2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Couple questions about a rear axle swap. I have a line on a 3.54 ratio complete assembly from a '98 2500. My truck ('99 3500 DRW) is fitted with a Dana 80.1) Does a '98 2500 diesel use a Dana 80?2) Are there differences between axles used in SRW and DRW applications?3) Are there any differences between the rear axles on a rear wheel only ABS truck & all wheel ABS truck (mine is the latter)?4) Are U joints the same between the two?5) Any challenges with attaching to the springs?I'm aware of the speedo cal issue. Anything else I'm not considering?Appreciate the help,Joe in St Louis

I'm digging into my rear brakes tomorrow. I had one side open the other day to replace the auto adjuster and I have a hunch they've been assemble wrong the last time. Does someone have a diagram of how it all goes together? Like which shoe is the front one, how the cable for the adjuster is routed etc.

My rear brakes (drum) have never really grabbed much. I recently replaced a leaking wheel cylinder and for a few brake applications they worked awesome. The rear abs actually activated. By now I'm back to the previous laziness. What can be wrong? It's a real pain having only front brakes at icey intersections.

So guys I havent been on here in long time. Did some searching through the forums for some info about the quickest way to replace that rear crank seal. I can see from the Service manual there are two ways of doing it, one is to remove the transmission (in my case a nv5600 and transfer case) all the way down to the bell housing and do it from there. The second method is to remove the bell housing completely (8 bolts) and then pull the crank shaft oil retainer. Im thinking I need to do the second method since Im in need of a new pan gasket as well. Little extra time involved since I would have to remove the starter and misc parts, but I think it would be worth it since…

Will a rear end out of a 04 dully fit a 01 dully?

My limited slip chatters a little bit in the turns. How much additive do I add? I changed the gear oil about 10K miles ago with Dino gear oil that had some friction modifier for limited slip. Chatter just started. Should I go 4 oz. and add more if needed? Thanks

Had an analysis run on my rear diff oil when I changed it. Everything seemed just fine from what I could tell when I had it apart. But my analysis seems to tell a different story. What are the clutches in the LSD made out of? reardiff.pdf

So I've been slowly redoing all my interior on my truck, and I've almost got everything fixed, except the driver side rear door. It has a new cable, and Ive cleaned and greased the ever loving hell out of the mechanisms, but the inside handle still won't open without help from the outside handle. It just literally needs maybe a 1/16th more of movement on the inside handle. The outside handle will open flawlessly (two fingers to open it). I have looked inside and saw the rods have threads on them, but idk how to adjust it, or if I even can? Does anyone know how to do this?

Hey all, Getting ready to replace my rear driveshaft U joints. I know the rearmost one is going bad because the caps were a little hard to spin when we had it out to do my clutch. I figured if Im doing one, I might as well do all three. I also have a slight shaking that happens right around 40 mph, and I'm hoping replacing the U joints will take care of it. I helped my dad with U joints before, but it was a while ago, so I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips/tricks to share. I know to mark the driveshaft and keep it in the same orientation. I'm also planning to rent a press from autozone. I know some will say to just use a hammer, but I'm a little worried about…

So I made my first haul with the new to me truck. Pulled over after 15 miles just to look over things and rear end was pretty warm could touch and thats about it. I left my temp gun at the shop so I dont know exactly what the temp was but I was pulling about 17k. Unloaded and got back to shop got heat gun and the pinion bearing area was 150 degrees the lowest part of third member was 138, thats pulling a 8k empty trailer. So I know it was hotter when loaded, lets just say 170, temp was a 60 degree day. Seems a little hot to me. What are you seeing rear end temps at? I replaced the pinion seal and dont know what I torqued it to but I know I looked it up.

Can anyone tell me if the rear end in an 01 1 ton requires friction modifier? Thanks

I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

heres the problem. while the truck is coasting there is a horrible vibration and loud hum coming from the rear end. the weird thing is any throttle at all makes it stop even the wait of my foot on the throttle. i have gotten out a few times and put my hand on the differential and its pretty hot. any ideas?

Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

So I blow the guts out of my limited slip and bears from all the metal. So in a nuts shell mass destruction is what I ended up with. Question I have is anyone running a arb air locker in there truck that was my 3rd limited slip that's failed so I am going to go for broke this time. I was told they are the tanks of lockers. I don't really know what to expect. I have this horrible feeling in going to be ripping of air line left and right.I am also getting on board air for locker and air bags anyone options on safe spots I should mount the tank.

Ok, I have an 2001 4x4 2500 eclb 192k power lok. BOM tag is gone and it has had a diff bearing change, one side is koyo other it timken. My rear end is stamped D702U. First off what is the 2U and I pulled it apart I have a pinion bearing going and found out that the spider gears were looking bad and the clutches for the lsd are toast. When I pulled the diff there was no shims on either side. does that sound correct at all?

Hey Guys, New weird problem. Its a 2001 3500 auto trans 5.9l 85,000 miles. The issue is when I make a very hard turn, both right or left, the rear end (or something in the back) seems to be extremely loose and starts to bounce and make an extremely loud banging noise that goes away after I slow down and straighten out. It really feels like the entire truck is going to rattle apart until I get it straight again. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Neal

I have a 2001 dodge quad 2500 4x4 auto with 34 in tires, question is I get lots of wheel spin with only 1 wheel pulling, but lock in 4 wheel drive the front end locks. Is the rear end open carrier when stock and what do yall recommend as a good locker for rear. Also thinking of going to a 410 gear from the stock 355 front and rear. Thanks for the help in advance

so acouple years ago i was traveling back from a wild weekend in riggins and hit a rock with my rear end. checked everything out underneath and it all looked ok till the next morning. there was a substantial puddle underneath. i replaced seal after seal where the driveline hooks up and to this day it continues to leak. so the question is, is there anyway i could have tweaked the rearend enough to make that seal keep blowing out and is there anyway to find out or measure if it did move?? any help thanks

What are my options for upgrading rear end to posi? 2001 4wd 2500