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2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.

  1. Please mention sensors, anything you know to check for. A complete list of things to check is what I'm after...... thank you.

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  2. Started by Tractorman,

    I thought I would share my experience with the clutch replacement job on my truck. I just did a clutch replacement on my truck after a good service life of 297,000 miles. However, in hindsight, I know now that I should have replaced the clutch much sooner, perhaps at around 225,000 or 250,000 miles. The primary failure was the pilot bearing which I had noticed recently because at times there was difficulty getting the transmission into gear with the engine running. Eventually, the needle bearings were spit out and the shifting problem went away. However, the failed pilot bearing damaged the bearing surface area on the input shaft to the transmission. I re…

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  3. Started by juspassinthrough,

    Ok guys still chasing my intermediate miss still may be injectors but want to ruel out alternator first ac noise mine is 0.24 has bosh on it bought rebuilt at napa it was worse so one would alternator cause miss and is 0.24 bad and will dens0 alternator fit my truck in place of bosh if it is hot miss at idle you can turn truck off start back up miss is gone getting 20 mph on fuel runs strong cleaned all grounds run fuel cleaner through it sometimes go a while no miss then it will miss i no lot of folks having same issue don't mind spending money just want to apply it in right place sorry I'm not very good at fancy writing. Maybe i need to convert it to a p pump.Thanks

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  4. Started by 015point9,

    What type of metals should I use or not use in the fuel system? Or does it even matter? Are there some metals that don't play well with fuel? Thinking about ball vales and fittings. Thanks

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  5. Started by Mopar1973Man,

    I know this a common issues for guys adding wheels and oversized tires but to show a quick clip of running down the pavement semi-flat ground at 66 MPH and the tach shows a prefect 2,000 RPM's. The EGT floats today about 600*F, and boost is about 3-5 PSI. Had to try mounting to the side window and see if the GoPro could do it. I found out the LED lighting screws with the frame rate with the flashing displays which its not actually doing.

  6. Started by Scottfunk,

    Ok I'm really hoping I am not going to be in the market for an injection pump. Recently my truck started cutting out under moderate to heavy acceleration. Cruising at about 30% load on my quadzilla readout it seemed ok but if I got into it, it would run ok for a few seconds and slowly die down to 38%. Just before it quit running it would drop slowly until it got to about 10%. I stopped at a store and when I came out it wouldn't start. All through this the reading from the tps matched the reading on the quadzilla so I don't think it's dead pedal. After having it towed home and doing some digging I find I'm not getting fuel at the injectors. I have power at the vp plug, and…

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  7. Started by mopar440cu,

    Does anyone know how to flush out the heater exchange? I have pulled out all the tranny lines so I could replace them with the cooler, but cant find out any info on how to flush the heater exchange. I know it has a check valve, but thats it. LOL Thanks again fro the help!! /

  8. Started by Reaper22,

    Hey guys, Last night I headed home from a buddies house and the turbo (hx35) started making noise whenever I got above 15ish psi. It wasn’t gradual, truck was perfect when I got out and made noise when I got back in. I’ve never heard an exhaust leak on a Cummins or any turbo vehicle but it’s almost like the turbo itself is leaking. At first I thought it was something hitting the turbine or compressor at low rpm but when you get the boost up it sounds more like a leak. Looking around I see no soot on anything under the hood. However, I’m still able to build 36psi which is the max I could before. No extra lag or smoke, no loss in performance that I’d expect from a leak. T…

  9. Started by 20016spd,

    I have a problem with my 01. First it started showing it was over heating (which it wasn’t), then I left to go pick up a load of calves and the truck started to sputter, and then died and wouldn’t start. Changed the Ecm and I can start it now. But the problem I’m having now is the truck will run real rough and after a few seconds after starting but any load it acts like it’s not getting fuel. The p0118 and p1693 codes are still there. And a few others come up now and then. Any ideas as this truck is my source of income

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  10. I have a 99 2500 with automatic Transmission that was just rebuilt and a new two disc tc. The first time I drove it after the rebuilt the transmission shifts quickly from 2nd to 3rd to 4th(O/D). It doesn’t happen when your foot is really in it but when you accelerate normally it jumps up and the engine bogs down. The transmission guy that worked on the truck told me it was an electrical issue on the APPS sensor but I want to get some other suggestions before throwing money at the wrong problem. Also the APPS sensor is a few months old

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  11. Started by Towrigdually,

    Fuel filter change is coming up, have the fass routed into the factory canister so I can keep the WIF light. can I use the canister without the filter since I already have the fass for filters? Anyone ever tried it?

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  12. Grid Heater Bypass Simplified The method described below is a simplified way of turning the grid heaters on and off when starting the engine and reducing the electrical load on the alternator without setting a P0380/P0382 code. The bypass solenoid is a 300amp rated Ford type starter solenoid. When both grid heaters are on there is about 180amp draw and after start up the draw is reduced to 90 amps so the bypass relay has a 50% plus overload safety factor. Suggested Parts List 1 Standard Motor Parts starter solenoid SS-598 (bypass solenoid) 1 automotive on/off switch DC rated (your choice of style) 1 ATC fuse holder or fuse bloc…

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  13. Started by joecool911,

    Michael seems to be such a great resource for cummins trucks that I just had to join this forum. Going to try the 2 cycle oil in fuel tank tomorrow. I'm also looking to install a new fuel pump. Stock lift pump now on 2001.5 and 161,000 miles. Lift pump has been changed every couple years, so precious owner claims.

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  14. Started by Marc_4x4,

    I got my 01 truck swap buy the other custumer and he put a 98.5 in it that cause the truck runing in limp mode because off the différence in the tone ring 98.5 to 00 run cam and crank and 01 to 02 just have cam sensor. Now my truck is a 01 with auto transmission can i put a 01 manuel block with all my stuff on its like vp44 and the turbo

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  15. Started by 99mystic,

    Ok so i was in an accident about 4 months ago and the truck is being totaled by other partys insurance. Ive only had it a year and i havent made a big dent in the loan so after its paid off i wont have much left to play with so i am gona be looking for a new truck. I liked having the 6spd. I dont want to go to low on year. Wana avoid the 53 block and KDP problem. I had great mpg on my truck so wana stick with same options. I am willing to hear some advise and opinions. My question is is a 5 spd better than the 6spd. I know that the 6 spd have the Dana 80. Anyways what shall i get?? Im currently thinking about this one. http://www.canyonstateauto.com/inventory/view/56186…

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  16. My edge mph stays 20 to 70 mph above my actual mph so when i am traveling at 65 it thinks i am going 150 or so. i have to leave my edge alert at 200 to keep it from alarming nonstop. when i am traveling between 60 and 70 mph it shuts down like i am governing it out. once it gets below 60 it drives perfect. i tried unplugging the edge and it couldnt even get to highway speeds. had to plug it back in just to get home. will get codes read tomorrow as the only one the dash show in 1693 which we all know is a companion code. any ideas?

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  17. Alright guys i just purchased a new to me truck and are having some problems. 1999 dodge 3500 4x4 cummins 174k miles in last 6 months it has had newInjection pump, steering gear box, leveling kit, shocks, control arms, trac bar, trans within last 25000 miles brand new tirez, Ive done a good amount of reading here and on cummins forum. Any help to get me steered in the right direction will be greatly appreciated. Bought truck 12/31/12 and have put around 80 miles on it 60 of which were trip home!Truck had injection pump replaced 25000 miles agoI will start with my ride home after purchase....-Truck ran strong up until 21-2200 rpm then dead pedal. Let off then re-accelerat…

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  18. Started by Prestin24v,

    So my engine harness has 3 broke connectors and can’t find all the pigtails need. My question is my trucks a 2001 but I have a 1999 engine harness as well. Can i just the connectors I need and tap them into the 2001 harness? Or what be a better way than buying a new harness lol.

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  19. I slid my fuel plate full forward and when my truck shifts into over drive I'm getting shutter the tranny has only got bout 40k on a rebuild it only does it if your running the rpm 2k or above am I just over powering the tc It's not a billit tc

  20. Started by DodgeRam2002,

    3500 02 cummins drw hey guys i just took off my drain plug for my rear diff after driving about 3 weeks after changing the oil right after i purchased it, when i took the plug out a bunch of pressure released and went pooof. when i inspected the cap it had a coating of what looked like a gray silicone but it was obviously metal. ive never seen anything like it, no chunks or long bits just what looked like drywall mud. would this be normal? i just got the truck and when i first serviced the rear there was little no no metal. i put75-140 in the rear. i dont know if this would make a difference but i ended up having to repair the front end diff as it was pus…