2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?

I am going to adjust valves on my '02 and so far have the valve cover off, so far so good. Now I see that I need to move the engine to TDC which is noted on the pump gear housing. HELP...is this pump gear (with the indicator line) under the Crankcase Breather??? I have the hose off and can't seem to get the Crankcase Breather off if that's where the gear is located.Great pictures and help on the link here for adjusting valves but the part about the gear with the TDC mark was not shown. I have the Dodge Shop Manual on CD and it shows the breather as coming off....how do I get it off and if I do get it off, how do I get it back on securely? I hate to start prying on st…

Somehow I managed to break the black plastic bit that the clips on the connector engage to hold in place, and so my transmission is hanging on by nothing more than simple friction. I know I, going to have to drop the valve body to replace it, my question is this: where the heck do I get the connector?

I remember someone here who had one of these and some seemed interested in them. Then I stumbled on the this today if anyone is interested. https://www.hoeslidiesel.com/collections/1998-5-2002-cummins-24-valve/products/cast-aluminum-valve-cover

Does anyone have experience painting the valve cover while it is still on the truck? I took my truck to the car was today and degreased the engine compartment. It looks great except that the pressure blew all the paint of of the valve cover! I believe it is aluminum so there really shouldn't be any concern with rust correct? I would like to paint it red like I have seen a few. Any ideas?

ANYONE KNOW THE TORQUE SPEC FOR THE VALVE COVER BOLTS ON 2nd GEN 24 VALVETHANKS!!

Aright, I'm trying to diagnose if its my valve cover gasket thats leaking. It may even be an old leak, too. I have some oil staining if you would call it that, that is at the rear. It can only come from the valve cover as it is to high for anything else. I have torqued the cover down and then retorqued after so long. I will double check again to see if it is still indeed leaking.Although, I called O'reilly's, and they sell the gasket for $126! WHHAAATTT!That is out of this world! Where could I get one cheaper?

Hey guys I have a road trip planned tonight. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Long story short I was driving home pulled into the driveway noticed that I was leaking oil it is all over the side of my truck underneath the hood and all over the engine bay. I turned on the truck back on with the hood open to see where the leak was coming from and it looked like it was coming out of the valve cover gasket. Have you guys ever lost a gallon or so of oil from this gasket in less than a 1/4 mile? Or do I have a bigger problem? I have attached a picture below for reference The video might help. Btw the sound is totally new with this issue A018…

So after I did my head gasket and installed ARP studs I have a valve cover leak on the back of the head. I've heard about having to clearance the valve cover for the studs but I can't see where it is hitting. Anyone done this before? I bottom tapped the holes so I didn't think it was an issue

What is the procedure for tightening the valve cover bolts?

Just a quick question guys, can the valves be too tight, or tighten up over time?.I went to chck my lash and went through in order, didnt find any loose, but all were on the tight side, the feeler gauge barely fit. I expected to find loose ones after 170k.Thanks for any input.

I checked and set valve lash on my 2001 Dodge Cummins. I went .010” on intake valves 1-2-4 and .020” on exhaust valves 1-3-5 on the compression stroke TDC, and .010” on intake valves 3-5-6 and .020” on exhaust valves 2-4-6 on the exhaust stroke TDC, but I noticed that intake valve #5 was slightly loose on the compression stroke, .003” and intake valve #2 was slightly loose on the exhaust stroke, .003”. Shouldn’t these be tight? Or is there a slight overlap while at TDC compression/exhaust that would cause these to be loose? Or could it be push rods or some other wear. The truck starts and runs good. Thanks!

I've just learned that valve lash that is done wrong or in a hurry and I didn't verify my measurements can have impacts on performance, idling, and lope. Just a few days ago I figured I would just verify the lash and cold engine I was having issues getting feeler gauge to pass on a few cylinders. I ran the head again and verified all my measurements after torquing the lock nuts. Now after a few days my lope at idle is gone. Performance has improved slightly and even the MPG is up slightly. So I've got to admit this was my bad but I wanted to share my mistake to hopefully help other spot weird performance issues and check the basic things that might cause issue. …

I did my valve lash yesterday while doing an oil change. This is the second time doing the procedure. I put the engine at TDC and did my adjustments, adjusting all the valves that were loose and that I could jiggle. I put the engine at BDC and started on the next set. While doing these I looked up the procedure on here to find out what the torque setting was for the jamb nuts and I noticed that one of the valves was loose (I could jiggle it) that wasn't on the list of valves to adjust while at BDC. I finished up adjusting the valves that should of been adjusted and rotated the engine back to TDC and checked the valves and there was one that was loose that shouldn't b…

The following is not meant to create an argument just to simply explain my personal results and what I honk is right when doing a valve lash job on my truck. So everyone here has told me and untold amounts of other members here to do valves on a cold engine. Wrong. Valve lash must be done on a warm engine to get good results. The reason behind this is simple. When the tappets get hot they expand and when they get cold they contract. So if you adjust your valves while cold when you operate your truck the valves are going to expand and not allow proper intake and exhaust valve operation. I personally tried to complete an adjustment 2 times on a cold engine and both ti…

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

Can the valve seals be replace without removing the head from the truck? Remove rocker arms and rotate engine to TDC for each cylinder and do them one at a time?

On some start ups it will blow some white/blue haze (smells like oil) smoke for a few seconds as the EGT rises. Also, if I sit and idle for extended periods, like 5min, when i continue driving it will blow the same color smoke as soon as my egt rises above 500-600. Once it burns the oil out, it doesn't come back, and the truck runs the same smoking or not. The truck runs fine, and uses some oil, but not much... Mabe a quart every 2500 miles at the most. i haven't actually measured it. I am wondering if I am getting excessive oil going down my exhaust valves, and coating the exhaust... either from worn guides or worn seals. I am going to have the rock…

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to…

Half way through replacing my valve stem seals. Let me know if anyone wants me to grab pics or wants any info.