2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

so the clutch went out back in jan. finnaly got it replaced two days ago....did the work myself:banghead: that sucked no concrette driveway.....all grass and gravel.....hopefully it will b fine....thanks to michael and the great info found here the bottle jack for spreading the frame rails came in very handy....now looking to swap my axel (dually) for a single rear ....then some power mods ....open for suggestions from anyone on mods

I’ve changed the cam sensor and the crank sensor but the code keeps coming up, I have also chased down all the grounds and cleaned them along with connectors.. I have 5v to the orange at every connector and or plug I’m at a loss for words right now

I am wondering if I can tweak something in my tuning to give me a little more power on hills. If I am running 55 up a decent grade it's like it's stuck between wanting to down shift and just not having the power to pick up the speed I want it too. Kinda hard to explain so I hope I make some sense. I know some bigger injectors and turbo would help more than anything.

UPS tracking says monday Dec 11. I ordered it last Thursday afternoon, Programed it, and Shipped out Tuesday. The Wait ........

For a while now, I have been debating if I should put a TC switch in. I know of the benefits I could get from it, but what about the negative?I want to do the switch because I want to maximize the fuel milage by reducing the fluid coupling of the automatic, and reducing heat.Anyone done it and what to do and not to do with it? At that rpm do you shut it off at? Also, could this be a good way to substitute for being able to use an exhaust brake?

So hear it is the best i can figure. I went out camping on 7-2 half way to our destination the truck started rolling coal like no tomorrow. I could fog out 4 lanes of traffic on a dangerous 6% grade, but if I could get on top of the RPM's it was fine. 1600 RPM's or better i made sure the overdrive was off, my T/C lock up switch was off. If I would just apply a very little amount of throttle and i mean less than 1/4" of movement it would start to haze then just roll black. All of the issues seamed to be with me hooked up to the trailer that weights in at 7600/lb. So I limped it home on 7-11. Then took the truck out for a drive well the issue is still there. Took it out to …

So yesterday my truck kept cutting out and having no throttle response. And no wait to start light. Does this mean ecm? No codes either. Already did w-t ground wire mod. Barely started after it died yesterday. Had to turn it over for 15-20 sec before it started back up to get me out of the middle of the road. Checking alternator today. If it is the ecm, can anyone recommend a good place? I’m looking to get one ASAP as it’s my only vehicle. I found this one from Ares Technologies, but i don’t think I know what it looks like because I thought I found it and then they gave me a part number for one 2 times as much.

my 2001 has been parked in a 45 degree shop for the last day and a half. i started it let in run for a couple min. i then drove it out side where its -11 let it run for a few more min. i then babied it down the road for a mile the next mile i gave it a little more throttle about the time it was going to switch into over drive it when from 2100 RPM and dropped down to around idle RPM then jumped up to about 1800 RPM... I then turned around went back home. I got back to shop put it in park and held it at 3000 then went to 3500 RPM ran fine. i then pulled on to road and put it to the floor ran great power was all there then drops to 1000 and back up to 1500 or so take my foo…

Hi guys Thanks for all the responses on my last post. It’s nice to find a page that has knowledge as well as courtesy. So I pulled my VP44 and found a broken rear bracket. Looks like I need to remove and replace/weld. My question is can I remove the vacuum pump with the injection pump removed or will the pump gear fall down. Looks like both run off the crank from what I can see. Also looks like a good time to rebuild that oily mess. Thanks and Merry Christmas Bill

My son has a 2002 Dodge 2500 Diesel has codes P0522 and P0336. The oil pressure switch, which is a single wire switch, has been replaced with a Cummins part and the PO336 code is troubling because there is no crank shaft sensor on a 2002. When you start the truck the instrument cluster shows no oil pressure and the tach is erratic for 8 seconds then drops off and the truck runs at a normal RPM but is in limp mode. ANY help would be appreciated.

I was wondering if someone can help me figure out my truck. Sometimes when I start it up and drive it, it drives like a brand new truck. Sometimes I start it up and drive it, it's a dog. I can't figure out what's causing the problem. Fuel pressure is always the same. 19psi running and 16psi driving. All other gauges are in normal range.

Im have a charging issue along with the transmission not having od. I checked the blue and green wires at the back of the alternator and the blue wire has no voltage. where does the voltage come from? does the pcm send 12v to the alternator or does the alternator send 12 volts to the pcm? or do both get their power from the pdc where the trans relay is?

Hello everybody I appreciate any advice. I just purchased a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9L Cummings, This truck only has 95,000 miles on it in great condition but it hasn’t been driven very much in the last five years I am going to change oil, oil filter, fuel filter anything else you recommend doing to it. Also it gave me a P0234 code Overboost. When I was on the freeway getting on it, cleared the code it came back a few days later on the freeway again recommendations thanks zev

Can I wire an airdog 150 into my factory harness?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had installed a rebuilt blackwater long block about 120K ago. at about 30K i had a leaking head gasket and installed new along with fire wire? not fire rings along with arp studs. I have easy edge and rv injectors and 4inch straight all in a 99 club cab dually 2 wheel drive,6 spd. My problem started after i had a friend drive a load for me, I have a pyro guage and light on guage is inop. so advised him not to run her over 1000 and check guage at night in the hills with a light etc. My guess is he ran it up and possibly caused my now blowby. What temp is safe? Could i have a head gasket failure causing the blowby? I understand weak rings or score does cause blowby but wo…

Just installed new injectors, Big Line Kit and Isspro fuel gauge.Fired her up yesterday & happily watched my fuel pressure climb to 12. After a short test drive and check over I noticed 2 small fuel leaks. One up top of filter where the needle valve is, was hoping this was just due to the Permatex thread sealer I used not being dry yet. The other is at the other end and seems to be coming from the push-lock fitting. Very small, couldn't see it but when I felt around the fitting my hand came away with diesel on it.I was going to take it to work today (50 mile round trip) and see what happens.Just fired her up and fuel pressure was only 4. I nervously watched for a…

So if you are familiar with the "whipping the dead horse" thread then you are up to speed on my truck. Recap; new fass UNO five oh- new vp 44- new rv 275- new heavy duty studs- new edge cys w/ juice- adjusted valves- new oil. So how high should my egt be at start up? And then when it's wArm?How accurate is the engine temp on edge? My fuel pressure rides at 16.5 and doesn't go below 15 at wot. Is that ok?My turbo has a hard pipe and I couldn't put elbo on from edge, is that an issue?the banjo bolt from edge wouldn't jive with my fass fitting at vp so should I get a fitting that works? As far as I can tell it just is a low fuel pressure warning?On the edge you can adjust bo…

My turbo is leaking air underneath at the connection after the elbow!!!! Any one know what the part # or if I can get this gasket at one of the national parts stores. Thanks in advance...

I have a 317k mile truck that only sometimes, runs poorly in the lower gears. 11k miles ago, the original trans gave up the ghost. A friend of mine built a trans with a triple disc Suncoast converter. Immediately the thing drove like crap. Stock truck, no mods, 2400rpm just to 2nd gear and BANG! shifted up into 3rd. And same into od. There's honestly no way to make this long story short. This last Thanksgiving, I spent it under the hood, doing the w-t ground mod and apps reset. So after it was done, I took it for a test run. Upon startup, idiot light indicated batts=no charge. Stopped at the store 2 miles down the road realizing I never set the 150 amp breaker. F…

So, I noticed that my fan clutch is engaged almost ALL the time.. well, sorta. I started the truck this morning (18*F), and the fan was roaring.. I don't know why, or if it's normal, but it was almost as if it were in full lockup. This isn't the first time, and it doesn't seem to be temperature-dependent. Is this normal?