2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi guys, got the new grid heater battery jumper wire set I had ordered. I put it on, tried it and fried it in 5 seconds- bye bye $40. Anyway, I just followed the troubleshooting instructions here after this disaster: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm I have .1 or 0 Ohms (depending on the multimeter setting) across the heater grid terminals as stated in the 2002 instructions. But it seems like you wouldn't want 0 if going from the grid terminals to ground as that would in indicate a direct short to ground. If I jump the grid straight to the battery its like a welder. Anyone have any issues with this before? I took the intake horn…

Please feel free to add or correct this list.Put the cam in the freezer over nite.First with the key out, turn windshield wiper on slow speed. Turn the key on so the wipers start moving, turn the key off when the wipers are full up. This will help you get the pushrods from 5 and 6 out without hitting the wiper arms. Remove the plastic cowl and the 2 rubber grimits.Disconnect batterys if you want (i dont)Remove the valve cover. 10mmI like to get small plastic bags with zip ties mark all the bags 1,2,3,4,5,6 ,start in front remove the rockers, 14mm nut on the pushrods.10mm on the rockers.Some like to remove the side cover to see the dowl rods into the tappetsTap the wood do…

I have a fuel boss mechanical pump and I had an issue with some debris being stuck in the bypass valve, causing the fuel pressure to plummit. I cleaned it out and put it back together and everything seemed to be as normal around 18psi. Though, today when I went for a drive the fuel pressure jumped up to 45-50psi. Thinking the valve was stuck closed I opened it up to find all was normal. I know I've installed the valve in the correct orientation as well :/. I'm at a loss at this point, can't figure out why the pressure is so high! Any ideas? I drove for about 10 miles, how much harm could this have caused at 45psi? Thanks

Hey folks, It seems I’ve gotten myself into a situation. About 2 weeks ago my alternator started going out. It would charge fine for a while then drop voltage to 12.3-12.4 and sometimes completely off to around 11v. Monitoring with the gauge on my edge. When charging it would bounce from 13-14v. This started when I was about 300 miles from home. I limped the truck home without replacing it and noticed that on the back of the alternator the clip which secured the plug had broken and would not click and secure. Figured this was my problem and engineered a zip tie fix but didn’t drive the truck again until yesterday. On that drive the truck started giving me the 30 sec…

Hi all, My NV4500's pto covers are leaking fluid so I'm planning to pull them and reseal them. I'm looking for suggestions on what type of rtv to use and how best to clean out the case of the trans while I have them off? Also, any opinions on wether or not a filter is worth the money? They kits are $100 from quad, seems like a good idea but I'm not sure if it's a gimmick or not? Also I've heard there should be a magnet somewhere in the case and that I need to clean it off? Where is that? Should I add anymore magnets? What type? Sorry for all the questions, just want to be prepared. Thanks!

Hey guys, I figured I'd post to see what you all thought. At completely stock power or with the edge comp all the way up, stock injectors and turbo or aftermarket, it doesn't matter, the truck will die after a hard pull if you take your foot off the pedal. It won't drop back to idle like it should. If you keep your foot on the pedal just a little bit for a couple seconds, it recovers and all is well. It sounds like it's running out of fuel. The airdog never drops below 12psi. The vp has about 3000k on it. It did it with the old vp too. I'd like to understand why if possible. Thanks.

Hey guys, someone posted this on the cummins forum and I wanted to let ya'll know about it too if you hadnt already seen it there. I know Mike has the original scangauge and I believe this works the same way but its cheaper. I was close to ordering a scangauge but went ahead and got one of these. They are on sale through Sunday, I havnt got mine yet but will let ya know how it works (if it works on these Jap cars) when I get it. http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/index.htm

Is their an article on how to install a draw straw tube, I am deleting the in basket straw and installing it out side the basket, I know @Mopar1973Man had some post for one but cant seem to find anything

What do you guys know about the 100 or 150 hp injectors, I want to hear the good, bad or indifferent opinions on them. Cost, and how well they perform. I'm looking for more power in my truck, this 7000 lb tavel trailer is really hard to pull up hills especially when some idiot decides to drive 10 mph under the speed lmit right in front of me and I loose all my momentium and rpm's.

I have a thread on another forum, and m1973m's posts there, led me 'here'.Basically, it boils down to this:On Key-on, I bump the starter. With a fuel pressure gauge on the system, the lift pump (prev. owner replaced the lift pump (with what appears to be an Airtex E7153 or replica), as well as added a [crap] Mr. Gasket #12D inline pump (rated at 5-7psi, 35gph) back by the tank. The LP kicks on, and the pressure slowly climbs from zero - ~19psi. Once the LP kicks off, the pressure immediately falls to ~5-6psi. If I sit anw watch it for a few seconds, it'll bleed off to zero PSI.If I repeat, and as soon as it hits 19psi on prime, if I start it, it will fall to zero in a…

Hello. My truck died suddenly and now it's only cranking. Got a P1688 code and looks like vp44 computer is toasted. I found a company which repairs vp44 psgs. Now I'm wondering do I have to cut the wires if I remove psg from top of the vp or can I take the solenoid apart from the distributor end? Thanks and Greetings from Finland!

Truck died and will not start. Checked fuel pressure, 10 psi. Decided to change fuel pump to Airdog FRRP-100. Now with Airdog FRRP-100 pressure is at 10 psi (which I believe is low for priming pressure) with Airdog pressure screw all the way increase via screw. Cracked VP44 return line banjo bleed than tried to bleed at 1,3,5 but pressure was low very little flow. What would cause the pressure to be so low? There seems to be air still in the lines and can't seem to get it out- think be cause the pressure is so low. I did change the VP44 out in December & fuel pump (Airtek) ~year ago any suggestions?

Ok I can't seem to figure out what the noise my engine makes. I just installed my edge comp box yesterday (Not wire tapped) to make sure everything was going to work properly when I do decide to tap the pump. Now when the engine is down in the lower rpms and i stab the throttle I get a slight loss of power, and a terrible "grunting" sound. To me it sounds like the timing is WAY off from what is should be, But as soon as I build a couple pounds of boost the horrible noise goes away and the power comes on instantly. I have no codes, smarty is set to stock, FP is 15wot 19idling. IP is 2 1/2 months old. I thought I had read somewhere that if the MAP sensor voltage is way low…

I have a 2001 Ram 2500 Cummins 4 by 4 automatic and I cannot get my fuel pump to a cycle on relays good fuel pump is new I can run a hot wire to it and it runs but the truck will not start is there a fuel pump shut off switch somewhere I still annoyed or something that I should check and where would it be located

Just curious if anyone has experienced this before. I recently installed a Adrenaline with iQuad on my truck. When monitoring the boost reading from the iQuad on my phone it reads about 3psi lower than my other boost gauge. I have a 0-60 Autometer elite, its not a junk gauge and has never been over pressurized since my truck is mostly stock so I would expect it to be accurate. Could this be a conversion thing with how the Iquad produces its boost number or a sign of a failing MAP sensor? Truck runs great no weird issues I have noticed just curious since if it is low all my fueling will be thrown down 3psi levels. Thanks

Was out doing some running around this morning and had to jump out in to some traffic and get down on the right pedal. I was thinking I had a stock truck but happened to look in right rearview mirror and noticed some (not a lot) of black smoke. Is this normal on a stock truck or is that an indication that there is a programmer on the truck? Also, once I was in the flow of traffic I noticed the MIL was on. I pulled the code when I got to work and it's a P0234 which I read could be MAP sensor, stuck WG or an actual overboost condition caused by a programmer. Is there a way for me to know if there is a programmer installed? Also, I called Dodge to price a MA…

So I came across a web link with some great information. I’ll leave a link below. This website tells you all about maintenance intervals and fluid amounts etc. I plan to change my diff gear fluid soon and I plan to use Scaeffers 75w140 gear oil. Iv heard talk about adding a friction modifier? I’m curious if anyone knows about this stuff and how much is needed per axle? http://www.cumminshub.com/5.9-24v-cummins-maintenance-schedule.html

Does anyone have a 4x4 locking /free hub/spindle kit on their truck? A guy's dodge truck in the shop has the yukon free spin kit installed. He said he gets better fuel mileage and he can feel the difference driving around I always thought about installing one of these kits. Cant remember what brand I was looking at

Hey everyone, New member here but long time reader, I recently bought another dually (lucky number 3) to replace my 2000 24v. Sorry in advance for the long post, just want to give all info Amazing truck and very well built, however.... i bought it and the abs module was unplugged, never really considered this a problem ( not a fan of abs) but im sure you all know that the speedodoesnt work without it and is a requirement for certification in Ontario. So i plugg the moduleback in, everything is fine...until it isnt, the truck began to stutter at various rpm (changed ECT Sensor) once i did that the "Stutter" was only in 6th gear at 2100rpm (had a comp box an…

Ok... Here you go ISX... My thoughts on dynamic timing is looking at something really simple. Like lets say you take your P-pump and set oh let say 16* BTDC and now the rest of the summer its great. bUt now you desided to come to Idaho this winter to visit me and the weather was -20*F. Chances are your truck will have a tough time starting because of the initial timing is too advanced. But why is that a 24V starts easy? Well I think it comes back to the IAT sensor and the ECM making a initial dynamic change at start up time to allow for starting then as the IAT starts to warm up with the ECT then the timing is re-adjusted to suit the conditions. But my grey area is the f…