2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
-
Been throwing the low voltage (1488) code, the batteries are new and the cables are clean and tight.Anyone have an idea where i need to look/go next to find the problem???The truck seems to run ok, Just like to find the problem so I can fix-it.Thanks Ed.
-
-
- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Hey, I have a question and want to make sure i am not over thinking this, I did the conversion a few weeks ago when my regulator in the ECM decided to go crazy and cook my alternator i did the conversion that in the tech article but did come changes because it tried to overcharge (bad reference voltage sampling point) with that fixed, I am now getting 14.4 with a high of 14.5 and a low of 14.3 so here is my question and concern, from what i understand, the ecm would cut the alternator when the grids would cycle. this conversion does not allow this provision. now i do have a circuit designed that will cut the alternator when the grids are energized. currently …
-
-
- 15 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Hello and thanks in advance I've got a 2001 cummins, 24v with a 5 speed. Its stock only with a BHAF swap and a turbo-back exhaust. I got the truck from my uncle and it was well maintained and have most of the records for it. has 240,000km's on the odometer Back in 2015 the VP44 was changed to a bosch remanufactured, its only got maybe 25,000km's on it since. so its basically brand new but outside of warrenty Anyways periodically I've notice a spot of diesel under the truck but have never been able to track down where it was coming from. the other day it left a big spot, so i decided to wash the engine bay to see if I've got any sort of wet spots. well today I …
-
- 2 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Hey,I'm thinking I need to set my valves on my truck sometime soon, but I have a few questions.1. Are the valves set hot or cold???2. Does the valve cover gasket have to be replaced??? Or is it reusable?? It cost $133 from O'Reilly's!!3. Do you just set the engine to TDC on any cylinder or does it have to be #1?? Then you just rotate 180 to BDC... that's right??I've set a lot of valves on VWs, but they are different as you turn the engine to every cylinder!Thanks,Winslow
-
- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
what does a scan guage exactly does a scan guage do does it help with power can it work with my edge comp i have 225,000miles and now want some heads up on when something will go wrong with truck before check engine light comes on this question is brought on by the code of 0237 that you guys are helping me with
-
-
- 14 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Ok so I was looking under my truck because a friend of mine told me to check steering shaft because when I am making a turn the steering wheel kinda takes an extra turn like if it was loose or even when I change lanes, so I was looking under and saw this leak could it be coming out of the steering box or can it be coming out of the pwr steering pump because I have seen a leak from there but very small. Any clues ?Also if I do need to change the steering box any tips on how to do it?
-
-
- 10 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
I have a 01' 24v turbo 2500. Recently I have noticed that the truck does not want to shift at or around the 20 mph mark. I can press the accelerator down and the rpms go way up but no shift or increase in speed. But, if I take my foot off the accelerator , as if I were shifting manually, and then press back down it shifts fine and speeds up, rpm go normal and the succeding shifts are fine as well. Any ideas?
-
- 12 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
So i recently changed the fluid in my rear end (85-145 full synthetic) i checked around and was told that 4oz. of friction modifier was the proper amount to add to my rear dif. and i did so, problem is i am now getting a lot of wobble out of the rear end (this started about 3-4 days after changing fluid) and honestly feels like something is a little loose, the only other thing i could think of is the pinion bearings, and honestly they aren't that sloppy....any ideas, did i use too much modifier?all wheel lugs are torqued, tolerances were tight in the dif. when i had it apart last week (minus the slight play in the pinion but it was like that and didn't cause a wobble prio…
-
- 7 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
I'm trying to decide between an airdog 150 or the airdogII. I know the 150 will supply more fuel than I'll need, but they are set at 15psi and I would like to be able to adjust it. 15psi is good, but is it best? I would like to see 16 to 18. Any input would be great.
-
-
- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Trying to diagnose a my truck dying while driving down the freeway. Truck is a 1999 Cummins 5 Speed in a 83 Ford. VanAken Box 1/2 Napa fuel strainer before the Fuel pump Walbro 255 Fuel Pump 20 Mic Water Separator w/drain Donaldson P558000 3 Mic Fuel Filter Donaldson P551313 1/2 fuel line from the sump to VP The Fuel system is all brand new from tank to the filters to the 1/2 line to the VP as of 6 months ago. Here is how yesterday went: Brother gave me a bottle of Power Service Diesel Kleen and figured why not try it, I haven’t had a heavy trailer on in a while and have been using it on short trips. Filled up 38.8 gallons of fuel and poured…
-
-
- 15 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Here Mike, make an article around this video Fine I will later.
-
-
- 3 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
So in the recent past, I had coolant spurt out of my radiator cap or overflow bottle. I know this because there were little spots all over the engine bay that were obviously coolant. I can't remember if my radiator cap had come loose allowing it to spray, or if it just came from the overflow bottle. I know at one point my overflow bottle was really high, like above the MAX line so I drained a little bit and then it seemed to be too low. I must've done this when the engine was still hot and just didn't think about it, so it probably would've just drained back down to a normal level had I left it. Well I figured now is as good as time as any to change the thermo…
-
- 10 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Hello, at the risk of being redundant on the forum, I drive a 98.5 24v with a 5 speed manual. About a year ago I started having a slight stutter at idle. It’s not hard, just enough to to feel and hear and it’s very erratic and only when the engine is at operating temp. At the time I was seeing some metal shavings in my fuel filter housing every time I would change it so I attributed it to the lift pump. Within the last month I changed my lift pump to a FASS 165, afterward my truck developed a hard start issue. Due to the fact my VP was original to the truck and I figured my old lift pump had warm enough to have low fuel pressure, I replaced it with a…
-
- 6 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Check this one out. Looks like it would be cheaper than 2 stroke and lube even better than XDP. http://opti-lube.com/diesel-fuel-improver/xl-diesel-fuel-improver/diesel-fuel-improver-xl.html http://opti-lube.com/downloads/intertektesting.pdf
-
-
- 18 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
I bought my truck with some unknown "140 hp" injectors. I've always run hot (400f idle) and attributed it to cheap 5 hole tips. As it turns out, the truck ran amazingly well for not having a crush washer under the no. 4 jnjector! I bought a turbo and injector set and these new injectors mademail a new truck out of it. Turbo should go in this next weekend. Moral of the story? Injectors are still easy to install, and still make a world of difference. If I ever pick up another truck I am changing the injectors or having themy pop tested immediately.
-
- 19 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Won't shift out of 1st. gear. You can feather the throttle pedal than it might shift. I need help! I don't want to just start changing parts.
-
- 8 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
ok am replacing the front driverside axle seal and front driverside wheel bearing First off do all 2500's have the Dana 60 upfront. I looked at the differential and it doesnt say. There is a metal tag that has the #'s 52070136A0 354 611 223Do those #'s mean anything to anybody.Any suggestions or tips on replacing the seal inside the differential.Any tips on removing the hub have heard it can be a bear to get offThanks Rob
-
-
- 10 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
Hi, Excuse me to disturb you, I have a dodge ram 98.5 cummins 24v with 4wd, and I would like to remove definityvely the light on instrument panel ( not the bulb) , but I would like to remove all abs wire which go to the dash board and cause the lights on . I have changed all wheels speed sensors, and I think its now the abs module. SO As I have no money to change it I would like to remove. I imagine there is a wire behind the instrument cluster which arrive to signal a problem with abs , so I would like to cut it to finish with this. Thank you for your help.
-
-
- 16 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
how long do you guys let your engine idle before moving? I thought 10-15 second was long enough to get oil to everything.This forum is great with lots of feedback and interesting discussionStart up idle time
-
-
- 16 replies
- 2.5k views
-
-
If I tested my alternator correctly... touching the positive probe of my multimeter to the big black wire on back of alternator and negative probe to the negative post of the battery.. with my multimeter set to 2000mV... I'm getting a reading of 1. Does not fluctuate or anything. Is this okay or am I doing it wrong?
-
- 7 replies
- 2.5k views
-