would solve the problem, as the same power interruption would interfere with power to the relay. Could this be some sort of ECM issue, or maybe just a ground, or reflash needed? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

So a bunch of guys on 208 coal rollers Facebook page here in Idaho is pretty much calling me dumb for saying putting ATF in your fuel is dumb, I just don't seem to see any benefits to putting all those friction modifiers in my fuel and putting it through my vp44

My truck is a 2001. I have an older AirDog, and an ISSPRO electric fuel gauge. The issue I'm having is that when I first bump the ignition I get about 15-16psi of fuel pressure. Then running, or even if you let the pump shut off and then rebump the ignition, the fuel pressure goes up to 26psi. I really need to get my test gauge on it, but two different sending units and gauges have been put on it, and both read the same. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of what I should check? Is it the AirDog, that's marked as being regulated at 15 psi, did I screw up with how I installed the gauge? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, the AirDog was on before…

:l Stupid drive shaft... U joints shot, and the centering ball probably needs done too. Bought the ball kit at oh reallys yesterday. 50 smackers for a ball with needles in it. Wow... The boot on the joint looks toast too, so she do i get that from? Thinking i should return the ball kit and order online somewhere instead. A new drive shaft is 2x as much than replacing the parts myself. Thoughts?