2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Looking for some fittings today on internet... 2 questions... 1. Any source for a 1/2 inch, 90 degree push lock fitting? Can't seem to find one. (2 wheel drive with a sump is getting pretty low to ground, try to keep line up much as possible) 2. Very many people use hose clamps on your push lock fittings? http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-2-Fuel-Line-Fuel-Pressure-T-Fitting-Adapter.aspx
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Just installed dragon flow 275hp injectors and custom built turbo. Truck runs the same! I tried to run a quad adr last summer did the same thing! no more power no smoke nothing. No codes either. A smarty will make some more power and little smoke before it builds boost. Anyone have any idea what my issue is?! I have owned this truck for 2 years and put 15k miles on it its got 136 now. It runs drives and never skips a beat BUT will not make any more power is this thing cursed or something?
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I got a smoking deal on a used smarty for my 98. The guy was selling it for his buddy and wasnt sure if it was vin locked or not but didnt think it was. Last time he tried to download it the truck wouldnt take it so he put it back in the case and left it alone. His buddy says he can try to get a few bucks for it and I bit. He sient me pics and from them it did not look vin locked. I got it today and it would not finish downloaded, it would start at 0% and then time out communication or something. After this it my truck would not start so I was worried I just fried my ecm. I ended up unhooking my battery cables and then running the download, it worked but then it was just …
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My fuel filter bowl drain has a constant drip leak out of the drain valve. I have monkeyed with it but can't get it to stop. It was doing about one drip per second but now I have it down to about one drip every 10 seconds. It is still leaking straight on to the engine mount and there is a fuel sheen on everything on that side of the block, and the truck stinks like a diesel leak.Is this common at all? It seems that just the plastic valve for emptying the fuel bowl is what is leaking, or rather, won't close back up completely. Can I buy a new plastic valve or anything to fix this? Some O-ring in there to replace?Thanks in advance
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First time poster long time listener. Last night I had a buddy flash my 2002 ram 3500 6speed 4x4 with his smarty to enable the high idle. The truck hasn't ran since last night, so this morning I tried what MoparMan said with the 100k ohm resistor and the intake air temp and the idle should ramp up within upto 5 minutes to make sure the feature is enabled. I sat and didn't touch anything and waited for it to do its magic. After 10 minutes of waiting it hasn't done anything. Since a few days ago the wait to start light works before starting but both heating elements wont run simultaneously based of watching the volt meter. When I hooked up the resistor the wait to start lig…
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So I'm on to the next upgrade in the Pearl. I want to upgrade the turbo and the injectors. As of current I have the stock turbo and the stock injectors in er. I'm looking to get more ponies to the ground, better take off, better mpg's, and just better overall performance. I have upgraded to an Air Dog II 165 already, so my VP is getting plenty of that sweet nectar it loves so much. So let's hear some of your combos and how they work for you please! Thanks, Mick
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Can some one give me the torque spec for the vp44 side? I think it's 28ft pounds on the injector side and 89 inch pounds for the injector hold down. Crows foot pretty much mandatory for putting in new injectors and getting the right torque spec?
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So I put that airdog 150 on my truck, and , one morning it would not start, zero fuel pressure from the gauge. After troubleshooting the obvious suspects, I took a rubber mallet and started tapping on the air dog pump itself. The air dog came to life and the truck started as normal and ran great the rest of the day. Next few days same thing, I always had to take rubber mallet while somebody else was turning over the truck and it would finally start. So I called air dong and told him I have a bad pump, and they said take the gears out the side and soak them in motor all overnight. I have not done that yet? Is it a waste of time or has anyone else had this problem before?
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Hi there,,,I'm a newbie,retired GM technician and frustrated Dodge lover. Recently I did the "easy" conversion from auto 47RE to a brand new NV4500 with upgraded Southbend clutch. My truck is a 2002 2500 4X4 SRW 24V with 110K miles,FASS150,RV275 injectors,Fleece Cheetah turbo,Banks air and intake. The conversion went relatively smooth besides some minor electrical glitches. I used all new hard parts along with a new PCM for a manual truck with my VIN programmed to it and Smarty programmed the ECM. It might be relevant to say that I had replaced my APPS unit ($Mopar) several months prior to doing the conversion because of failure codes,no pedal issues. Now,,,,,The conversi…
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Hello all, I'm new to this forum and have already found a wealth of information. I have an Air Dog FP-100 on my '01 Dodge Ram 2500 QC with the standard power Cummins. It has just failed the Air Dog pump for the 3rd time, this time costing me a new fuel injection pump. The gearotor/motor assembly was just installed in Sept. I put in the new fuel injection pump and everything tested fine. I knew the Air Dog was not putting out as much pressure as I would like, so before I ran the truck further than a couple miles, I installed a 1/4" washer that I drilled out to 3/8" ID and then shaved the OD to fit under the return to tank fitting in the Air Dog base. I drove the tru…
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Please feel free to add or correct this list.Put the cam in the freezer over nite.First with the key out, turn windshield wiper on slow speed. Turn the key on so the wipers start moving, turn the key off when the wipers are full up. This will help you get the pushrods from 5 and 6 out without hitting the wiper arms. Remove the plastic cowl and the 2 rubber grimits.Disconnect batterys if you want (i dont)Remove the valve cover. 10mmI like to get small plastic bags with zip ties mark all the bags 1,2,3,4,5,6 ,start in front remove the rockers, 14mm nut on the pushrods.10mm on the rockers.Some like to remove the side cover to see the dowl rods into the tappetsTap the wood do…
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Last night i install a fuel psi sending unit in my vp44 at the check valve, i remove it from the vp and installed a banjo bolt then the psi snubber, then the sending unit. When i went to start it, i bleed air at sending unit to get it to start, then back up parked until the morning to finish the inside stuff then. Once i was finish it would not start. bleed again, but did'nt get any fuel. remove banjo at back of filter and i did the crank-no-start thing for the pump to start and it was but nothing coming out of the banjo at all. Was on a slope driveway and I had 1/4 tank of fuel, went and got 5 more gallons, still nothing. I then went and fired up the air compressor to pu…
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My alternator output is less when warm out than when cold. Now it’s putting out 14.3 on average. When it’s hot it’s more like 13.7. Is this an indication of trouble ahead?
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First set of new injectors from dap, had to send back for warranty, put 2nd set in then had to do the same thing again. With this being the 3rd set am I just having really bad luck with injectors or is something else causing it? I keep getting a knock/ping and sounds like a bad miss if u (more prominently)coast and very lightly tap or ride the throttle and just runs rough/ just not how it should. Runs rough and knocks when normal driving the same just more so as stated above. Why do I keep getting this knock etc? Is the vp44 causing this to go down stream? Fuel psi is consistently 16psi, no codes or check engine light (doesn't mean awhole lot but..) This …
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Well I finally gone in done it... I yanked out the factory batteries and replaced them with a set of WalMart Batteries. I was shocked I to find that the Group 27 batteries where only $89 bucks a piece and they are 850 CCA batteries. I was smart and brought my tools along and changed them right in the parking lots and wheeled the tired stock batteries in the store and collected my $18 bucks worth of core charge. I got to admit the charging voltage is a bit lower and the starter seems to spin much easier. But after getting nearly 10 years from the stock batteries it was time to retire them.
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I want to go to 3rd gen brakes on my truck. I've gotten pretty good at rebuild calipers. Wondering about getting some used calipers for the price of core charge.
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What's the difference between a truck vp and a midrange vp? can we use the midrange pump on our trucks??:confused:
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I have a fass 165 gph that I've had on my truck since 2014. Lately every other time I start my truck I have no fuel pressure and it stumbles. I replace the relay in the wiring harness but it does it again. What's weird is that the fuse isn't blowing but the relay is. Relays aren't cheap I need to figure this one out. Any ideas?
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@Dynamic John, I have the BD flexplate, do I need to reuse the factory steel washer? The directions I got say discard, but BDs new instructions on their website say reuse? Is that washer just used for load distribution? Anyone have any input of that steel washer?
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