2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Currently I have a FASS draw straw and a sump with a new Airdog DF 100 system. The new Airdog system is hooked up to a sump and currently the draw straw is plugged off at the fittings. I recently got a Carter for a back up pump. I would like to keep the sump for the Airdog and its filters and run a fuel line close to the VP44 with shut off valve. And then hook up the carter via the draw straw thru to the stock fuel filter on motor then to a shut off valve. With a shut off valve on each line, I would open that valve for the line I’m using at the time. Then install pressure gauge, then to VP44. And install a toggle switch for on/off switch to each pump. Questio…

My front drive shaft u-joints are toast. I really need to get them re-placed but I have never messed with the a double carden joint before. Any of you guys done this? if so what is the best method of attack?Thanks

I got my fuel issues fixed with my new AD100 and took off for the oil field and the transmission will not start out in 1st gear unless I put it low manually. :wtf:I cant take the chance to run it till I find out the problem, Anyone else experience this!!:banghead::banghead::banghead::cry::mad::mad:

Would there be any advantage to running a separate heavy ground cable from the PCM to the negative battery post? Would it help/ possibly save the PCM in the event of any future electronic abnormalities?Second; How about an external voltage regulator using a mechanical type regulator. I say mechanical type because if it starts acting up all you need do usually, is emery cloth the contact points. It is also has a feature of being able to adjust the voltage simply by adjusting the spring screw.Third, is it possible that the ECM Could avoid future damage if it did not have to run the lift pump and/or the AD Raptor relay? Asking because I would use an oil pressure switch that…

I know Gloshift aren't the best gauges out there, Probably not the most accurate and a budget alternative to better brands such as autometer or isspro. I need to get some gauges on soon, especially fuel pressure. I recently had a lift pump fail and don't want to be surprised like that again. I'll add a FP gauge first and boost and EGT soon to follow. Anyone here run the Gloshift gauges? How good/bad are they? I'm sure they'll do for a while until budget allows upgrades. I don't have any big mods, mainly stock truck with plans on bigger injectors and boost elbow this spring or summer to have a bit more pulling power to tow our 36' 5th wheel.

I know I am off topic but I have to ask. I was checking out the picture of Mikes trucks with the fire trucks.Mike could you get me the info on your tire and wheel combo. I have 35's on 16 and a half inch wheels and looking to downsize. Your rig looks good with what you are running.Luke

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

Ok time for another dumb question!Has anyone ever put lift pumps in parallel and run them.I was just wondering how they would perform as far as pressure and volume

The bottom of my dip stick looks like someone put a tack weld on the end. I haven’t seen any signs of overheating. Haven’t noticed it before, is there something going on?

Sorry it's so long, and it dose not start getting bad till the end. If you can see the tack you will see it surging up and down. http://jlweldingtx.com/JoesTruck/truck.html

I’m new to the forums and would appreciate any help. Just purchased a 2001 Ram 2500. It has a mild case of previous owner syndrome that I’m trying to correct. Most of the wiring issues have been pretty straightforward but there’s one in the engine bay that I need some advise on. It appears that the Org\Blk leaving the ECM has been tied directly to ground, effectively eliminating intake air heater relay 2. Anyone venture a guess on why someone would do this? here’s a pic of the wire. https://imgur.com/BtAmNmw

(Sorry for all the "basic 101 questions" from a "new" member. My fuel system fell apart when out of town, after 10 years of service, the FASS feel apart. And out of town mechanic did a very poor job of putting on the Air Dog 100. Old mechanic feels betrayed I think. He did all my work and very good by the way. Since 2005. But now is punishing me I think. Wants 4 hours at $120 and hour to look over work done by out of town mechanic. 4 hours I think I could put on an AIr Dog myself by just watching videos. So I'm on the "fast track" to learn about these things fabulous 5.9's myself. Thanks)... Going to start with installing a Fuel Pressure gauge. In…

Just wondering if anyone knows if any of the wiring harness needs to be replaced when switching from an auto PCM to a manual PCM?

Maybe some of you gents can help me now? Truck starting getting some bumpy rpms this afternoon. Drove it a bit and now it’s limping along with erratic idle. CEL on now. Codes I have: p0606 p0113 p0118 p0121 p0123 I read an article from here with someone with the same issues/codes and it was an ecm failure. I have the WT mods done, batts are clean & tight. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now so I thought id drop this topic. Any recommend ecm rebuilders?! Thoughts?

The turbo keeps blowing the boot clamp off the bottom of the tube going up to the intake horn. I've tried two different clamps and it still blows it off. How do I fix this?

I am in the process of doing fluid changes, the truck has 234k and i have no idea on previous maintenance. I haven't had the truck long. I have heard not to adust the bands or do it every fluid change. What would y'all recommend?

I read so many thing about that i got a p0341 and i think my trouble is the cam gear that read a differente things dose anyone have alraidy done this and cam i juste change the cam gear and the cover or i have to change the hole cam? Or its more simple to take the 98.5 wiring and swap it in my 01 please help me im pist off that i bought a truck like this

Went to a 2day biodiesel crash course last month getting my stuff together foe my processor. Trying to find methanol locally to help keep the cost down some.Anyone on this site making any? ;) Dave

I have a friend that's looking at an 01 dodge cummins and he's asking me some questions. Now he says it has a fuel leak on the vp44 behing the inspection cover. I think he means the cover that has the tamper proof screws holding it. Is this a concern or can he just change a gasket or seal and not worry about it? It also has a cracked exhaust manifold so I suppose that means it's been run too hot. Any concerns there?

on occasion, I have had a CEL, and the P 1693 code. I had the ECU codes checked, and it was the crank position sensor. The CEL randomly has appeared, and nothing has happened except in 2-5 starts, the CEL goes out. This happened again two days ago. Today, CEL came on again, and on the way home from work, the engine stuttered. just a miss of maybe 2 or 3 power cycles, but ran smooth with good power otherwise. I am unaware of how to get both P done, I've tried and only get one, with the P1693 code. How is this done?Am I finally having to pay attention to the crank position sensor? Any pointers?Thanks for the input.