2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Fellas, what do you think a 5600 6 spd out of an 01 4X4 would be worth for parts? Supposedley the complete transmission minus the 1 3/8 shaft. Story i'm getting is they parted the tranny so they could get the big shaft vs the small one they currently had. Only issue I have with that story is going from the 1 1/4 to the 1 3/8, wouldn't everything else be different inside?
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I drove the ol Dodge some today, cause it hasn't gotten driven much lately. Maybe 20 mins on back roads. I may have done a little "fun" driving but not much. I am not hard on it at all. Anyway I am pulling back into the driveway and I catch a wif of hot break. Both of the front breaks are hot enough I can feel heat coming from um. I replaced rotors, pads, and calipers about 10,000 miles ago. It didn't pull left or right while stopping. I think I'll drive it around again tmw and see what it does. But what do ya think it might be? Master cylinder? Flexible break lines? Or just because it sat for a little while??
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I have been experiencing a rear axle noise when driving. The noise occurs only under acceleration (light or heavy). It is a steady whine that changes in pitch with vehicle speed. The noise has become more prominent over the last several months. I disconnected the driveshaft and I can move the pinion shaft by hand up and down and side to side a small distance. My understanding is that there should be no free play here. I also removed the differential cover and drained the oil. There was the normal amount of fine filings on the magnet, but there were no chunks or pieces of metal in the bottom of the housing - in fact, it was very clean for the miles (386,0…
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- 3 followers
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Hello, Curious if anyone has done this FASS 150 upgrade, and if so, your results/comments please. Thanks
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So I'm not entirely sure if this is even an issue or not but it is something I've noticed. It first came to my attention after installing the high idle mod, although I can't say for certain that's what caused it, or if that's when it started. Anyways, my issue is that I no longer get a 'prime' when turning the key and waiting for the WTS light to go out. Before I would turn the key, hear the pump prime for about 5 seconds, or just long enough to build to about 15-17psi and then cut off, shortly after the WTS light would extinguish and I'd fire her up. I'm not sure if it's just getting colder outside so its harder to prime or what. I did bump it and it ran through the…
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Have you ever had the throttle linkage where the APPS is connected to, ever get stuck (frozen) in -4° weather? Mine did last night at my friend's house. His house is 3 miles away from mine. I started out in 2nd gear and couldn't push the pedal down because the linkage was stuck at idle. But halfway between his house and home I was able to get it to move a little which brought me up to 2,300 rpm, so I shifted into 3rd gear and drove home at that rpm. When I got it in my shop within a couple minutes it thawed out and was normal again. I wonder if it did it because my pickup doesn't have the plastic APPS cover on it? I have a brand new T…
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- 4 followers
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It's set at 85. Was going to set cruise at 90 pedal is completely dead. It will accelerate passed 85 then pedal dies I do have my seatbelt on.
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Hello All, Sorry for the story, but I am confused. After reading all the articles on here with AC Noise Issues/Excessive alternator load, I began disconnecting my grid heaters (at the battery) during the warmer months (40F+). Over the holidays, I took a trip to the mountains for some time in the snow so I hooked back up the grids and first start up the check engine light kicked on. The engine was idling fine, but i noticed the voltage gauge took a long time to recover from the initial grid usage and every trigger (2 times) before I took it down the road to just check things out. At the gas station (5 miles away), I scanned the truck…
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A month ago I started having surging and idling problems. I checked all the usual, fuel filters, pressure and everything in check. At hwy speed you can feel it surging in fact at all speeds of course at over 2500 rpm not so much. If you set the cruise control it goes away. I can watch my throttle on my adrenaline and its fluctuating up and down when using accelerator. At idle at a stop it will go as low as 500 rpm and Ive watched it climb as high as 1800 rpm. The apps was about a year old so I thought that had to be it.Put a new one in and roll along here for a bout 100 plus miles and the new apps starts doing the same thing again. No codes except the grid heaters which i…
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- 2 followers
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Need some help. I have to replace the camshaft/lifter inspection cover on the driver side of the engine. After removing the starter and the fuel filter bowl and lift pump bracket It looks like I am going to have to remove the injector pump to accomplish this. Does the Injector pump have to come off to remove this cover.
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Had DAP rebuild some injectors with 150 nozzles. I got the injectors in a trade that were supposed to be 200's. The numbers on the nozzle are DSLA 150 P 755, and a 77103 with 939 below. It's not a big deal, I was just curious if these were actually 200s. The notes said all 6 old nozzles were leaking anyway.
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Newby here again. This site is awesome,thanks again guys!:thumb1:I have a buddy that is trying to sell a 12v with about 175,000 miles on it, and with all the trouble I seem to be having with my 24v he mentioned that maybe I should just swap them out. How big of a project would this be?Is it even a smart move? I would really like to get the 24v going just for the education but I really need to get this truck on the road soon. I have to let go of my Toyota soon and need this truck running before I can do that.
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Alright so I've got this 24v project im working on - don't have any exp on them and I heard this is the spot to go... Trucks got p1689 flashing, p0113 codes. Previous owner said it "wouldnt go above 20km/h". I havent tested that theory because I suspected the lift pump. I have a FASS100gph & set of glowshift gauges going in this thing shortly but I wanted to confirm the source of these codes before i mess with them. I also am having, what I believe to be the sending unit act up on me. Fuel gauge at E, but when I disconnect / reconnect connection at top of sending unit it jumps up to half then slowly climbs down. Tested the gauges on the dash, and fuel gaug…
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How to solve the codes and the idling problem.
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How long can a New VP44 Be Stored without damage to internals??? I have a H.O Bluechip VP44 i didn't put 1,000 miles on, took it off and, plugged up ports after filling with a mixture of diesel and 2-stroke, stored it in box in my shop and its been there for bout 4-yrs maybe 5.... i had issues and thought it was VP. Ended up buying another Stock VP and it wasn't the issue after all RBURKS
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Does anybody have opinions on Lucas 75w-140 synthetic gear oil?
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- 4 followers
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I'm hooking up a resistor to my IAT for the MPG mod. I'm going to use a DPDT switch. One position to the IAT for cold mornings, the other position to the resistor. The only IAT extension cord anyone has heard of is for a gasser. Are the plugs the same? Anyone know of where to get one for a diesel?
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I finally got my truck to start and drove it last night after a year of sitting since last August I've already replaced the vp44,intank pump, fuel filler, tps and tonight went to start it started fine had no throttle and fuel level gauge. I had only had one code and it was a 122 code. these are all the codes that randomly appeared. I'm extremely mad it was literally doing fine last night and over whellemed with all these if someone could please help me out it wound be appreciated P 0500 @pull fuse 4 and 7 P 0463 @ high voltage to fuel pump P 1693 @ Ecu 121 Excelerator position sensor APPs voltage to low 1693 P 0380 @ Intake air …
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P1765 Transmission relay open or shorted. So I remember that the Previous owner told me about a Torque converter Lock-up switch. He said that you could use it to lock the converter in second gear while pulling a grade. So I assume that the Jumper wire has something to do with that? Mopar1973man told me about a Mystery switch that someone did, and used an old High Beam floor switch but I can't find that article. If I'm going to have to suffer the effects of the jumper then I should reap the benefits. If someone has a link to the rewire please share it with me. Thanks Michael
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Hello, I am new to this forum. I have 2 Cummins, a Hemi Magnum, a CR-V, and a Town & Country, AND a 1967 Barracuda Convertible. It is a work in progress right now, but hope to have it running soon. I also have a 1991 Harley Springer with a sidecar and a Can-Am Spyder. I am a 34 year veteran of the military that came out missing my right leg at the hip. I still work on my MOPARS, but not as fast as before. I have a 2002 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins, 218,000 miles, that has decided it doesn't want to run until I have gone about a mile. I have let it idle for about an hour in neutral to warm up, no luck on the problem. I have installed a FAS pump and fi…
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