2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Can the cam position sensor be tested with a DMM for the correct resistance? If so, what should the value be? This is on an 01 2500 auto. Trying to track down what's causing a P1488 code among others. The trouble-shooting procedure tells us to replace the cam position sensor but we've done that a couple times. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I just remembered I had a weird thing happen and can't explain nor has it occured again. While I was towing my traveel trailer this last trip I had my cruise set for 55 MPH cruising towards Emmett, ID. It was really strange it was like someone lifting and stomping the throttle in a really jerky up down random cycle. Now remember I'm a fly by wire system no vacuum motor cruise. As for error codes there is none I check while driving (Scan Gauge II). As for the APPS sensor it shows 0 while cruise is active there is no signal (Scan Gauge II). I tested my alternator noise once I got to Emmett, ID and it was a normal 0.023 to 0.027 AC volts. After being shut down for the night …

Hi everyone I hope someone can provide some advice. I have a 1998.5 3500 with a nv4500. It has an aftermarket lift pump, TST Comp, and ts mvp. The current issue has never happened before and I’ve owned the truck since 2017. Over the weekend my radiator sprang a leak. I noticed it when the check engine light came on and temp read ~240. I pulled over and shut it off. While replacing the rad I had two wires where the insulation wore off short. It was the “Cummins bus power” wires (see wiring diagram). I fixed them and the radiator and went to start the truck and no wait to start light and the truck won’t start. I messed around Saturday looking for bad wires, and checking fu…

Ok thought I had resolved my Startup Idle issue... If you watch the video the second startup is what i am talking about... the first start it barley did it the last start was normal... This behavior can happen at anytime... cold engine starts, hot engine starts... sometimes have to crank for a for or five seconds and it will startup then do it... other times like in the video link below it starts easy and does it... the weird thing is... it does not do it all the time... The truck did not do this at all before the new injectors and lift pump... other then that I think it runs great... The link below is the idle issue... second start up... a little on the firs…

This turbo has the steel tube from turbo to waste gate actuator. Is there a way to get a small boost increase?

I am trying to figure out who to buy an Injection pump from. Most are right around $1,000 give or take $50. I had planned to buy a stealth plate and injector nozzles along with the pump... However, It has been brought to my attention, that any sort of wire tap WILL void the warranty. I have been told that most places sell the same pump, so its areally all about who you like. I really like Moparman's set up with RV275 injectors, and Edge comp box. The comp box is a wire tap box, therefor, No warranty.Questions:1. Who have YOU bought a pump from, and how do you like it?2. How dangerous is a wire tap? 3. What is a good set up for a non-wire tap programmer? 4. I know you "Sho…

Anybody with twin turbos running and oil bypass? I pulled the trigger on an Amsoil kit but I'm running a twin setup so not sure where to get my oil feed. I've heard of people putting a t in the filter housing ports but im worried i will starve a turbo of the needed oil

Getting ready for a new locker here is the case spreader i built.Flat bar is 2"x1" with 1 1/4" tubing weld to the ends and 1" acme thread. .

During the day, 1st time using cruise control it accelerates. Set it at any speed between 45-75 and it continually creeps up. Turn it OFF - ON - set it - multiple time and it starts working fine. Anybody seen this and have a solution? No warning lights and no codes.

I just replaced my injection pump and lift pump. I put a factory replacement raptor lift pump on. After bleeding all the lines the truck will start and run fine. Once you turn the truck off it will start and run for 5-10 second and shut off. After that it will not start back until you bleed the injectors again. Please help.

I have been having issues with my truck towing, seems to have a lack of power. Well for the fun of it I ran the 3x key thing on my truck and read the codes on my SuperChip and this is NOW what it is telling me.PCU 1693ECU 0216 & 0234I just had my injector pump tested at a shop in Green Bay only to pay these guys $700+ to test my injector pump, try to fix my turbo that they tell me my waste gate was stuck. Of course, broken bolts and yada, yada a huge bill and they tell me my stock turbo was cracked.So hence, I buy a new turbo $1200 and install the little wire to my map sensor so I dont get the 0234 code (over boost condition). Obiviously the little wires are not …

Just wondering if anybody has had any dealings with Flagship one for ecm or pcm replacement. Is their lifetime warranty any good. Dale

Hello all, I believe I have a bad connector ring O-ring on injector #1. I can see it weeping. I loosened the fuel line and tried to see if seated correctly, that looked to be good. That is why I'm suspecting the bad o-ring. Seems like a easy fix. Do I really need that tool from Snap-on to pull tube out? Also if anybody has part number for them, from Cummins or the dealership. I would appreciate the info.Thanks,John

Customer called me yesterday asked if I could tow their truck in and see if I could figure out what's wrong with it! It's a 99 2500 2wd auto with stock 24v new lift pump and reman vp44. The truck starts and lopes hard with no throttle pedal. No engine codes. Anyone have any ideas? The vp44 was put on about 4 months ago and it's been sitting at another diesel shop for 3.5 months. I don't know where to start!

Howdy there everyone, hope everyone is well and healthy! So during this “pandemic” slow days at work has given me more free time to mess with the 24v so I have some 7x.12 nozzles that I’ve had laying around but I know they’re way too much for my he351 because as of right now I still get tons of turbo shutter, looking at new turbo options, on Power Driven Diesel my preferred place to get parts, they have upgraded he351’s 62,64,67mm anyone have any luck with these? Or I’m looking at an sxe 362 or 364.5 if I was to go this route would I go a .70 or .80 t3 housing? I’m looking to be around 550-600hp on a single yes I know compounds the way to go on these 24v’s but man droppin…

It seems since I brought my truck into the dealer for the 3 cylinder high idle cold start enabling my grid heaters haven't worked. I see the wait to start light come on but the voltage doesn't change. I have to plug it in even at 0'C now or it won't start. Lots of white smoke for the first few minutes when I do get it running . Could there be another problem I'm missing maybe? Can a dealer possible program stuff to mess up or maybe accidentally delete my grid heaters somehow?

I am about to have the Airdog 100 installed and have a quick and easy questions. Someone said to put the bigger spring in for 17psi versus the regular 15psi and i twas included in his parts for the AD. There is one spring in the bag with hardware, is the 15psi spring in already and you have to change it with this one or it's an extra and I need to get it here before I do the AD install? Just curious, wasn't positive. Thanks!

My 2000 1Tn, 4wd, auto with 340K just started giving me the above engine code. Looking it up, it stands for TURBOCHARGER BYPASS VALVE OPEN. Does anyone have experience addressing this problem? Where do I start to identify where the problem is? (Please don't say "Turbocharger" ) Is this likely a minor problem (adjustment or small part replacement) or is this likely a major problem (replacement of the turbo)? What are the driving symptoms of this problem code? The truck starts and seems to drive OK even with this check engine light on. (I am not getting any other stored OBDII codes.) Any help on how to address the problem would be appreciated. To Moparma…

Hello, I have a 1999 dodge ram 2500 with the cummins obviously and a hurting automatic transmission, I dont know if the unit needs to be completly rebuilt again or what, but it will not shift firm, like before, it hesitates and has developed a studder shift were it shifts up down then up agian this occurs in first and seccond and seccond to third. I am lost on these trannys and it has gotten worse since my last post, I really dont want to fork out another 2500 and up for another rebuild which was done only a year and a half ago, is this possibly a computer problem? If i have to rebuild it again is it worth it, if so where should I go i live in Wisconsin and am not reall…

Been working this issue the last few months between work trips, finally home long enough to actually dive into it. Think I have it narrowed down, but would like bounce ideas off the brain collective. issue is if the truck is left longer than 12hrs you’ll have to cycle the lift pump for a bit to start first hit of the key. If not it’ll crank 5-10 seconds before start. Tried it all, on hills nose up/down and flat ground also. Truck has new fuel lines, new rubber seals at fittings, new injectors and seals, all fittings are tight with no leaks. the only “leak” I’ve noticed on the truck is the water drain on the factory fuel bowl, not much but eno…