2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm about to pull my engine out of the truck to clean it all up, reseal everything that is leaking and put in a new oil pan, and paint the whole thing 'apex red'. First thing is first though, have to pull the tranny. I have a little tranny jack for car transmissions, it wont handle the nv5600 though. So who has suggestions on a good jack that will make this easier???

Thnx for reading my thread fellas. I'm sure this will put your mind to work alittle... So I bought this truck 2002 4x4 built Auto AFe cold air, Edge comp, stock turbo & inj.... with bad no. 6 cylinder. Local shop pulled the motor and replaced piston, rings, rod, bearings.. etc only on the 6 cylinder all others looked real good.... Now truck smokes alot at idle.. and I have weird sound coming from the intake. I put 1200 miles on it and truck runs real well. Changed oil and filters yesterday and found out it consumed over 1.5 gallons of oil since only about a gallon drained out. Is that normal for a break in of one cylinder ( the hone did need a course hon…

just a quick question. has anyone seen or had dyno numbers with and without running an air filter. THIS IS FOR DYNO/TRACK PURPOSES ONLY!!!! i dont wanna hear how its stupid to drive around without a filter. almost everyone i see takes their filter off or always runs no filter on their setup for dyno/track runs

On some start ups it will blow some white/blue haze (smells like oil) smoke for a few seconds as the EGT rises. Also, if I sit and idle for extended periods, like 5min, when i continue driving it will blow the same color smoke as soon as my egt rises above 500-600. Once it burns the oil out, it doesn't come back, and the truck runs the same smoking or not. The truck runs fine, and uses some oil, but not much... Mabe a quart every 2500 miles at the most. i haven't actually measured it. I am wondering if I am getting excessive oil going down my exhaust valves, and coating the exhaust... either from worn guides or worn seals. I am going to have the rock…

Is there a 200 degree thermostat that I can put in my 2001 24 Valve? Can you post the link to one, or a part number? The region I'm in sees temps averaging between -15 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Opinions are always welcome!

what do uguys recommend for fuel additives?I see some of you use 2 cycle for its lubricating value but what about for the cold winter months to prevent gelling......all of them pretty much the same?I think they use a product called 911 at my work.Oh....and what do u think of stanadyne additives?

Ok, so I feel like I got burned by a cheap made in tiwan SKF output seal. Synopsis of my issue: 02 4x2 quad cab nv 5600 217,000k Tranny output seal started leaking and I had one bad u joint. All original equipment so I guess it's no surprise. So I figured I'll just do everything, new output shaft seal, all new u-joints and center bearing, change the trans lube & install trans Quad 4x4 filter kit as well as a 1/8" weld bung on the drivers side pto cover for a temp probe. Did all of the above, took for a 3 mile test drive & the output seal failed - popped out. Luckily didn't drive to far so I didn't lose all of the …

Just need a little help. Have an 02 Ram 3500 wont crank until it is placed on a battery charger with a start circuit or left on charge over night. I have replaced the batteries twice, left and right battery cables have been replaced, starter has been replaced, checked fuses and the relay they're all good, cleaned all ground connections put dielectric grease on them. At a serious loss on this. Starts fine if its been sitting on the charger overnight. Some days doesn't need the charger some it does. Have put a meter on the starter and when when the key is turned over there is no draw at the starter or batteries. batteries are both 12.7, 12.8. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 1998.5 dodge cummins I pull a 40 ft trailer with it runs good untill warm up then goes in limp mode has codes po743,po463,p1693,p1690 it only goes in limp mode on days that are 70 degrees or higher and will fix itself if temp outside drops below 70ish

Hey guys - I could use some help. I've done a ton of mods to this truck and I have two issues - plus I suspect I should be getting a lot more performance. 1. Very difficult to start in cold weather. If I don't have the block heater plugged in I get a ton of white smoke and it's very hard to start until the temp reading hits about 50. This is with the Edge set on level zero. Once it hits a certain temperature boom! It's like a light switch and it runs great though it still smokes (whitish) while the extra fuel burns off. Floor pedal does nothing until it runs, Edge says APP is reporting correct positioning. I can hear the grid heater go 'clu…

i just went out and fired up "Blue" (my truck) its about 8deg out and its gunna take a while to get her warmed up, so i was thinking, rather than a mechanical high idle mod, what if i put the engine under load? would there be a problem with simply applying the parking brake and dropping it into drive? (aside from having the vehicle running and in gear without anyone in it...... but i would be in it so that is a non issue, the only way i would consider leaving it unattended would be if there was a safer system or if i could devise a safer system other than the parking brake) seems to me it would warm up a lot quicker if it were under load and i think that would also solve …

Every new day brings a new discovery!! So today I destupided (it's the blond streaks I can't help it) and learned from this site, that I was exiting the turn key switch 3x trick do dump codes too soon, as a result I was missing out on all the fun of getting the 2nd code. I pulled 2 codes from the PCM I got a P1693 and from the ECU I got a P0230. Mind you, I was unable to pull these codes with any ODB2 scan tool. I've tried 3 different ones. I still can't pull either of those codes with and ODB2 scan tool, even with the connector disconnected. I followed these instructions and when I took off the connector, and I was super…

I did not use my apps and im thinking that's why my cruise stopped working. Is there a way to trick the ecm into thinking I still have an apps? Perhaps a resistor stuffed into the apps plug?

Seeking feedback, ideas, To install an exhaust brake (EB) with a non stardard method to control the EB. How?, leverage some functionality by adding micro switches, relay(s), tapping into the vehicle control modules. This is not the preferred setup and will require the operator or system design to replace the functionality of an electronic control box. Why? I have the brake itself, don’t have the expensive electronics. Thanks in advance, First Post Ever,.. Application: 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9 H.O. Cummins, 6 Speed Manual Trans. i figure a switch and string of micro switches that will turn the eb on/off could be…

I just found a leak on the rear of the head at the gasket. It leaks coolant but only when its cold. Once its hot it stops. Is there anything I can do to get a little more time out of it? Will it cause any damage to wait if I keep a close watch on it? Also should I have the head gone through when I have it off? Should I get head studs, and does someone have a kit with studs and all the gaskets? Thanks for any advice (192,000 miles)

Anyone heard of DFI (Ducky Fuel Injection) out of Arkansas? They have some 100 hp SAC injectors that i'm interested in trying. I have DAP 60s now and they're good, but I wan't a little more and would like to see how SAC injectors will do power and economy wise. DAPs smallest SAC is 125 hp, which might be hot for my current turbo, and my turbo upgrade is going to have to wait till next year, but injectors are budget friendly this fall!

Truck in question is a stock 99 with a 5 speed. Only mods are a fass lift pump and 1/2 inch lines. Like the title says the truck will idle fine and when you give it a bit of throttle it will jusm right to 1400. Nothing in between and nothing over. My ECM was starting to fail,,,found a good used one along with an injection pump from a cracked 53 block. Swapped it out today and still the same. Sort of seems like the APPs but my DRB3 reads the apps and it says it goes from 0 to 100 percent just fine. Any ideas... Thanks Chris

Hi, just joined the forum and this is my first tread.A week ago replaced my vp44 and upgraded lift pump to airdog2-165, did everything myself and truck started right after bleeding. I've been driving the truck since i got it back running and have noticed that the truck now takes longer to start. I've been searching the internet and haven't found an aswer to my problem, finally found this forum and any help would be appreciated.

Is it a good idea to retorque the head studs to over the factory specs? and can you pull the out of the head one at a time to oil the threads like i saw on a u tube video

Ok, so I been trying to search on this and I haven't found anything exact! truck was running perfect. 2 days ago pulled into drive way and got out of truck to run in house and white smoke barreling out of exhaust (ALOT)!! shut off truck restarted and same thing with really rough idle.. took it around the block slow acceleration boost is way late and constant white/grey smoke won't clear up even when turbo spools up, and popping out of exhaust at high rpm.. no codes with key trick pertaining to pump just 0500 and 0234.. odd thing to me from searching is no codes and it will fire right up everytime I start it. No CEL. I pulled the injectors Sunday took them apart cl…